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Chgibson 
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Joined: 31 Aug 2024
Location: Georgia
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 Topic: D17 not staying running
Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 7:33am |
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Hi, i'm new here. I bought a d17 Diesel series 4 a few weeks ago, now it is starting up running about 1 minute then sputtering white smoke and choking then running rough for a few seconds then shutting off. After I bought it I changed all the fluids and filters and used it to brush hog about 4 acres over 2 weekends. The second weekend it started choking and dying at the end. Now it's running for about 1 min before choking white smoke stuttering and shutting off. Any ideas what might be causing this? Pretty new to diesel engines and looking to learn
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 7:43am |
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has the antifreeze level in the radiator dropped any ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Chgibson
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 7:54am |
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I think I over filled it a touch initially and it overflowed a bit but seems to be holding steady now.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 8:12am |
Diesel Engines Blowing White Smoke from ExhaustWHITE SMOKE occurs when raw diesel comes through the exhaust completely intact and unburned. Some causes of this include - Faulty or damaged injectors
- Incorrect injection timing (could be a worn timing gear or damaged crankshaft keyway).
- Low cylinder compression (eg caused by leaking or broken valves, piston ring sticking, cylinder and/or ring wear, or cylinder glaze)
When white smoke occurs at cold start, and then disappears as the engine warms up, the most common causes are fouling deposits around piston rings and/or cylinder glazing. Water entering combustion spaces will also create white smoke. Faulty head gaskets and cracked cylinder heads or blocks are a common cause of water entry, and are often to blame. Unfortunately, expensive mechanical repair is the only proper solution here.
Edited by steve(ill) - 31 Aug 2024 at 8:13am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Chgibson
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Location: Georgia
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 8:21am |
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Any good ideas for checking the injectors?
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DanielW
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Joined: 19 Sep 2022
Location: Ontario
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 8:31am |
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I'd be checking fuel flow from the tank before anything else. Very common on old tractors to have gunk come loose in the tank and partially block the tank outlet. Has enough diesel in the lines to run for a bit, but the restricted flow can't keep up once running. When shut off, the trickle of flow fills the lines back up. How hard is it to start once it dies?
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Chgibson
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 8:49am |
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It can usually start right back up basically immediately. How fast should it be flowing? I have a steady stream if I take the sediment bowl off. And if I take the nut to let the air out of the fuel filters off it flows out pretty steady.
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 10:19am |
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Most of the time this happens when the flex ring inside the pump starts to fail, it breaks down into small pieces and those pieces plug the return circuit. It causes the advance to go to full retard (causes the white smoke) and eventually slow to an idle and possibly just die off. The easy way to test this is loosen the 2 screws on the timing window of the pump and let it just send return fuel out there and into a bucket under the tractor. My bet is it will stay running like normal. if that's the case, your pump will be in need of rebuild.
Edited by injpumpEd - 31 Aug 2024 at 11:28am
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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8070nc
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Joined: 21 Mar 2019
Location: North Carolina
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 10:27am |
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Is the nut you ate talking about at the inlet to the injection pump
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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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Chgibson
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 3:16pm |
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That makes sense on the injector pump I will have to have that a try
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Chgibson
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 3:26pm |
This is what it sounds like for reference, running smooth at the beginning then rhythmic puff of smoke and chokes itself out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zDfv9Qeuex74L9wd7
Edited by Chgibson - 31 Aug 2024 at 3:26pm
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Chgibson
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 3:35pm |
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The nut is the air bleeder between the primary and secondary fuel filter
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8070nc
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Posted: 31 Aug 2024 at 3:45pm |
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The reason I asked that question is if you have good fuel flow at the inlet of the injection pump you have eliminated the entire fuel feed system as a problem
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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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Chgibson
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Location: Georgia
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Posted: 02 Sep 2024 at 12:29pm |
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Finally got back to it, ran it with the timing window to the pump open and it ran fine. So break down the pump and rebuild it?
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 03 Sep 2024 at 7:33am |
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Get it rebuilt by a competent rebuild shop. These aren't carburetors, where you just "put in a kit" lol! I rebuild lots of them in my shop and they run anywhere between 800 and 1000. Yea, some say, gee there's a $30 kit on ebay. lmfao! Good luck whichever route you go.
Edited by injpumpEd - 03 Sep 2024 at 1:54pm
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Chgibson
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Posted: 03 Sep 2024 at 10:56am |
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Is this something I should take to the local tractor mechanic or should mail of to someone who specializes in this? Sounding like this is not something I should tackle myself
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 03 Sep 2024 at 1:55pm |
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When one is coming to me, I offer some guidance in the removal and re-installation, which can be performed by most competent people.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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