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D14 power steering

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AC720Man View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 12:02pm
I want to add power steering to my D14. I just looked at a non running parts tractor near by and it has definitely been well used unlike mine. My front end is very tight. Parts book shows the manual and power steering front support as the same part number. I looked at my support and it has a plug screwed into the areas where the power steering hoses should connect. I would rather keep my front support as the one on the parts tractor is worn. My question is am I looking at this correctly and could I just move the power steering parts over to my support?
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 9:48pm
Looking at the both tractors the front support have the same AM number. It looks to me the parts I would need to swap is the control valve assembly and associated tubing, Ram assembly, and the power steering pump. Both ports in my support have plugs in them. Remove to install the fittings that go in each port. Thoughts?
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 10:30pm
Idler gear and shaft that connects the rack to the center swing arm gear.
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AC720Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 10:05pm
Thank you Dr Allis, once I get the supports off of both tractors it should make it easier for me to see were those 2 parts are located. Am I correctly understanding that the rack turns the idler gear which then turns the steering gear? Just got my factory operator and parts manual today. I see those 2 parts in the breakdown. Still trying to locate a factory service manual. Really appreciate you helping me figure this out.

Edited by AC720Man - 02 Nov 2024 at 10:10pm
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 10:20pm
Got started by draining fluids, removing shroud and radiator this afternoon on my D14. Was able to make sure the plugs came loose which they did. Cleaned 65 years of dirt and debris from the support as well as some mice nest. Next step will be supporting the tractor as far forward as possible in order to remove the wide front.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 11:08pm
You are going to a ton of work, that I feel will have little real benefit to getting power steering. Transfering over each and every part, especially the internal parts, is a lot of work. There are shims that must be dealt with and Orings and seals and bearings, etc. All you'd be gaining is using YOUR steering housing. For my time spent, I'd be using the whole used power steering front support ASSEMBLY as it is. Make sure there are no obvious oil leaks. Check the four Allen head bolts on the rack to be sure they are TIGHT. Compare center shaft spline wear where the swing arm goes on. Maybe swap that out if there is a better one and replace the shaft seal and Oring. I'd just not go thru all the aggravation of swapping everything over from one housing to the other housing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 11:45pm
I understand what your saying and realize it is a lot of work. Which bearings are you referring to? The shims I’m assuming your referring to is in the control valve? The leak from the control valve is most likely a seal in the rear cover. I shouldn’t have to get into the steering shaft area unless I’m missing something? No doubt it would be simpler to do the swap as a whole and I may end up doing that. I have several concerns, some that I will not know until I remove the support from the parts tractor. The parts tractor support leaks bad at the steering shaft so I know that seal has to be replaced. Mine doesn’t leak. Not a big deal to replace it while it’s off. Not sure of the condition of the front pivot pin but if the front is like the rear one it is flat worn out. The parts tractor has a lot of wear and has had a rough life. I’m just concerned that if I do a complete swap I may end up with a shimmy in the front end. It’s a non runner so I’m unsure of how it performed. Oil leak at the control valve so that has to come off to repair that area. It just seams if I have to remove parts to fix leaks I mind as well move them over to my support? The IT manual I have says the idler gear comes up from the bottom and drive the shaft in from the top, install the lock. I don’t like IT manuals but I haven’t been able to locate a factory service manual. I received an excellent condition owners manual today in the mail. May have to settle for a reprint. Maybe I’m over thinking this Dr Allis, I just want a good final result and know how tight the steering is on my support. As always I really appreciate your advice, your knowledge is priceless.

Edited by AC720Man - 02 Nov 2024 at 11:59pm
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 5:11am
The front pivot pin hole isn't on the front support housing. It is an attachment to the front housing. You can use your good one and still swap front support housings.  Steering wheel input shaft seal can be dug out and replaced without removing the steering valve.
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Tim NH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim NH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 11:39am
Robbie you can borrow my books. The one on the right gets into what you need. Text me your address.  Tim

1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 6:15pm
Thanks Tim, sent you an email.
Dr Allis you are correct about the pin location. Not sure what I was thinking about. Removed dad’s front support on his D15 wide front a few years ago to rebuild the engine so I’m familiar with the process.
Still undecided on what to do until I get the parts tractor torn down.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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