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AC720Man 
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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 Topic: D17 series 1 steering.
Posted: 07 Apr 2023 at 7:01pm |
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My narrow front wonders while going down the road. Constant correction of the steering wheel is required to keep her straight. Looking through my service manual I see nothing addressing this issue. The play is evident while the tractor is off. Not sure if it’s wear in the worm gear to steering gear? There are 2 shims presently between the bearing retainer and the front support. Any ideas what I need to check? It also doesn’t talk about the rack adjustment. Replacing the universal joint at the bell housing due to wear. Turning the steering shaft towards the worm gear isolates it to that area.
Edited by AC720Man - 07 Apr 2023 at 7:17pm
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
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Posted: 07 Apr 2023 at 8:40pm |
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I would guess there is ware every place. Keyway at bottom of spindle, worm gear, slack in worm gear bearings, Ujoint, and pins holding Ujoint to shaft. MACK
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DrAllis
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Posted: 07 Apr 2023 at 9:06pm |
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Are you talking about front wheel wobble ?? or slack in things from the steering wheel to the front wheels ?? Like Mack says, everything is WORN and some things worn out !! I like 25 lbs of air in the right front tire and 20 lbs in the left. This preloads everything and helps until you cross over the road to the left side, so just stay on the right side.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 07 Apr 2023 at 9:58pm |
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No wobble, just having to correct left or right to stay straight. Not a huge problem but would like it to be less. Slack is a pretty good description but only from the bell housing forward. I’m replacing the u-joint at the bell housing due to wear but it’s nice and tight towards the steering wheel. Turning the shaft back and forth towards the front support is where the slop is. When I replaced the upper pedestal seal a few months ago I didn’t see anything obvious. I’m unsure about the shims, if they were removed would that take up some slack? I realize there is probably quite a bit of wear, it has over 5K hours on it. With the worm gear back in the front support it’s difficult to determine what’s going on. Doc, I will try the air pressure difference, it’s a narrow front, assuming that works on either front end?
Edited by AC720Man - 07 Apr 2023 at 10:05pm
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DrAllis
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Posted: 07 Apr 2023 at 11:21pm |
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Tire pressure trick is for narrow fronts. The power steering set-up itself creates looseness in the worm gear area because of the fact the worm gear itself moves in and out probably a 1/4" each way to activate the power assist control valve spool. There has to be some of this or there would be no power steering at all.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 1:48pm |
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Thank you both for your input. I will definitely try air pressure trick when I get her back together.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DaveKamp
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Location: LeClaire, Ia
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Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 10:35pm |
So, to localize wear in the steering, turn it to full lock (doesn't matter which), then back the steering wheel off a half turn, then try to wiggle the steer tires.
It SHOULD be tighter there, than straight ahead, because MOST steering slop wear to the worm/sector or rack/pinion is in the straight-ahead position, because THAT is where MOST of the driving time has the tires pointed.
It's difficult to fix, as you can't just 'adjust' it out. The sector or rack's center teeth have lost material, and the worm has worn to it... while the sector has significantly LESS drive time at any point more than 10 degrees off center. The WORM still works on this area even when well worn, but since the sector sees such little time there, the wear slop will be significantly less.
To fix this, if you were to somehow 'shim' the worm closer to the sector, it would close up the slop, however, when you got 15 degrees off centered, it would bind on the sector where unworn.
Building up the sector teeth, and the worm, and putting both in a bedding fixture and running it back and forth with some bedding abrasive paste would help get it back into good graces, but you'll be running the wheel back and forth a good many times getting it in good.
, there IS one way to take out the slack, and it's not a GOOD idea... Take out the worm, cut in two pieces in it's exact center, then rotate the two pieces just slightly, then weld them back together and polish the 'offset'. What this will do, is reclock the worm's left side, with respect to it's right side, effectively making one side a few 'degrees' advanced from the other, thus, closing up the slop. Again, not a 'good' idea, but it will work. You'll need to put bedding compound on the far extents of the sector and run the wheel back and forth to clear up tight areas of bind, but it'll work.
Edited by DaveKamp - 09 Apr 2023 at 10:39pm
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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AC720Man
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Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 13 Apr 2023 at 10:15pm |
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Good points Dave, it’s 60 plus years old so just being worn in straight line where’s it’s normally run makes sense. I was just curious if the shims or 1 shim was removed if that would help the situation?
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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