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Baler Suggestions for 185 |
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cguetter
Bronze Level Joined: 13 Sep 2023 Location: MN Points: 4 |
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Posted: 13 Sep 2023 at 8:14am |
Anyone have any suggestions on what kind of round balers I can run with my 185? Mainly ditch hay baling some flat pasture and possibly cornstalks. Thank you
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8633 |
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I can tell you from experience that a 5X6 round baler is just a little too big for a 185.
Darrel |
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KJCHRIS
Orange Level Joined: 21 Dec 2015 Location: WC Iowa Points: 899 |
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Find baler that has built in hydraulics and a control box, only need a PTO and 12 volt power from tractor. They cost more but are nicer to operate.
I Hired a guy with a 5x4 baler to bale 1 year, 3 cuttings on 30 to 40 acres, that's too many trips hauling bales, both out of field and to cows in winter.
We ran Ver Meer 605C and 605F balers (6' x 5' bale) with our 180 & 185's in the Loess hills of western Iowa. The earlier balers are plain and simple, not a lot of tin work allowing hay/chaff to hide and collect so less likely to catch fire. You need only 1 set of remotes on 605C as it's manual tie (rope) and 2 sets of remotes on a 605F as it has hydraulic tie. We made 700 to 1000 alfalfa/orchard grass bales a year 20+ years. You'll want at least 400 lbs added weight on each rear tire and maybe front weights if you're in hills. |
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AC 200, CAH, AC185D bareback, AC 180D bareback, D17 III, WF. D17 Blackbar grill, NF. D15 SFW. Case 1175 CAH, Bobcat 543B,
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KJCHRIS
Orange Level Joined: 21 Dec 2015 Location: WC Iowa Points: 899 |
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You'll have issues with older models baling corn stalks unless the pickup is setup for them and then it won't like baling grass hay or straw.
At least that's what my renter and I decided. His newer JD does both well after changing the pickup speeds. His JD 530 and my Ver Meer 605F didn't like corn stalks but were very good hay machines.
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AC 200, CAH, AC185D bareback, AC 180D bareback, D17 III, WF. D17 Blackbar grill, NF. D15 SFW. Case 1175 CAH, Bobcat 543B,
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Ky.Allis
Orange Level Joined: 31 Jan 2010 Location: Kentucky Points: 1002 |
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You will get a more realistic recommendation if you say how much you want to spend.
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DanielW
Bronze Level Joined: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Ontario Points: 165 |
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A general rule would be: Any 4X4 baler, Most 4X5 balers, Some 4X6 balers, probably no 5X6's.
But there will be a lot of variables, and some exceptions. Deere, NH, and Vermeer are the three big round baler manufacturers. Deeres are great units, but in general pull just a little harder than most others. Some of that has to do with them being built a little heavier: On flat land you might not notice much difference, on really steep hills you might notice a lot of difference. Another part of how hard they pull is how fast they're geared. Most newer balers (especially Deere's and NH's) are designed to really boogey, and they're thus geared faster and take more HP to pull. Some balers (a lot of Vermeers are like this) have standard roller chain sprockets as their main drive sprocket - you can replace it with a sprocket with one or two fewer teeth, slowing it down a little and being able to run it with less HP. Vermeer's always been known for getting the most done with least HP. Some of their models (like the 504's, 5410's) are great balers and can make full-sized bales at decent speeds with 40-50 HP. I can't comment too much on newer balers, but I run an older Vermeer 504G (4X5) with my 180 gas just dandy - it hardly even notices it back there. If looking at newer Vermeers, it's hard to go wrong with the 5410 series: They make 4X5 bales with minimal HP requirement. The 180 would probably handle any 504 as well. If looking at 504's, I'd look for an 'I' series or later: The G's like I have are great balers, but getting a little long in the tooth and don't like cornstalks. The Deere 30 series or later are great balers, but heavy and geared faster. At one of our farms we ran a Deere 435 (4X5) with a Ford 5000 with a rebuilt engine (65 HP - very comparable in size and HP to the 185). You'd have to go slow sometimes and watch the temp gauge around our steep hills on hot days, but it did the job ok. On flat land it probably would have been fine. We later ran it with a Ford 6600 (70 HP), which allowed us to travel at faster speeds and not worry about overloading the tractor except on the steeper hills. We now run it with a 105 HP White and it doesn't know it's back there. If I were looking for a used baler for a 185 on flat land, I'd probably give equal preference to comparable Deere, NH, and Vermeer 4X5 models, and let condition be more of a deciding factor than brand/colour.
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2915 |
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4x5 or 4x6 are more common now becasue they are easier to stack double wide on a wagon or semi trailer and drive down the road. You've got 1' or more hanging off each side with a 5" wide bale
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8633 |
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Don't shy away from a smaller sized Hesston/Challenger/Massey baler. They are very good balers too
Darrel |
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Gary Burnett
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 2939 |
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A lot of people don't like them but I run New Holland 851 balers,make about a 5 1/2 X 5 1/2 bale my 185 pulls it with ease even on some very hilly/steep land I make hay on.The Oliver 1650 less HP than the 185 also pulls it no problem.
