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AC720Man 
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 Topic: Hardened bolts
Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 2:48am |
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I have a bolt broken off at my front weight bracket on my 160 that I am trying to remove. No luck with standard drill bits. Tried a carbide bit, it began to bite but stopped drilling about an 1/8” in. Assuming it lost its edge, brand new bit. I saw a video that the gentleman used a glass cutting bit to drill through a bolt on a JD tractor he was working on. Anyone have any experience with these or advise on what type of bit to use? If I can drill it out in steps I should be able to put a bolt through the frame rail with a nut on it instead of threading it. It’s a tight area but room for a nut on the back side. I rarely have any luck with easy outs.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DiyDave
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 4:50am |
Best way to get it out would be to mig weld a nut to the busted off stud, and turn out all of it. The heat generated usually loosens the locked threads... 
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 7:35am |
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I'd try a Hanson left hand bit
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 7:38am |
 DiyDave wrote:
Best way to get it out would be to mig weld a nut to the busted off stud, and turn out all of it. The heat generated usually loosens the locked threads... |
X2
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WF owner
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 8:31am |
I would love to take credit for this, but I actually got the idea from DrAllis.
Instead of welding a nut, first weld a washer (with a smaller inner diameter than the bolt), then weld a nut.
It works better than just welding a nut. |
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AC720Man
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 8:46am |
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Not sure I can weld a nut, had thought about it but the bolt broke off just inside the frame so very little room for a nut and to be able to turn it. 9/16” bolt so I would probably have to step down to a 3/8” nut.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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WF owner
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 9:23am |
Just an idea, but you might want to try welding a small nut, let it cool, then weld a bigger nut (two heat cycles).
Before you try to turn it out after welding a nut, crack it with a small sledge a few times.
I'm getting pretty good at getting broken off bolts out. It's not because of my knowledge. It's because I have made just about every mistake possible!
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 9:30am |
Rob, Threaded frame rail bolts I used to just take a torch with a fine tip and burn the bolt out without making to much of a mess. I would then drill the hole out to get rid of any slag and make the hole nice and round again and then install a bolt with a nut and lock washer on the inside. If you take your time, you won't make a mess. Torch tip has to be in good shape too! HTH.
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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HudCo
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 11:26am |
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is it broke off in cast iron ? if yes slobberit out with the torch if not sharpen a drill bit at a little differant angle and drill till it quits and change to a drill bit that is sharpened to the proper angle if you center punched it you will have to drill past the carbon you brought up . left hand twit will not do any thing unless its loose. their is no one fix for any brocken bolt you just have to attack till somthing works
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Model 70
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 12:40pm |
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Concrete drill bits work great for drilling out hardened bolts. With a hammer drill ,regular drill will not work.
Edited by Model 70 - 18 Jan 2025 at 3:55pm
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AC720Man
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 4:30pm |
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Thanks for the tips. Will give it a try next week some time. Supposed to be blue a$$ cold next week so I may have to wait a week. Single digit temps tend to keep me inside lol.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DougG
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 6:03pm |
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Heat is your best bet- bolts are different material and will melt- then chase out the holes- good to go
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 7:56pm |
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I use a stick welder and build it up to where it sticks out of hole. With 6013 it lites good. Blob,chip,blob,chip. When enough sticks out I clamp a vise grip on it and start wiggling with some PB blaster.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 11:57pm |
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I bought this from my best friend, he was second owner, me the 3rd and he said it was broke when he bought it in 1988. So it’s probably rusted in tight. Broke off a 1/4” behind the frame rail which makes this a tuff one to remove. That’s why it’s so difficult to get to. And I cannot access it from the other side enough to attempt to turn it. I would have to weld it on the inside of a nut, probably not enough room around it.
Edited by AC720Man - 19 Jan 2025 at 12:00am
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 19 Jan 2025 at 9:13pm |
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9/16 is plenty big to build up with weld. Could probably do that with wire welder and keep away from edges.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 20 Jan 2025 at 4:49am |
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I've heard of using carbon rods to build up worn out drawbar holes, I wonder if you drilled a hole in a carbon rod, then did a build up on the bolt, with the carbon bushing in place, whether that would work on bolt removal?
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 20 Jan 2025 at 7:01am |
HudCo wrote:
is it broke off in cast iron ? if yes slobberit out with the torch if not sharpen a drill bit at a little differant angle and drill till it quits and change to a drill bit that is sharpened to the proper angle if you center punched it you will have to drill past the carbon you brought up . left hand twit will not do any thing unless its loose. their is no one fix for any brocken bolt you just have to attack till somthing works |
I've gotten quite a few bolts loose with left hand bits but even it if doesn't work still better to be drilling to loosen a bolt left hand than drilling to tighten it right hand
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WF owner
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Posted: 20 Jan 2025 at 7:50am |
My experience with left hand drill bits is that you can sometimes loosen a bolt that was broken off by overtightening, but if a bolt was rusted and broken off trying to get it out, you may as well save your time using a left-hand drill bit. I never have any luck with easy outs on rusted bolts either.
One thing I find works on rusted bolts is hitting the head several times with a small sledge before trying to loosen. In this case, that isn't an option.
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Ray54
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Posted: 20 Jan 2025 at 11:49am |
Something about heating with the welding process gets the heat to the end of the bolt much better than a flame.
If and I realize a big IF. If the piece is in a location to where I can build up to a flat washer then a nut, I have gotten it out. Some have taken 5,6, even 7 times, but they came out and left threads that could be cleaned up. It also takes a lot of time to let it cool before trying to turn it out.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 20 Jan 2025 at 2:23pm |
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After welding, hold a bees wax candle against the hole, the wax wicks its way in, and lubes the threads...
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