Fiat/Allis 16B

some parts like gaskets and orings, thermostats etc still available at minnparr, but for most larger hard parts it will be salvage yards.

https://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/search?Category=1025&Manufacturer=ALLIS-CHALMERS&Condition=DISMANTLED&Country=178&page=4

Thanks for the link and the information. I just don't want to start something and not be able to finish it. Once I figure out how to post a pic on here I will.

just watched a youtube video today of someone recently loading one on a trailer for scrap.  it started and run but was low on trans oil presumably and wouldnt move.  but looked like decent UC  what a shame.  would have been a great parts machine

Can anyone help me out here? I'm looking for the part number for a starter for this HD16B serial number 19S13130. The owner can't find where he put the old starter.  Thanks

Edited by CAL(KS) - 18 May 2022 at 2:29pm

I looked that starter up at minnpar but not sure its for a 17000 MKII 844 engine.

I have another question, I know this is a 24 volt system but I'm a little confused by the cables in the battery box on this dozer. There are 2 positive cables coming from the kill switch and it appears 2 ground cables that run under the dozer. I dont see how this configuration could result in 24 volts. What am I missing here? Thanks

Thanks, I just don't get why there are 2 positive cables going to the kill switch, just seems odd.

Got the cables sorted today and also bought a new starter for the dozer. Tomorrow we put on the starter and hookup the batteries then see if this ol'dozer will start and move.

book shows 2x12 in series with single cable.  kill is between negative post and ground to tractor.

The owner used the two cables from the kill switch as the jumper between the two batteries.

Today we had to sort out some bad cables after getting the starter on which took a bit. But we finally got the dozer to start but would only run on ether, we will check the rack on the pump tomorrow to see if its stuck. I don't know why it could be stuck after only sitting 15yrs or so. 

Thanks Codger, still no luck today. Do you have any pics or a diagram of just what you did to get it freed up? I'm not a mechanic that's why all the questions.  Thanks

Not really as I've been into so many of them through the years messing with antique equipment and trucks. However, and inline pump has a barrel and plunger for each cylinder. Many pumps require removal of the governor assembly to work with the rack which rotates the barrels increasing or decreasing the effective stroke of the plungers by changing spill timing. If the rack is indeed frozen in place, remove the injection lines and screw out the large plugs the injection lines attach to on the pump. Under these will be springs and discs or an apparatus that serves as the delivery valve. Ensure to keep these organized as to which placement they came from. The plungers are now exposed on their tops. I take compressed air and blow these clear of any liquid present, and then fill them with the mineral spirits allowing it to dwell. The fitment of the plungers to barrels is in the microinches range so leakdown if any will be very slow. Rapid level drop is usually a worn out pump.....