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convert to solar |
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BrianC ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 16 Jun 2011 Location: New York Points: 1619 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 02 Jun 2022 at 11:21am |
What size solar install (grid tie) would I need to: Heat the house heat the shop run the stove/oven drive an electric car 13,000 miles per year and cover existing usage. Current yearly electric usage is 7,100KWh. We use 1100 gal/yr of heating oil to heat the house. Boiler is 72% efficient. Shop is heated with vent less propane system (95% efficient?) uses 425 gal/yr. The kitchen stove/oven uses 47 gal/year of propane. For heating, figure pure electric heat. Then again for 200% efficient heat pumps. Electric stove. Figure car goes 3 miles on a KWH. A solar contractor (who got frustrated and hung up on me) said a nominal 1kw dc panel system would make 1,280KWh AC per year at my location with south exposure and 6/12 roof pitch. This is about what I have been hearing they produce. Don't worry for now if the electric company will allow me to have a grid tie system/inverter system that big. Thanks. |
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jvin248 ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Jan 2022 Location: Detroit Points: 422 |
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I found this channel helpful. He has another video where he walks through his own install. He used micro-inverters with wifi at the panels, because that gives insight into each panel's performance (like partial shading) for youtube, but end-users can save a lot with 'string inverters'. So focus your inverter search there. If you have a lot of shading then you may want the other systems to boost performance. Hurdle I've been working with is a deep well using two 120v legs -- which needs two inverters to each supply 120v. That may be the issue for you too. Start with the inverter you need now. Get an upgraded inverter later if you add something like the electric car or size the inverter to the electric car you have now (and water well!) and upgrade later. Inverters take all the stress and I expect their lifetime will be short and expendable. You can install more panels than your inverter will take, you'll clip at the peak of the day but have more energy in the morning/evening. You can also easily add more panels later. I'm working on a modified ground mount (no interest in hanging on the house roof), set up high enough I can park tractors and equipment under the 'car port' created by the panels... Check your location but where I'm at near Detroit, I'm putting the panels at a 'V' with 23deg up from the equator on each leg of the 'V' for 'declination' and tilted at 42deg from vertical. Snow won't stay on that. The 'V' wing shaped array build will level out energy output to get more morning and evening while lower mid-day when clipping can happen. I keep tabs on this forum lately: . |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85660 |
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1 gal propane = 91,000 BTU
1 KWH = 3400 BTU so 425 gal = 38,675,000 BTU = 11, 375 KWH ( or 1 gal prop = 27 KWH )
Edited by steve(ill) - 02 Jun 2022 at 1:10pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85660 |
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1 gal fuel oil = 40 KWH of electric
1100 gal oil = 44,000 KWH or electric.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85660 |
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So you would be using your present 7,100 KWH + the 11,275 KWH to replace propane, + 44,000 KWH to replace the fuel oil....
or about 62,500 KWH or electricity per year...... or 5200 KWH per month ..."roughly"
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85660 |
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5200 KWH per month is HUGE !!! Thats probably why the guy hung up on you... He was probably working on systems in the 1000 KWH per month range.
--------------------------------- about 893 kWh per month How much electricity does an American home use? In 2020, the average annual electricity consumption for a U.S. residential utility customer was 10,715 kilowatthours (kWh), an average of about 893 kWh per month.Oct 7, 2021 Edited by steve(ill) - 02 Jun 2022 at 1:22pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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BrianC ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 16 Jun 2011 Location: New York Points: 1619 |
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I guess my current 591 KWH per month is lower than average. So with oil and gas burning efficiencies subtracted, and COP of 2 heat pumps, I need 36,000KWH per year less. Add on an electric car and I need 30,833, add electric oven I need a 32086KWH/year solar system. Uhh, can I get that at Walmart? WTB: grid tied solar carport to produce 32,086 KWH yearly. This should be 25KW nominal system at my location. Shed roof 60x25 approx dimensions. So the big hitch is the local utility & local regulations will only let me install 115% of current usage, a 8.2KW system. About 1/3 of what I need to really go green. I see go green urging from the governor, but look, right here, they force me to keep burning fossil. Actually the last load of fuel oil was $5.90 per gallon, so I you assume it stays there and gas at 4.85 and propane at $4.00. I scared myself thinking all my electric propane and fuel oil was going to cost $16K per year. It will if prices don't come down. |
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24351 |
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wow, local guv dictates the size of the solar install ??? !!! man I thought Canadian Guv was bad.... I'd be writing someone about NOT being able to 'Go Green'.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Lars(wi) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Permian Basin Points: 7742 |
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Total yearly usage is only part of the equation. You must plan for ‘surges’ of usage or ‘draw’.
