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alliswd 
Bronze Level
Joined: 02 Jan 2010
Location: EC Wisconsin
Points: 26
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 Topic: Electronic Ignition
Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 1:16pm |
I hate electrical problems! All summer long, I ran an electronic ignition system on my WD. Suddenly, at the end of an hour raking hay, the tractor stopped running. I had both the coil and distibutor checked - they're fine. Plug wires are fine - pass continutity. There's 12 volts at the positive wire on the coil and the distributor. The distributor turns - drive works. No spark. Any thoughts?
I just tried a COMPLETELY BRAND NEW DISTRBUTOR, COIL, AND PLUG WIRES with the same result! Is the coil not getting enough current?
I hate electrical problems!
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11908
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Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 2:27pm |
Your problem could be a faulty coil. Could also be a ageing Ignition switch or circuit feeding the switch. Check your circuitry heading to and from the switch... HTH
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 23550
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Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 2:58pm |
You said you have electronic igniton, so if the coil is good and power is OK and the distributor is Ok, it must be the 'magic module' aka electronic ignition.
If it 's just a normal system, I'd replace the condensor in the distributor,since you say everything else is OK...
A quick test is to take the center lead out of the distributor,lay it near the block(ground) then take the lead off from the -ve of the coil to the distributor and short it to ground on and off a few times, You should get a spark everytime.
If the condesor fails by internally shorting, you'll never get sparks.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11908
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Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 3:23pm |
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Not sure if the brand new distributor you installed was equipped with points or not. You didn't say. But if it was, and you got the same results, my assumption would be current failure or an interuption somewhere in the wiring to the Ignition circuit as I mentioned before I'd condemn the E.I. module. Check your circuitry for power in the crank mode. You could be losing current through the Ignition switch only while the starter is engaged. This would give you a "no spark" problem while cranking.....
Steve@B&B
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GregLawlerMinn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lawler, Mn
Points: 1226
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Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 3:23pm |
The EI modules I have used required the removal of the condensor. I would take Steve's advice and bypass your ignion switch (jumper from the bat to the coil) 1st.
Although I have never had a problem with the EI conversions I have done, I know they are sensitive to low voltage problems; make so sure your battery (and grounding/electrical paths) are good.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 3:33pm |
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Greg made an excellent suggestion which I didn't think of. If its a Pertronix E.I. unit that's in your original Distributor, that unit needs 4 or more volts to make it trigger. If your Battery is low due to a possible no charge issue developing, the E.I. module will not trigger. If this is the case, DO NOT put a Battery charger on the Battery without removing one or both cables. If the key is left on by accident, with the charger connected, the charger will spike the E.I. module, and make toast out of a once good module.
Steve@B&B
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 5:01pm |
One thing to remember is volt meters lie. You may have 12V to the coil, but is the wire and switch capable of providing the needed current? Under load, the volts may be dropping. The jumper wire the other guys say is a good test, but I use a headlight bulb to load test circuits, same difference I guess. If you got over 9.6v while cranking to the coil, and the dist is spinning, you either have a failed coil or module. You can test the module by putting your test light on the dist side of the coil. If it flashes while cranking, the module is OK. No flashes, module failed. I would recommend taking your coil to someone with a good quality digital ohm meter and read the primary resistance. Less than 3 ohms primary resistance will let the smoke out of the module. If you go with another module, I'd get their Flamethrower coil also to insure proper primary resistance.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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mlpankey
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
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Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 6:09pm |
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if its a petronix hall effect switch and the white sticker on it is blistered or discolored its junk.
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LouSWPA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Clinton, Pa
Points: 24458
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Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 6:20pm |
 mlpankey wrote:
if its a petronix hall effect switch and the white sticker on it is blistered or discolored its junk. |
Mitch, you sayin sombody let the magic smoke out! LOL
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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mlpankey
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
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Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 6:31pm |
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Lou prettty much. I think they are pretty much junk any ways . Mainly the advertising hype puts them there as something it isnt . Its hard to get 100 bucks though from something that without marketing from a magnetic switch that does nothing but replace the mechanical points. I know first hand which ones the cheapest to burn up. The spark energy always has and always will come from the coil and the voltage delivered to it from the battery or altenator and if it has to go through a resistor well your not getting the full potential . been telling guys for a while mopars little 39.95 orange box that uses points as the trigger was the tested value deal.
Edited by mlpankey - 03 Dec 2010 at 6:40pm
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