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D14 power steering |
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 12:02pm |
I want to add power steering to my D14. I just looked at a non running parts tractor near by and it has definitely been well used unlike mine. My front end is very tight. Parts book shows the manual and power steering front support as the same part number. I looked at my support and it has a plug screwed into the areas where the power steering hoses should connect. I would rather keep my front support as the one on the parts tractor is worn. My question is am I looking at this correctly and could I just move the power steering parts over to my support?
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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Looking at the both tractors the front support have the same AM number. It looks to me the parts I would need to swap is the control valve assembly and associated tubing, Ram assembly, and the power steering pump. Both ports in my support have plugs in them. Remove to install the fittings that go in each port. Thoughts?
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20932 |
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Idler gear and shaft that connects the rack to the center swing arm gear.
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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Thank you Dr Allis, once I get the supports off of both tractors it should make it easier for me to see were those 2 parts are located. Am I correctly understanding that the rack turns the idler gear which then turns the steering gear? Just got my factory operator and parts manual today. I see those 2 parts in the breakdown. Still trying to locate a factory service manual. Really appreciate you helping me figure this out.
Edited by AC720Man - 02 Nov 2024 at 10:10pm |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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Got started by draining fluids, removing shroud and radiator this afternoon on my D14. Was able to make sure the plugs came loose which they did. Cleaned 65 years of dirt and debris from the support as well as some mice nest. Next step will be supporting the tractor as far forward as possible in order to remove the wide front.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20932 |
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You are going to a ton of work, that I feel will have little real benefit to getting power steering. Transfering over each and every part, especially the internal parts, is a lot of work. There are shims that must be dealt with and Orings and seals and bearings, etc. All you'd be gaining is using YOUR steering housing. For my time spent, I'd be using the whole used power steering front support ASSEMBLY as it is. Make sure there are no obvious oil leaks. Check the four Allen head bolts on the rack to be sure they are TIGHT. Compare center shaft spline wear where the swing arm goes on. Maybe swap that out if there is a better one and replace the shaft seal and Oring. I'd just not go thru all the aggravation of swapping everything over from one housing to the other housing.
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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I understand what your saying and realize it is a lot of work. Which bearings are you referring to? The shims I’m assuming your referring to is in the control valve? The leak from the control valve is most likely a seal in the rear cover. I shouldn’t have to get into the steering shaft area unless I’m missing something? No doubt it would be simpler to do the swap as a whole and I may end up doing that. I have several concerns, some that I will not know until I remove the support from the parts tractor. The parts tractor support leaks bad at the steering shaft so I know that seal has to be replaced. Mine doesn’t leak. Not a big deal to replace it while it’s off. Not sure of the condition of the front pivot pin but if the front is like the rear one it is flat worn out. The parts tractor has a lot of wear and has had a rough life. I’m just concerned that if I do a complete swap I may end up with a shimmy in the front end. It’s a non runner so I’m unsure of how it performed. Oil leak at the control valve so that has to come off to repair that area. It just seams if I have to remove parts to fix leaks I mind as well move them over to my support? The IT manual I have says the idler gear comes up from the bottom and drive the shaft in from the top, install the lock. I don’t like IT manuals but I haven’t been able to locate a factory service manual. I received an excellent condition owners manual today in the mail. May have to settle for a reprint. Maybe I’m over thinking this Dr Allis, I just want a good final result and know how tight the steering is on my support. As always I really appreciate your advice, your knowledge is priceless.
Edited by AC720Man - 02 Nov 2024 at 11:59pm |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20932 |
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The front pivot pin hole isn't on the front support housing. It is an attachment to the front housing. You can use your good one and still swap front support housings. Steering wheel input shaft seal can be dug out and replaced without removing the steering valve.
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Tim NH
Orange Level Access Joined: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Lancaster NH Points: 1101 |
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Robbie you can borrow my books. The one on the right gets into what you need. Text me your address. Tim |
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1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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Thanks Tim, sent you an email.
