a few engine pictures....

 

One of these days I'll figure out how to do it, but the computer an I must come to an understanding first.

 

Thank You

 

 

My wife and I just had our first baby on Oct 24th.  I told here to pick out whatever digital camera and recorder she wanted for Christmas to replace her camera.  Hopefully when she gets it she can post pictures and video for me. 

 

Thank's

 

This is what a dumb farm kid does during the winter, I built it a couple years aoge I think 2003, ran it for a few years and it's sat now for a couple years.  Life got busy and time to run and work on the pulling tractor had to be set aside to concentrate on building a business, gathering acres and expanding the farm.  Now I've got good help, I've got some time and an itch to get it frreshened up.   My machines I use are all CNC, crank"n crank.  Nothing fancy but if you think about something for a bit, it turns out that it's not hard to make.  Nothing is impossiable but some things to take some time.

 

I was takeing my block up to get the deck trued up and get power honed so I thought I'd take a couple pictures.  When I get a few projects finished up and go to assemble the engine, I'll take some more pictures and post of the other items and how it all fits.

 

 It's just a mock up assembly but the main caps are cross bolted to the rails.  I made a billet timing cover, as the front main cap seals to the cover and a flat oil pan.  I run an oil pump at 1/2 crank speed bolted to the front main and driven from a cam gear that I machined.  The oil is then ported through the block with a bulkhead and to a filter/regulater base, back to the pan for return and to the original relief plug hole to pressure feed the engine.  I've got another set of lines pressure feeding the bottom of the main caps.

 

There is tie bars by the center main to pinch the block togather there as well as tie bars between the sleves.  The sleves are welded top and bottom to keep the top deck on.  We offset bored the block to the manifold side quite a bit.

 

I turned the crank snout for a fluid dampner from a chevy.  I made a billet steel flywheel, floater plate and run a twin disc clutch.  The crank is nothing special, just an offset ground old Leroi crank.  It's short and stout, stroke isn't much of a concern.

 

The carb is pictured next to a stock Gleaner E carb.  It's off a large Cont. 6 cyl engine and bored, thinned shafts, home made throttle plate at 2.25", etc. 

 

The manifold is built to a length I tuned to the engine, equill length runners put into a palrallel merge collector in rotational fireing order.  The tubes are a little over 40", the exhaust pipe is much smaller than one would think.   

 

Thi ignition is a GM HEI cut down to fit in the original distributer hole and swap the gear.

 

The head is a butcher job, it's a 3" head and holds some water.  Home made roller rockers, L shaped brackets on the end of the shaft going under an end head bolt.  Otherwise the shaft would bend to often.  Stud girdle and a home made tall valve cover.

 

We don't have any rules anymore, so a deck plate is just fine if needed.  The rules we did have were a OEM block and head, meaning no D17 stuff in a WC which is why I had to use the 201 parts.  BUt it kept the other colors in line also.  I got a lot of static with the old engine which ended up in a bucket one night, so I had to keep this one 100% legit parts.  Some boys do not like their big cube high $$$$$ engines beat.   Rule 2 was a single barrel updraft carb.  Those rules are gone now and I've been working on another engine on a late D17 block with a verry similar main berring assembly, a completly different head and cam.

 

I've got the neighbor working on getting some videos up, hopefully soon.  Trying to get a minute or two one made of a few runs, some 270-280  foot runs in the 14-18 second range and some 330 foot runs in the 24 sec range

 

You push any kind of power from a good block and it's going to crack anyway, why not just give up and use a junk one.

 

I am makeing a set of main caps for a Gleaner E block, if anyone wants a steel center main cap, I'll have an extra.  It would be cut to width to hold the thrust berring and the bolt holes, dowl pins will be cut in it.  You would have to trim the outer profile to whatever you wish and have your block line bored.  To make the main caps, I have to bore them, it's easier to bore 4 parts than 3, that's where the extra one comes in. 

 

I'll have a setup on a E block done soon so I'll get some pictures up.  Also some neat ones of some cylinder heads.