Middle of winter, -20 temps, overcast, high winds, for days on end. Laundry , showers, recharging multiple EV’s. How much hot water can you store? How big will the battery bank be? Human civilization is many decades away from being independent from hydrocarbon generation of energy, to be comparable to today’s minimum standard of living. |
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85660 |
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wow, local guv dictates the size of the solar install ??? !!
I dont know all the rules, but in Illinois if you spend about $30,000. on a system, you will get about $10K back in FEDERAL Taxes and the LOCAL POWER COMPANY will chip in about $!0K........... so LONG TERM, after the tax deductions ( over a period of a few years) you spend about $10K..... BUTT, BUTT, BUTT.... You can only get up to a 10K KWH system for "residential" DEAL. Our local "COOP" guy once told me... "Wind and Solar are not too bad of a deal if you can get someone else to pay for 2/3 of it " !!!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5971 |
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And usually, the payoff period is about a year short of the PV panels' effective lifespan. My friends' grid-tie 10KW system in Tennessee, for example... it was built to cost assuming that it would break even (meaning, paid for itself, and nothing more) over a 15 year operational span. The energy sales TO his utility, plus the green subsidy, will have paid for the system at 15 years PROVIDED that it's generating full performance for the entire 15, but for two reasons, it won't.... first, one cannot guarantee that you'll have full terrestrial sunlight for every daylight hour of every day... even with panel directing (az/el), fresnel effect prevents full spectrum energy from hitting the panels (atmospher bends sunlight away as sun nears horizon) and weather (rainy, cloudy, snowy days)... and furthermore, the panels' performance naturally degrade as they age. At current trajectory, the panels' output will be done at about the 13 year point, at which point, he'll be paying for the entirety of the system, and not recieving subsidies or energy sales payments. The losses, at that point, will exceed all the gains. As for output, his 10kw system averages about 30% of rated full output, and as others noted, it will NOT provide enough on-demand power for any 'surge' scenarios, you get what it gots. In order to absorb the volume of energy noted above (5200kwh/mo) you'll need about a 70kw AVERAGE capture/production system... that's roughly 280 250w panels, more than six inverters, and some way to STORE all that power (lots of batterie$?). Neither environmentally friendly, or cost feasible... especially considering that neither the PV cells, nor the inverters or storage medium will go for any extended period without constant maintenance.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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DMiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33147 |
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Local Solar Installer Sold a Neighbor a System, sits on a frame work behind his house, SUPPOSED to have paid back enough in 10 years to have paid for itself, HOWEVER, the Grid Tie system is broken, will not phase match to connect so was told he would have to purchase ANOTHER AT COST, asked of Warranty, is ONLY on the panels for Lifetime(Of Producer), remaining components ONE Year. He looked up a replacement and CANNOT Get as are out of Production(CHINA), nothing will work for the Installed voltage system so requires a 'Uprated System' and since got Gov kickback first time NOT eligible this one.
I sat with the guy one time and he quoted the System he sold most often, so I showed a Utility Bill, Shop and Home all on ONE meter, around 3400kwh/month, I wanted STAND ALONE system. He ran around that for forty five minutes and as I would not give up he stated Fed will only pay for a Basic System, NO Special Alignments, REA will not chip in either and a Stand Alone for our house, Inverter, Batteries bank, Charging system and monitor, Wire, Auto Disconnect/Reconnect unit and Framework was somewhere near to $67,000 with NO REBATES Available.
