| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
KY D-17 
Bronze Level
Joined: 07 Jan 2024
Location: Onton, KY
Points: 39
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: D-17
Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 8:58pm |
1)
I am looking at a D-17 that is in an upcoming
Auction. Serial # D17 82491. An old book I have indicates that it is a
Series IV manufactured in 1966, does anyone have any information to confirm
that or have other information? Decals
are badly faded but I can’t see a Series IV decal.
2)
It has a Gas engine, has oil in the antifreeze
(radiator), tires are not flat but badly cracked and generally bad, oil leaks
on both sides of the plenum / bull gear in the rear, oily dirt all around the
hydraulic thing just above the only remote, paint is awful, looks rough but tin
looks pretty good, has 5,3_ _ hours showing.
It will start and run. Give me your wild guesses of what you think it
is worth.
3)
And, what would a fully restored D-17, with low
engine hours sell for (both Gas and Deisel)?
What would it cost for a remanufactured engine or a machine shop
overhaul cost?
4)
Are the Diesels hard to start?
5)
If anyone has a restored D-17 they would sell, send
me pictures, tell me about it and what you would take.
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
DaveKamp
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5754
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 1:09am |
"
what would a fully restored D-17, with low
engine hours sell for (both Gas and Deisel)? "
NO tractor will ever sell for more than the highest bidder could justify. Extrapolate that out to say that... someone who's interested in a fully restored D17 is not looking to purchase one to take it out into the field and work... because they don't need something in a 'restored' price range, in order to pull a plow, right? Instead of buying a restored tractory, someone who wants a workhorse will buy the well-worn one, and give it a meticulous OVERHAUL... and along the way, make improvements to suit their intended work regimen.
You're a unique breed in that most collectors don't go looking for a fully-restored tractor... they look for one that needs restoration, and they RESTORE it.
All that said the D17 Series IV usually demands the highest price, because it has full live low-pressure/high volume hydraulics, and easy option of a 3-point. Most Series IVs will bring twice what a Series 1,2 or 3 will sell for, simply because the hydraulics and 3point put it in a work category equivocating modern utility tractors of today. A brand new open-station 50hp tractor with live hydraulics and a 3-point will easily break 20k... an overhauled D17 Ser IV at 10K is a bargain, right?
Tractors with bad tires or bad engines, or bad clutches, bad transmissions, or bad finals don't bring as much as those with good rubber, fresh overhauls, and a fully working set of controls, gauges, etc., but the LOCATION for such a machine frequently has more bearing on price than any of the other aspects.
|
|
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
|
|
WF owner
Orange Level
Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4663
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 7:36am |
I agree that it is a 1966. The biggest thing to think about is worst case scenarios with every problem the tractor has and the cost to fix it. You say it has oil in the radiator. Everyone that has never worked on an AC 226 will tell you that it's probably the head gasket, but, in reality, I have never seen a head gasket problem on the 226. I am thinking more that it has been overheated at some point and you have a cracked head or block. New rear tires are going to be expensive and I am betting that the rear rims will need some repairs once you get the tires off. Unless you can drive it, you are going to have no idea about the transmission, power director, hydraulics, etc. Brakes are often bad and need repair, which you might want to do if you are fixing the rear end leaks anyway. Little parts (points, plugs, condensor, wires, muffler, hoses, belts, etc.) can run into a lot of money. Generator, starter, radiator may also need repairs. I am betting that a completely rebuilt 226 engine would be $2500 - $3000 for parts, labor and machine work. Maybe more... To answer your question on value, I would say $1000, maximum, and plan on another $4000 in tires and parts, plus a lot of hours of labor.
