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Won’t stay running…

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Old School AC View Drop Down
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Joined: 26 Sep 2024
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Old School AC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Won’t stay running…
    Posted: 26 Sep 2024 at 8:38pm
I have an old d15, I believe it’s a 1962. The positive battery post touched and grounded the engine out…burnt the ground post off. I replaced battery end but now tractor won’t stay running. Runs for 1-2 minutes then shuts off. Any suggestions????
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep 2024 at 9:00pm
well with a shorted out battery cable, its probably not a fuel problem.. Electrical area... Coil , capacitor, starter key/ switch, wires...... When it dies, see if you have 12v at the COIL... if you do, then the battery / switch / key / wires are probably working right...

12v power to the coil , then check the FIRE at a spark plug.. If no SPARK, then you have a coil or capacitor or burn point problem... If you have NO POWER to the coil, then look at the key switch and the wire from the key to the coil.

--------One test is to take a jumper wire from the battery to the + terminal on the coil and then start the tractor.. That bypasses the key and wire harness to guarantee you have POWER to the coil.


Edited by steve(ill) - 26 Sep 2024 at 9:03pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep 2024 at 9:59pm
A model D-15 gas with a generator is a POSITIVE ground. So, how can the ground short out ??   Or, do you have an alternator conversion and now it is a NEGATIVE ground ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Old School AC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 9:16am
Yes it runs on gas. I have an alternator with a separate Solenoid. The solenoid positive end touched the frame and the negative end melted from the battery. Yeah, yeah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Old School AC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 9:23am
Thanks Steve, I will try it this morning to see what happens. I’ll reach back out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 hours 36 minutes ago at 12:46pm
once you get it going, you might find out the alternator has a problem... Solid state parts inside do NOT like shorts or sparks..... hope for the best.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Old School AC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 hours 13 minutes ago at 11:09pm
Can’t get it to run correctly. I don’t know if coil, points, or carburetor is needed. I have no idea.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 55 minutes ago at 6:27am
Original complaint was it only runs for 1 to 2 minutes and quits. Now, the complaint is you "can't get it to run correctly".  So does it now run all the time?? just not running smoothly?? or does it still quit every 1 to 2 minutes. Shouldn't be the carb because there wasn't any problem prior to the electrical meltdown, correct ???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Old School AC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 52 minutes ago at 8:30am
I changed the coil yesterday because while running a few minutes with the choke almost fully engaged coil was so hot, you couldn’t touch it with you bare hand. It will run for a few minutes with choke engaged but will sputter then die out. I did open the carburetor to clean it. Points, plugs, wires, starter solenoid, little white element that connects to coil? I don’t know which way to go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 47 minutes ago at 8:35am
that "littlel white element" that connects to the coil is not needed. That is a RESISTOR that lets you use a 6 v coil on a 12v tractor... Make sure your COIL says "12v with internal 3 ohm resistor", and then throw that little white thing away !




Edited by steve(ill) - 2 hours 43 minutes ago at 8:39am
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jvin248 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 2 minutes ago at 9:20am
.

Overheating coil indicates replacement is needed.

If a coil you get (scrounged from old bin) is poorly marked, you can use an ohm meter to measure the coil. 3ohm has the resistor block inside, low ohm has none and use the block.

External resistor block just like the external regulator cubes (instead of inside the alternator) just creates more connections to corrode over time.

If stuff got cooked, be sure and investigate wire runs and bundles. I just replaced generator wires on my WD since the insulation in a spot was so sketchy and the wires fragile. Then I found the main bundle was sketchy too and more wires. All running again though.


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