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Lars(wi) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Permian Basin Points: 7742 |
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My question is; Why are there govt. subsidies for any of this? This is not the responsibility of government to ensure a solar system is affordable.
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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BrianC ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 16 Jun 2011 Location: New York Points: 1619 |
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I wasn't thinking batteries. Grid tied. If the grid goes down I would be down. If my inverter won't sync up I would be upset. Multiple inverters? If the components don't last that would change the equation. I am suspicious of the heat pumps. Can they go 20 years without big repairs? My oil fired boiler sure has. I think if current high prices hold up I am spending $11.6K per year power/heat home and drive car. If I simply converted to electric for heat right now, no solar, the utility bill would be $3700 less per year. The investment would be 2 good size heat pump systems. I don't know what they cost, for the shop, $4k (35kbtu), for the house $8K (80Kbtu)? I would hook it up myself. I could wait on the car, the one I have (hybrid gas burner) is 36MPG. I could get grumpy and stay at home more. In the cold house. With heat pump noise making me nervous. We are taking a beating, one of our biggest expenses has doubled it cost. Just build more nuke plants, a common proven safe design. Sell the electric for 10 cents per KWH. Use the domestic oil to make tires and plastics, power industry and transport with oil. Oh crap, what a country. Did our mercy shipment of baby food arrive from Haiti? |
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24351 |
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be SURE to look at the REAL specs for 'heat pumps' ! 1st gen type are LOUSY when it gets kinda cold, miserable when it does get cold,so they have resistance heaters as 'backups'. 'Splits' are much better...'might' be what they are talking about, one outside unit does 1-6 'heads'( 1 per bedroom, 2 in larger rooms..) They'll come precharged, simple install, connect tubing, cross fingers and you'll get both heat and air conditioning. if (IF) you save $3700 per year, WHAT is the true initial cost (equipment and install fees), so you can figure out payback and 'is it worthwhile'. The ONLY reason I replaced my 35 year old gas furnace was to get a better deal on insurance. The new unit is costing me MORE to run,only 93% eff, old one was 94.5% last winter. You might get better savings with more insulation,adding mudrooms( dbl doors),sealing the heat ducts, etc. Hydro up here is about 25c/kWh once you figure in all the 'lines of services', carbon tax and then 13% Hot potato Sales Tax..... Really sad when you consider Niagara falls is 43 minutes from me....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5971 |
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Subsidy is the only way they can press their agenda forward. The other half of the program, is to systematically destroy the system which is efficient, reliable, and cost-effective, which they're doing by killing the fossil supply economic structure, driving up prices, and blocking every aspect of maintenance they can. If they don't, their upsurpment initiative simply won't work. The cost to manufacture,
install, and operate is substantially higher than the existing system, and is entirely incapable of equating it's output or reliability, regardless of cost. Heat pumps work fine for heating in southern climates, but the basic principles of subcool/superheat meant that as temperature falls, the heat pump's ability to heat drop off substantially. Most systems, in a dry air environment, an air-exchange unit will it's operational limit around 10F or so... and if it's humid, you won't get heat of any significance below 25F... so they're functionally useless at -15. A subterranian exchanger, since it's utilizing ground heat, will withstand the shorter temperature excursions, but as cold- time passes, the buried loop temperature continues to fall, and in following a deeper frost-line, eventually loses ability to heat. This is why EVERY 'heat pump' rated thermostat has an 'emergency heat' feature. What they DO NOT advertise about heat pumps, is that as you decrease ambient temperature, the heat pump's energy efficiency drops off radically in concert with it's cooling efficiency... meaning, power consumption remains same, but running it any more is a waste, as it just stops heating. The real issue here, is that the 'energy plan' upon which all of these shenanigans are based, fails to take into account that, once all in place, the end result will NOT function. As you've noted, the amount of energy needed, is too high. Now, spread that out across the entire nation, and you'll see that there simply isn't enough ELECTRICAL distribution, or generating capacity, to make it work. The reason why internal combustion engines beat electric batteries in the 'brass era' vehicles of the teens and early twenties, is simple- one can safely recharge a combustion engine, with a fuel dispenser, in under five minutes, and with that 'charge' of say... 15 gallons, travel 300 miles, AND have heat, on a cold winter day... and when that 'charge' is depleted most