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D19 Hydrolic pump |
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Tim Gregory
Bronze Level Joined: 21 Feb 2024 Location: Indiana Points: 4 |
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Posted: 21 Feb 2024 at 9:45pm |
I have a 1964 D19. It has a "Freeman 3000" front loader. Yesterday, as I was raising the bucket, something in the tractor went "clang" and the engine choked out. Tractor runs with the clutch pushed in but when the clutch is released, the engine drags down and dies. Looking into the hydro fill hole shows that the fluid is not circulating. If it is the pump gone bad, which I think it is, do I have to split the tractor to get to the pump?
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DiyDave
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 51775 |
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Fraid so, if the pump cam shaft is affected. You can determine by dropping the pump compartment's pan, removing the pump, to see what has grenaded. About a 4-6 hr job, IIRR... When it happened to ours, one of the cam follower bearings broke out, gouging a lobe or 2. Was able to wrap emery cloth around the cam, and have someone bump the starter, while I sanded out the cam lumps enough to remove the worst of the damage...
I don't know about parts availability now, as this happened 40+ years ago, to ours. Good luck...
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Lon(MN)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Elk River,MN Points: 1976 |
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I have a torque tube complete without a pump I would sell.
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http://lonsallischalmers.com
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20582 |
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Time for an engine driven front pump if there's room for it.
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captaindana
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fort Plain, NY Points: 2464 |
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Yup Doc called it. My 19’s pump was inop when I got her 20 years ago. I remove the guts and installed a front pump that someone on here sold me for 60 bucks. Hasn’t missed a beat.
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Blue Skies and Tail Winds
Dana |
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Tim Gregory
Bronze Level Joined: 21 Feb 2024 Location: Indiana Points: 4 |
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Kinda leaning to that front pump option. Any chance you could post a picture of how it would be installed?
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DiyDave
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 51775 |
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Scroll down to the Ebay link in this thread: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/d14-hyd-pump-drive_topic199902.html
May not be the exact kit you would need, but the mounting will be much the same. You still need to pull the junk out of the torque tube, and check to see if that cam is broke, or if there is anything else amiss...
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Tim Gregory
Bronze Level Joined: 21 Feb 2024 Location: Indiana Points: 4 |
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Is the hydro pump behind this plate?
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20582 |
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No. The pump sticks out from the front of the plate. On a D-19 there is a void behind the sheetmetal/grille where I think the pump can fit.
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Nathan (SD)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Day County SD Points: 1262 |
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The D19 front hyd pump setup is different. It uses a flexible shaft to drive the pump. Eldon (WA) I believe posted pictures of his years ago if someone can dig them out of the digital bowels.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20582 |
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I believe that was to get it tucked in behind the sheetmetal. It should be able to be done with the chain coupler style but haven't seen one in a while.
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Stan R
Orange Level Access Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Location: MA Points: 960 |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20582 |
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To locate an "original" OEM front pump ( about 5 to 6 GPM) I believe would be impossible. It was specifically made to fit in the very tiny space behind the grille. Besides, all the other A-C front loader pumps (pump always the same) were in the 10 to 12 GPM range, double the GPM's of this D-19 specific front pump. This higher pump flow rate allows the engine to be operated at half throttle or less and still have good loader boom/bucket power and speed, while increasing foot clutch life.
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