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Tom59
Bronze Level Joined: 27 Feb 2021 Location: Lebanon Tenness Points: 150 |
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I think a John Deere 535 round baler would be a good match behind your AC 185 tractor. I knew a guy that had the same outfit back in the nineties, used the 185 till he brought a John Deere 6310 cab tractor. Only problem I see is baling cornstalks with the JD 535 you be putting new teeth on it the next spring and maybe a few new stripper bands also.
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cguetter
Bronze Level Joined: 13 Sep 2023 Location: MN Points: 4 |
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions
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Trinity45
Orange Level Access Joined: 17 Mar 2014 Location: Kentucky Points: 1684 |
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We ran a JD 635 which is a 5 x 6 with our 185 no problems for years.
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cguetter
Bronze Level Joined: 13 Sep 2023 Location: MN Points: 4 |
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Im looking at getting a JD 530 twine round baler with auto tie. My 185 should handle that right? Anyone have thoughts or concerns with them?
Also this is my first time baling on my own and with a tractor that doesnt have an independent PTO so how do you guys bale with with tractors like these? Just wondering for when the bales tying and when you unload bale when the clutch stops the tractor and PTO simultaneously.
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DSeries4
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7332 |
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That is what the hand clutch is for...
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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victoryallis
Orange Level Joined: 15 Apr 2010 Location: Ludington mi Points: 2876 |
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For one I wouldn’t get a twine baler no matter how cheap it was. Lady in the neighborhood had her neighbor make her hay well they had a falling out at and the neighbor doing the baling sold his baler out of spite. That got me roped into this. The lady was nervous and hired me and another guy to bale so it would be done before it got rained on. I could pump out 5-6 bales with the 450 NH and 8030 in the time the other guy made 1 with a 530 and 4040. She sent him home and had me finish. Honestly I can make the 8030 work with 450.
Edited by victoryallis - 15 Nov 2023 at 8:55pm |
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8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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Kevin in WA
Orange Level Access Joined: 08 Feb 2010 Location: Lynden, WA Points: 610 |
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Something with a kicker so you don't have to back up when dumping the bale,
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Clay
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Udall, Kansas Points: 9322 |
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Nothing wrong with a Vermeer twine baler. Been using them to custom bale since the 1970's.
Currently using a 605K baler. It is twine tie. The key to using a twine baler is to put on twine every three to four inches. The advantage of a net wrap baler is speed. If you are baling alfalfa, a net wrap will loose less leaves. If you purchase a used baler, make sure it has been stored inside. Balers stored outside tend to have more bearing fires.
Edited by Clay - 15 Nov 2023 at 9:39pm |
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8633 |
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Don't touch the foot clutch. When bale gets up to size, ready to stop and tie it, just put the power director into neutral. You may have to apply some brake, but the tractor will stop, but the PTO will keep right on turning. After the bale is kicked out and you're ready to go again, just feather the power director back, and away you go. And if you want more speed, put the power director ahead, on the go. Darrel |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20479 |
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A perfect time for taking a can of WD40 with a stinger on it to lube up the Power Director lever pivot bushing and the detent latch. When that lever is lubed up it works very nice. Utilize the grab bar next to it for smoooooth engagements when coming out of neutral and going into Low or High range !!
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DanielW
Bronze Level Joined: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Ontario Points: 165 |
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A kicker would be fine on flat land, and really handy with the 185 because you can use the PD lever without having to back up. On hilly land, kickers pretty useless. We pulled the kicker off our Deere 435 in pretty short order: even when you make an effort to find the flattest piece of land to dump the bale, the kicker gets in rolling with enough momentum that it can often take off and roll away. We have some pretty crazy hills, however, so that's a pretty unique situation. Even without a kicker, you can get by without an independent PTO just fine. Just don't feel you have to stop and dump the bale right where it finishes and starts to tie. When the tie cycle starts, just pull quickly out of the windrow and keep on moving while it's tying: As long as you're not sucking up hay you're not hurting anything to be moving forward while tying. I loop around while it's tying, and once you get good you can time your loop so you're right at the ideal spot to dump when it finishes tying. Hit the clutch to stop PTO and forward motion, dump bale, let out clutch and close gate while moving forward. No gear change required. You're not wasting any more time because you're just moving while tying rather than sitting there waiting for it to tie. This system of looping around and not backing up works particularly well for us: Because we have so many hills, the spot where the bale finishes is seldom a good spot to dump - you often have to go searching for some flat-ish land to dump it. So I pull out of the windrow once it starts to tie and go find a flat spot while it's tying. I do this even with a tractor that has independent PTO.
Edited by DanielW - 16 Nov 2023 at 8:14am |
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Trinity45
Orange Level Access Joined: 17 Mar 2014 Location: Kentucky Points: 1684 |
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We ran a JD 635 round baler with our 185 no problems at all.
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