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Early D17 power steering |
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8633 |
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Posted: 31 Jul 2024 at 2:05pm |
Friend of mine has an early D17. Mowing hay this morning, he said that the power steering quit working. Checked the fluid, it's above the gear. Said he pulled lines off, and it appeared to have pressure. But that's not a real accurate indicator, because amount of pressure is not known. I told him to jack the front end up, see how it steers then; check for like binding somewhere. Didn't know what else to tell him, as I have never worked D series power steering. He said that it is mostly just steering real hard, but once in a while it just gets jumpy, or intermittently working. Where's the next step he should take?
Thanks, Darrel |
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8633 |
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My bad, didn't see Ricky Ky's thread until now. Kind of same thing. Darrel
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8633 |
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So, my buddy just got back to me again after he did some more checking. He said that it steers hard to the left, and steers normally to the right. So taking information from the other thread on D17 power steering, I would seem that he has sheared a pin in the steering rack. Can anyone help us out with how in-depth of a fix that is? Thanks, Darrel
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20476 |
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Narrow front or wide front?? If a wide front, he should make sure the swing arm that the tie rods connect to underneath is free and not dragging on the front axle. If it seems to "power steer" to the right and hard back to the left, the steering rack pin has sheared off inside the front support. If both of these things are OK, I would yank off the pump and tear it down. There could be a woodruff key sheared off on the pump gears, which would allow it to make oil flow, but freely flow and never build any PRESSURE, which is required for power steering. If he wants to somehow get a 2,000 psi gauge plumbed into the pressure line from the pump to the steering control valve, that would be best to verify things, but I can have a pump off and stripped down in 60 minutes and it would take longer than that to make a pressure gauge capable test line.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20476 |
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Rack pin sheared requires removing the radiator and then the front support out from under the radiator. Pull the steering hydraulic cylinder off and you'll see what happened.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20476 |
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The rack must be "timed" when reassembling so it steers equal distances full right and full left.
Edited by DrAllis - 31 Jul 2024 at 3:38pm |
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8633 |
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Thanks Dr
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AC720Man
Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 4910 |
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I rebuilt the PS in my narrow front. New seals in the bolster, new gears, seals, pins in the PS pump. If it’s an early model driving off the generator make sure the output drive of the generator is in good shape as well as the pump. The connecting collar between the two is an issue. Over time they slip when worn. The collar/coupler is a shocking $95 part but it’s required if you want the PS to perform correctly. This will cause the issue he is having. That would be the first thing I would look for. Not that hard of a job to separate and inspect. My PS works well after I rebuilt it, just wear parts in these 60 plus year old girls starting to go bad.
Edited by AC720Man - 31 Jul 2024 at 4:41pm |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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