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190xt clutch noise |
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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Hello I have recently acquired a 190xt it been a good tractor but recently when you let off the clutch right when it engages it makes a growing/howling sound but then goes away after the clutch engages as well as is there a way to adjust the power director to keep the tractor from creeping when in neutral or is this related to the sound? Thank you any advice is appreciated.
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jdeere562 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 02 Oct 2023 Location: SW Iowa Points: 24 |
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Sounds like a release bearing going bad.
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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Jdeere562 do you know if that would be quite the project to fix or other ways to test this I am only a high schooler so just trying to learn and hopefully get a good tractor out of it thanks
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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I did not mention that occasionally the transmission will not shift as in the clutch dose not seem to do anything in slowing the gears at all don't know if this info is helpful
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19716 |
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When you depress down fully on the clutch pedal and the transmission gears continually want to "grind" to try and shift into gear (like they don't stop rotating) that generally means the foot clutch is nearing the end of its service life. There are broken pieces of the clutch disc floating around inside the clutch disc cavity that are causing this. The clutch engagement noise you hear can also be related to the same problem. Power Director clutch creeping in neutral is NORMALLY a cold oil thing and that's the way they can be. Could be a problem, but also maybe not anything to be concerned about.
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 4750 |
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Replacing the throw out bearing and clutch requires the tractor to be slit in half. My 190 works best to be at idle, depress the clutch fully and pause for a few seconds before shifting into gear. If it grinds at all do not force it into gear, allow the clutch to fully disengage before attempting again. If the previous owner continued to grind the gears it will become a gear jumper meaning the transmission will jump out of gear going down a hill which is very dangerous while having a load behind you.
Edited by AC720Man - 25 May 2024 at 6:40am |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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jdeere562 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 02 Oct 2023 Location: SW Iowa Points: 24 |
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DrAllis Answered your question better than my reply.
Whatever it is in there, the tractor will need to be split between the engine and clutch housing. And like he said, the power director will creep with cold oil.
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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Ac720man yes I normally do pause before shift like any of out other tractors but even after minutes it still grinds
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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Drallis That is probably so because after shut off or sitting for a while the clutch will slow/stop the gears just fine. I will start preparing to split the tractor this weekend and will report if I find any issues
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8074 |
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If that tractor uses a actual bearing for pilot brg and it it froze or stiff it will tend to continue turning clutch shaft making it hard to engage
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Mikez ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Jan 2013 Location: Usa Points: 8190 |
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Welcome to the forum.
Your location says wi. Look up A&W tractor for help finding parts.
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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Mike thank you very much for the advice just need to start tearing into this thing and see what's going on
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Mikez ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Jan 2013 Location: Usa Points: 8190 |
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Also buy yourself a parts book and service manual.
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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What would be the best way to support the rear end I have a plan to build some legs for the motor side on casters but don't really have a good idea on supporting the platform side
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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Mike I do have a parts manual but I do need to look into a service manual
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jdeere562 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 02 Oct 2023 Location: SW Iowa Points: 24 |
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I've split them before with a big block and hydraulic jack under the back end. Then supported the torque housing with a heavy duty metal sawhorse, shim as needed on top with wood boards. Not fancy, but it worked.
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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Thank you I got it split but who knew the hard part would be trying to post the pictures
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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Dr allis the clutch you were referring to would be the one on the flywheel correct? Thank you all for the help
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19716 |
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Yes. The foot clutch. A proper clutch job includes a new clutch disc, reman pressure plate, new throwout bearing and new pilot bearing, rear crankshaft seal and wear sleeve, a new clutch shaft seal and gasket. Machine flywheel to 1.437" depth. Use a long dowel on one hole of each side frame to split it and keep the engine weight on the stud.
Edited by DrAllis - 26 May 2024 at 11:24pm |
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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The flywheel seems good no scratchs that I can catch with my finger nail. How dose one disassemble the pilot bearing and sleave as you said
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19716 |
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Were there small pieces floating around inside the clutch disc cavity or not ?? Rear crank seal and wear sleeve require removing the flywheel from the engine. You're complaining about a noise when engaging the clutch. Machining the flywheel to spec will take care of that with a new clutch disc. if you don't machine the flywheel you might still have the noise. Good luck. Do it however you want.
Edited by DrAllis - 27 May 2024 at 7:04am |
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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I think i will remove the flywheel and get it machined. The clutch mat was worn heavily almost to the rivets aswell as the pilot bearing being worn and having alot of play. Is that bearing pressed on the cast there or what is the trick to removing it. Thank you
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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Where do you recommend for getting the flywheel machined.
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Mikez ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Jan 2013 Location: Usa Points: 8190 |
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Did you look up a& w tractor. How far away are you from him are you
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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Hour and a half so not too bad
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Mikez ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Jan 2013 Location: Usa Points: 8190 |
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I don’t want to speak for him but he’s vary helpful. Give him a call. His business is fixing and parts for these tractors. I would assume he could point you in a direction of good machine shop for flywheel and would probably have all the parts needed
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Robertschmitz1086 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2024 Location: Berlin wi Points: 16 |
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I will definitely give him a call thank you all for the help I couldn't of done it with out some guidance
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