Edited by WF owner - 09 Jan 2024 at 7:42am
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20479
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 8:01am |
|
Motor oil in the radiator is an almost absolute impossibility on a G-226 engine. There are no oil galleys in the block or the cylinder head. I'd think someone has accidentally dumped oil in the radiator or the coolant has had "soluble" oil (water pump lube) added, which back in the day was a common maintenance item on older engines like that. There could be the possibility of bad sleeve Orings, but you'd have coolant in the oil too if that was the case. Makes no difference if you're going to overhaul it anyway. New sleeves and pistons solve that issue.
|
|
KY D-17
Bronze Level
Joined: 07 Jan 2024
Location: Onton, KY
Points: 39
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 8:22am |
Your post is extremely helpful. I did not know the difference in a Series IV (better hydraulics and more 3-point hitch friendly, etc.). Your $5,000 estimate and the cracked head or block is also in line with my wild guess. Your comments about the Series IV will make me pay a little more but I doubt others will look at it as closely as I have. And, I forgot to tell you it has wide front end, homemade 3-point hitch, and the radiator is leaking. More bucks, right! But I don't play golf and have paid employees who can help me work on it. I am going to check on what a fully remanufactured engine would cost. What do I ask for other than an AC D-17 engine? it must have a 226 cubic inch engine form your answer above? is the engine in all the D-17's, though the Series IV the same? If the block isn't cracked i will deal with that. Does it have sleeves, and can you replace them and the bearings in frame or do you have to take the engine out? I would still be interested in a restored model even if it buy this one. I am pushing 80 and still work in an office part time and still have the family farm with a nice shop. Surprisingly, if I buy a restored D-17 I would still use it to do light work, I just enjoy operating them. My father bought a new D-17 Series III, and I drove it more than the later tractors he bought. I really like the sound of it. He also had a WD 45 Diesel that I barely remember but I think it was hard to start in the winter. I have old John Deers, Internationals, and a David Brown 990, but no Allis Chalmers. I live in Kentucky just south of Evansville Indiana. TJ PS. Could someone tell me how to Print these posts?
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20479
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 8:43am |
|
Don't start looking for another engine until this one is out of chassis and all apart and inspected. If it is beyond repair, you want a "G-226" engine from another D-17 tractor or a Gleaner model "E" combine. Engine block s/n must be above 17-24001 to be new enough. Wet sleeves, yes. Totally rebuildable and must be out of chassis to do so. You do NOT want a "W-226" from a WD-45 tractor !!!! NOT THE SAME ENGINE !!!
|
|
WF owner
Orange Level
Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4663
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 8:58am |
There were W226 and G226 engines. The D-17 used the G226, which had bigger main and rod bearing journals. Someone that knows more than I can chime in, but I believe there was an evolution of different blocks used for both engines. Sleeves, pistons, cam bearings and other parts were common to both engines. Main and rod bearings were different for the W226 and G226. Both engines have wet sleeves, which are relatively easy to change with no machining. You talked about cracks in the block. Cracks between cylinders is very common in these blocks and not usually a problem unless there are cracks in the bottom end. As far as printing the post, my recommendation would be to "copy and paste" to a Word (or something similar) document.
|
|
Scott B
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2013
Location: Kansas City
Points: 1030
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 9:00am |
I sold a 1966/67 gas D17 series IV last spring for an elderly friend of mine. Husband had passed and it had sat out for a year or two. One rim was bad and leaking, tires weren't the best. Did have 4 slab weights with brackets. No leaks. It was an hour away from me, didn't have any electrical for tools or time so couldn't get it running. Sold it for $4,500. Guy that bought it replaced the gas tank, cleaned carb and new distributor...had it going in 3-4 days. Good luck.
|
|
D17 Series 1
Allis B- 1939
Allis B- 1945
|
|
KY D-17
Bronze Level
Joined: 07 Jan 2024
Location: Onton, KY
Points: 39
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 9:06am |
Again, thank you all. Anyone know of an Allis Club near Evansville Indiana or Western Ky? TJ
|
|
KY D-17
Bronze Level
Joined: 07 Jan 2024
Location: Onton, KY
Points: 39
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Jan 2024 at 5:01pm |
Are the D-17 Series IV brakes Manual or hydraulic (poser) TJ tjfridy@gmail.com
|
|
WF owner
Orange Level
Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4663
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Jan 2024 at 5:10pm |
|
They are manual. When you step on the brake, it activates a band around a drum. inside the drums there are balls that expand the drum, which are similar to disc brakes except the discs expand outward, instead of squeaking like conventional (hydraulic) disc brakes.
Edited by WF owner - 10 Jan 2024 at 5:11pm
|
|
WF owner
Orange Level
Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4663
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Jan 2024 at 5:17pm |
The brakes are the same as a 180. Here is a video that explains it a lot better that I did.
|
|
