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Gleaner K vs K2 |
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dertz19
Bronze Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 88 |
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Posted: 03 Jun 2024 at 2:03pm |
Will a 3-row 330 corn head from a K fit on a K2? i.e Do they use the same mounting arrangement?
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AC7060IL
Orange Level Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3340 |
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dertz19, Yes ~ might require some additional things? Please share some more info. Is 330 an orange or a black frame? What serial# is the K2? Does K2 have double sprocket (25t-13t) header drive ?
Edited by AC7060IL - 03 Jun 2024 at 5:15pm |
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dertz19
Bronze Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 88 |
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Good questions! To which I don't know many of the answers.
I drove 6 hours Sunday to look at this nice K2 with a 12' soybean header. Of course on the drive home, I started thinking of all kinds of things I should have looked closer at- including the throat-to-header situation. I am aware of the challenges in finding 330 corn headers for the K series. I presently use a '68 G, so I am familiar with the 4 hooks on that arrangement for a corn head. This K2 is a corn-soybean special. I'm guessing early in the 2 series- it has a manual hopper auger, the seat in the cab is solid black. There is one drive sprocket on the throat for the header. As I suspected, I think the answer to my question about the corn header is "maybe, but it depends", which is what I wanted to know. Thanks! |
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AC7060IL
Orange Level Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3340 |
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Allow me to better explain in detail & why I asked about more info. I have seen many K & K2 combines with a complete older (1960s) header small 4 hook setup. Meaning they contained upper "outer pin lock plates" with a corresponding "spring pins tube installed) that were added to the "upper" front of their threshing throat(housing) making them useful for either gleaner cornhead color. Gleaner engineered usually did a great job of manufacturing machines for a longer customer continuity via multiple era attachment(headers,etc). ALL of the K2 combines(1977-1981) were manufactured with "upper slots" machined into their front threshing housings(throats) to allow for older headers. The earlier 1977/78 K2 models usually contained additional "outer pin lock plates" factory installed(welded in) & possibly an upper spring pin tube. The 1979-1981 K2 models usually did not contain the "outer pin lock plates" or accompanying spring pin tube. But if farmer wanted, this prior era setup could easily be completed thru dealership parts counter & repair shop for some welding on this "outer pin lock plate." In short, a farmer could keep/run their older orange cornhead or opt to upgrade to a newer 1977 debuted black cornhead? Additionally, these older "upper slot/pins" won't obstruct a mounted black cornhead which uses that cornhead's newer "upper larger over the top pipe hooks" which ALL the K(1969-1976) & K2 have an "upper Pipe" attached onto their top front of their threshing housing(throat) to accept newer black cornheads. I never ran an orange head, but guessing the 13t header drive sprocket drove it?? The double sprocket 25t-13t may be found on salvage yard K, K2, F, F2 machines. It is not difficult to remove/install if you use a puller tool. Counter shaft where it resides is tappered & keyed. Hope this helps?
Edited by AC7060IL - 05 Jun 2024 at 1:39pm |
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dertz19
Bronze Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 88 |
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Fabulous- This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for!!
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im4racin
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jun 2017 Location: Garrison ND Points: 931 |
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You could also use a corn head off an E. I have a k 238 on my E. Just have to add the tube to the feeder housing
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tbran
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3291 |
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As 7060 states - orange heads had 13 tooth drive sprockets - black 330's had 25-13 double sprockets tapered bores - some of the earliest K still had square non tapered sprockets which will not concern this swap - The orange K-F 330 heads had an offset drive bracket as the throat sprocket was too narrow to go direct and had to have a jackshaft for alaignment. ( we bypassed that by bolting a 13 tooth OEM drive sprocket to the hub sticking out with longer studs.)
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