Hd6g starting problems

If you know how to use a multimeter, place on terminal lead end on the smaller terminal, (trigger, or enable and usually flat) and the other to ground. An infinite resistance indicates an open coil and the solenoid is bad. A resistance reading between 30 and 300 ohms and it is good and someplace else needs evaluated. This needs done with the trigger, or starter enable wire disconnected.

Another thing you can do and I want to stress is make certain that son of a bitch is in neutral first, then with a short length of wire, or screwdriver, short the terminal the battery lead affixes to and the small flat terminal the trigger, or starter enable wire attaches to. This bypasses any safety's involved and if the tractor is not in neutral, it will lurch forward if the starter turns. If the starter still does not operate, you either have a grounding problem from the starting batteries, battery voltage is not being routed to the starter solenoid terminal, or the solenoid is open electrically. If the later, remove all cables and wires from the starter solenoid. With an external 12VDC battery and set of booster cables, connect the positive booster cable end to the threaded stud the tractor battery cable normally attaches to. Attach the negative booster cable end to the starter motor case directly. Jumper, or short the two terminals mentioned earlier to ascertain solenoid condition. If it still does not respond, I would pull the unit from the tractor and send into a rebuild shop for reconditioning. I'm aware your system is a 24VDC system but this is a troubleshooting scenario and 12VDC will work to get a response from the starter. Doesn't have to start, just engage and respond. If you have good batteries in the tractor, you can use them with booster cables interconnected the same way except for 24VDC.

If you still get no response from the starter, you can as a final test jumper with your positive lead to the large threaded stud that enters the starter motor housing and is usually connected to the solenoid by a copper strap. This will bypass the solenoid spinning the motor itself and won't slip the drive into the flywheel ring gear.

Given you mention there is no response from the starter solenoid, I really don't think the starter motor suspect at this writing. No proof but suspect your problem is upstream of the starter motor.

Some of this you've been through already I know. Don't forget, or miss the basics involved.

 

Can't stress enough the importance of clean grounds and terminations. Nature of the beast in electrical work.

I too always have both heavy supply cables running directly to the starter motor and/or assembly itself; #2 at a minimum up to 2/0 dependent upon application. 

Jhilton69 wrote: Sorry forgot no it didn't click or spin just watched the numbers drop to zero on the meter. Ya she got a new senolid. While the senolid was off I did move the plunger back and forth with ease. Just to see if it may have been bound up.

Dropping the voltage down to zero without the solenoid clicking in would seem to indicate either an excessively high resistance somewhere in the circuit, or an exceedingly weak battery. Let’s see if we can narrow it down a bit.

First, do a voltage drop test on each battery, one at a time. Place the voltmeter leads directly on the terminals, you should see nearly 13 Volts. Attempt to crank and note the voltage. If the starter doesn’t spin, a good battery shouldn’t drop any voltage at all. Test both batteries the same way.

Next, do a voltage drop test on the cable that connects the two batteries together. Again, place the leads directly on the battery terminals, it should read Zero Volts. Attempt to crank and note the voltage, it should stay right at Zero or very nearly Zero.

Then, do a voltage drop test across both batteries at the same time, but NOW, place the voltmeter leads on the cable terminals, unless you can access the actual copper wire strands, which is even better. You should see near 26 Volts. Attempt to crank and note the voltage.

Now, do a voltage drop test on the cable going from the battery to the starter. Place the voltmeter lead on the hot terminal of the battery and the other on the big terminal on the solenoid. Attempt to crank and note the voltage. It should be Zero or very nearly so.

Finally, do a voltage drop test through the ground circuit. Place one voltmeter lead on the negative battery terminal and the other lead right on the starter itself. It should read Zero Volts. Attempt to crank and note the voltage, it should stay right at zero or very nearly so. 

I am assuming the system is negative ground.

Jhilton69 wrote: It's a positive ground system

Doesn't matter, just reverse your voltmeter leads to the appropriate polarity. If you are using a digital meter you don't even need to do that as it will simply read negative values. Analog meters object to reverse polarity though when the needle tries to move to the left.