of the way, stop for another five minutes, repeat the process. at regular intervals, continuously, for years, with no worries, and because the vehicle is LIGHT, it will maintain the same efficiency regardless of terrain or load. A battery, on the other hand, cannot provide that same energy density, in any size, nor anywhere NEAR the weight, it is considerably heavier, and as a result, a crippling loss of efficiency. If everyone magically changes their homes and vehicles to electric power, we will have nothing, as there simply isn't enough electrical capacity. Wind, solar, and hydroelectric cannot provide it (hydroelectric being the most reliable, but not exempt from, and also the most expensive and environmentally impactive). It is important to remember that the great majority of our national power comes from nuclear-steam plants, which operate at 100% anytime they're not down for service. When Nuclear-steam came around, The coal-fired (fossil-steam) facilities' purpose shifted to 'peak' management- to bring on extra output to attend to high-demand circumstances, thus stabilizing the grid. Adding the solar and wind naturally destabilizes the grid, and eliminating large capacity fossil-steam signs a suicide pact. My best advice, is to install a wood stove, a type that can be started with kindling, and operate by convection, as it depends only upon gravity and triangles in order to operate. My next advise, is that when you look at that ballot, realize that the pencil in your hand will not burn long enough to keep your family warm for any significant timeframe.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Kenny L. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NEIOWA Points: 1331 |
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We put geothermal in 2007 (I believe ) and it paid for it's self in 7 years going thur our REC we're all ele except the wife cooking stove our bill runs 200 to 230 every month, it was one of the smarts things we've done. I wouldn't do solar until they work out a lot more of the bugs it has which I think will be a long time from now. One thing I forgot to included was we had 5 acres to run geo lines.
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shameless dude ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607 |
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if/when we build a new house, it will have in floor heat, i want to be able to run the water heater and pump from either solar or wind genny or maybe both. our electric company is raising costs up and up more often than a year atta time, we are right now at over $230. a month now and we don't run much on electric! only thing that runs 24/7 is a yard light that has a 5 watt LED bulb in it. at these prices it won't take long to pay for it!
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tadams(OH) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Location: Jeromesville, O Points: 10634 |
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If you go solar with batteries you have to replace batteries about every 10 years and a the time I was looking 2 banks of 6 volt batteries was cheap and that was 15 years ago. Our electric company will only pay you what they pay for electric if you put it on line.
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shameless dude ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607 |
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and your payment will only come at the end of the year from the power companies. i don't wanna mess with them, they have gotten court injuctions on about everyone around here that have put in alternate power sources if they are still hooked up to the grid. didn't matter if they had the throw out switches or not. and with many choosing alternate power sources across the country, the power companies will still be raising the prices of electric cuz they still want the pay grades and always newer equipment to stay in place!
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BrianC ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 16 Jun 2011 Location: New York Points: 1619 |
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Thanks for all the responses. I don't really want all that extra infrastructure, or to be a power plant operator. There would be no problem if the price of electricity was such normal working person could heat the house and charge the car. 4cents per KWH is what it should be. How to do that? Could open a Jiffy lube. Heat the home with used motor oil. Run an old slow diesel with the oil to make electricity (and heat). But now I would be a co-gen power plant operator. |
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DMiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33147 |
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Current breakeven for commercial base load stations is around $.08-$.10 kwh
Base load stations generate in MWH, with most larger source stations having multiple High Capacity generators of 150-300mwh delivery Nukes are from 500-1250mwh Best can Accomplish as a break even with all the environmental, regulatory bodies or locals demanding upgrades they cannot comprehend how to pay for. Shareholders pay a premium in investing large dollars in these companies for Annual operating capital, they receive a dividend for leaving THEIR high end money in the utilities hands for time factors. |
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