Dr Allis you are correct about the pin location. Not sure what I was thinking about. Removed dad’s front support on his D15 wide front a few years ago to rebuild the engine so I’m familiar with the process. Still undecided on what to do until I get the parts tractor torn down. |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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Finally got around to this project. Removed the PS front support from the parts tractor. Tore it down to inspect parts. It had quite a bit of water/oil when I drained the fluid. Found the upper steering sector bearing rusted to the steering shaft. Quite a bit of wear to the steering shaft/spindle arm. So I am going with my original plan to move the PS components over to my support. I have already removed the idler gear and PS components from the parts tractor support. I’m presently disassembling my support to move those components over to it. The PS components are in good shape and I have no reservations that they will work. Gaskets, seals, and a needle bearing have been ordered. My final expectations is a really good PS system and a tight front end.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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Finally getting back to this project, delays with weather(it’s cold in the shop with temps in the 10’s)machine shop, parts. Finally in the low 30’s. The swap has went well. New needle bearing for the control body shaft due to going from manual steering to PS. Removal of the bearing cup from the manual steering using my original front support. Front support is ready to go back on as of today. Hope to get it installed next week. One thing I found out is the IT manual states that the ram can be installed with the rack adjustment block removed and if pulled away from the idler pulley, it can be slid past the idler gear in the extended position. The person that wrote it apparently had never tried it. Spent an hour reading it over and over and it’s no way that can be done. Ended up removing the shaft retainer again, remove the steering shaft and gear assembly to allow the idler gear to be turned as I inserted ram rack. Put it all back together again and verifying proper steering of the ram and steering gear before putting the retainer back on. Just trying to save someone the headache if you ever find yourself in that position.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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Got this project back together but got to thinking if it needs to be primed? The suction tube makes it nearly impossible to do as it comes up a sharp curve from the pump and then a downward angle to the front support sump. Just doesn’t seam the pump would not be able to pump with no oil in it. Wide front end. Just seams like it would need oil in the pump to start the process? IT book doesn’t mention it. Thoughts…..
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20932 |
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Remove the suction tube/hose from the pump inlet and squirt some oil into the pump. Maybe hit the starter and crank slightly and squirt again. Attach the tube/hose and quickly fire up the engine with the front support already filled to the proper level. I ALWAYS use 821XL oil.
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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Yes sir, I have that type oil in the sump already. I run it in my D17 also. I will need to pull the right side frame rail off to do that but that’s not a big issue. And yes, drain the antifreeze and pull the radiator again. Haven’t installed the shroud yet so that also not a big issue. Glad I asked, just wish I would have asked a little sooner lol. Finally warmed up in my shop so I wanted to get it done today but it’s always good to pause and ask a question. Thank you Dr Allis
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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Well, the drama continues. Removed the radiator and side rail to gain access to the pump. Had to remove the entire sump line to gain access to the port. Pumped a few shots of oil in the sump port. I left the fuel turn off so the engine would not start beyond the fuel that was already in the carb. Using a flashlight to look in the port and then turned the key to rotate the pump hoping to suck in oil as Dr Allis suggested. After a very short run of the fuel in the carb the engine stopped, I shot more oil in and turned the key. I then noticed the gears inside the port were not turnin9g. I verified a second time. Removed the pump and getting a better view, the gears were not turning. When I initially pulled the pump from the parts tractor I rotated the main drive gear to make sure the pump was free. It turned easily so I was relieved the pump was free but I failed to peer into the suction port to verify the gears were turning. I proceeded to tear down the pump and much to my surprise it was very clean inside but the key to the drive gear was missing!! I disassembled this in an area that would have captured any parts from inside so I know the key didn’t fall out. I’m beginning to think maybe there was a previous issue and the key was removed or someone forgot to put it back in. The cap screws appeared to have been removed previously before I tore it down. Called SLI and ordered a key along with some new gauges I’ve been meaning to order. Kicking myself in the butt for not verifying the gears turning. Hope to have the key late next week. Gears look great as well as the housings and bearings. I don’t see any other issues at this point.
Edited by AC720Man - 13 hours 34 minutes ago at 9:55pm |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5027 |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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