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D10 carburetor issues

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67-d10 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07 May 2023 at 11:05am
Good morning,

I have a D10 that i bought last fall that had been finicky to get going, but now it just flat out doesn't want to try.

I have set the top and bottom screws to 1 and a half out on the top and 2 and a half out on the bottom.

With the low idle stop screw on the engine side of the carb backed out, then motor will fire slightly when cranking, but won't start idling. When i speed the throttle lever up, it loses the ability to even fire, it'll just crank. It acts this way when i pull the choke at the low idle speed, no firing.

This morning i got it running, but once i put load to it at half throttle (tried driving forward), it fell on it's face and died. Then it wouldn't fire again, so I'm wondering what basics i need to start at to make it easier to run.

Don't be afraid to ask questions, i want to get this figured out.
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Boss Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boss Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 11:40am
Do you have the air cleaner hooked up? Do you have gas leaking out of the carb that its flooding? Once its running did you spray WD-40 around the manifold to check for a leak? Are you sure the points are good, set correct and its timed properly?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Larry in NC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 11:48am
Sounds like you are not getting a good fuel flow.  Start with the sediment bowl to make sure fuel is coming from the tank.  If so, the bottom jet in the carburetor may to clogged.  You need to take the carburetor apart and make sure fuel is moving through the jets.  When adjusting, the 1 1/2 rule is designed as a starting point for the adjustment screws.  Almost always about 1/2 to 1 round is all you need to use on the top screw.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67-d10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 12:21pm
I do have good flow from the sediment bowl, i have checked that.

I do have fuel running out the bottom of the carburetor. I had reset the point gap, and timing is really close when i checked it with a light.

With the air cleaner top off, i can put my hand over it and the tractor will still run, but struggles. I thought maybe it's due to air leak around the bottom bowl.

Where do i start to fix the flooding issue?
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 12:33pm
If you put your hand over the air cleaner inlet and shut off the air, and the motor still runs, then you have an air leak somewhere.... Since the motor does not appear to want to SUCK GAS thru the carburetor, the air leak is probably on the gasket on the manifold, or a crack in the manifold... look close.

if fuel is running out of the carb, then the carb needs to come off, pull the bowl and clean / blow out the jets / clean the Leaking inlet valve and set the float.


Edited by steve(ill) - 07 May 2023 at 12:35pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67-d10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 4:17pm
So i pulled the carb and everything checked out real clean. I did set the float, it was about 1.5 inches of the face, i adjusted it to 1 and 5/32.

The tractor still acts the same. Cranks over and fires slightly, but wouldn't go. I checked out everything on the intake manifold and it looks good.

I did get it running with ether and throttle it up half way. I sprayed ether everywhere on the intake manifold and it never changed speed.

Thoughts on these findings?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 4:25pm
if it runs on ether ... then your not getting the gas flow.. either the carb main jet is plugged or there is an air leak after the carb which does not allow it to SUCK GAS out of the carb.

when you have the carb bowl off, take out the brass jets and blow thru them, then look at a light bulb and make sure you can see thru the jet.. Then blow air down thru the port and feel it come out into the throat area and all is clean..  It dont take much of a little chip to plug a port............... i have a wire feed welder that uses .020 wire ... i run a piece of that down thru the port hole and into the body to make sure the hole is cleaned out.


Edited by steve(ill) - 07 May 2023 at 4:29pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67-d10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 4:57pm
I had them out and i have a keychain of key cleaning brushes and picks.

They were all out and clean, used the air compressor to blow through everything, pulled the inlet elbow on the fuel inlet and cleaned there as well

And to clarify, i used ether to start it, but once it got the speed, it ran on gas. And it would go 18 to 1900rpm with very slow increases to get there, but a quick throttle move would kill it, and it wouldn't fire again.

So i can get gas through the carb, it just seems the transition from running on the idle port to the main jet is being an issue? Or is this not possible?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jgranat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 6:24pm
If I missed it in your posts I'm sorry, but is it new fuel? This sorry excuse for gasoline today causes syptoms you describe too once it sits a while. Just thought I'd ask.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67-d10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 6:46pm
Yes, this is new gas.

It is e10, could that be an issue?

I am at a loss on this thing, it shouldn't be that hard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jgranat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 7:42pm
Nah, that should fire. Does it backfire? Good compression? Plugs and wires good shape too?

Edited by Jgranat - 07 May 2023 at 7:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 7:51pm
And to clarify, i used ether to start it, but once it got the speed, it ran on gas. And it would go 18 to 1900rpm with very slow increases to get there, but a quick throttle move would kill it, and it wouldn't fire again.

I dont know what carburetor you have, but the small UPPER adjusting screw is the idle mixture... and the larger LOWER screw is the LOAD or controlling the flow thru the main jet ( at the bottom) , up thru the small brass tube and into the carb throat near the throttle plate....... it sure sounds like the main jet , or the small brass tube above it is restricted... or you have a major air leak above the carb ( manifold).

this assumes your timing is correct, which you said you have checked.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67-d10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 8:44pm
The plate number is 213348.

I can pull the carb again and double check.

Am i wrong in thinking that spraying the ether on and at the intake manifold and gasket should have let me know if there was a leak?

I have not checked compression, plugs were new last fall and visually, the plug wires look good, no rubbing, not weathered or faded.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2023 at 9:19pm
Am i wrong in thinking that spraying the ether on and at the intake manifold and gasket should have let me know if there was a leak?---yes, that normally works on leaks..

I have not checked compression ---- low compression will cause a bad idle and bad start.. sometimes they will run at full throttle, but not idle down.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67-d10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2023 at 8:45am
Alright, so just compression tested it. From front to back we were:

122
125
125
130

Over the last month, I've put between 5 and 10 hours on it around the yard. So it has been running, it just is a pain to get started. If won't go and crank and crank, then the next time it'll fire up without trouble.

The gas running out the bottom of the carb would mean to much gas for the air going in. But it not wanting to take off above idle would mean not enough gas through the main jet. Compression seems okay. I didn't get run up with ether spray.

Any other thoughts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2023 at 8:59am
I do have fuel running out the bottom of the carburetor. I had reset the point gap, and timing is really close when i checked it with a light.

Just another thought besides fuel.....Your timing is close with the LIGHT.. Is it OK at static / not running ?  Does the advance mechanism seem to work freely ?  Is the distributor shaft wobble around a little / bushing worn ?  If there is slop, the "point gap" will change and your timing will be off... and start / run poorly.

rotate the engine till the distributor point is open.. grab the top of the shaft and push it back and forth... can you change the GAP several thousandths ?


Edited by steve(ill) - 08 May 2023 at 9:01am
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2023 at 4:01pm
How is your spark at the plugs?
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2023 at 4:56pm
I know this is a carb thread, but on no start issues, I like to start with electrical issues.  How does the key switch feel? if you put a heavy ring of keys on an indak switch, they quickly get loose and have intermittent no starts or dies for no reason incidents...Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2023 at 6:21pm
We had very much the same issue with my Dad's D10. The coil was the culprit that time, with another used coil installed, it was like a different tractor with quick starts and amazing throttle response.
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2023 at 6:43pm
I'm coming on to this a bit late, but are you sure it's a fuel issue and not an ignition issue? I would check the Distributor to see if the mainshaft has a wobble in it. Pop the cap, grab the rotor and see if you can move the mainshaft side to side. If so, the Distributor needs to be rebuilt. Another telltale sign of a wobbly Distributor is the points rub block is worn crooked. You also could have a condenser fail. This would cause the same issues you're having as well.... HTH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67-d10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2023 at 9:25pm
Thank you all for the suggestions, the weather got decent again, so we are back in the field. It'll be a few days the way it looks before i get to it again. At that point i will start checking over the electrical system and see what i can find out there.
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