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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Posted: 04 Jan 2022 at 3:45pm |
I bought this thing on a whim. It has sat for about 20 years. The tracks, rollers, sprockets, and rails all look to be in good shape. No one has tried to crank it. Before I do I wanted to get it brought home and look it over good and change fluids if deemed worthy. They said it ran and worked well when parked by an old man who passed away. I gave $850 for it. The hydraulic tank looked to be full of sludge so I was looking into possibly replacing the pump if need be. I figure it’s worth that in scrap if it doesn’t work out.
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 81374 |
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if the pins and bushings look OK.... you got 2-3 times that much value just in the undercarriage..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Lee Bradley
Bronze Level Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Kingston, WA Points: 117 |
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Looks like a brand new spocket on this side. Even if you part it out, you did good.
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JohnColo
Orange Level Joined: 03 Apr 2020 Location: Niwot, CO Points: 1258 |
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I think you done good! Looks like a bit of TLC and you will have a fun toy to play with.
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41609 |
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If the tracks are good , you got your money back , rest if parted are a bonus .
The 2-71 is a easy engine to work on if needed . Hydraulic pump is problem if bad as hard to find any replacement easily but would not rule out it's OK . 33 link track on the 5B dozers , Put some effort into it as it may be slow but can still be a working machine |
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Anybody know weak places in the block to check for freeze damage? Rats/mice had chewed into the bottom radiator hose and there was no fluid in the radiator to see if it had any antifreeze. They said it did when parked but no way of knowing for sure if it was sufficient.
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DonBC
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Courtenay, BC, Points: 913 |
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Even a fairly weak mixture of antifreeze offers protection as it forms a slush and not hard and expansive like freezing water.
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Jack of all trades, master of none
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823 |
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If the bottom hose was chewed thru and most of the coolant leaked out, I seriously doubt there is any freeze damage to the block or coolant system. The problem could be rusty scale build up, from being exposed to the atmosphere for who knows how long a period. Many of these old engines have sat for decades and been revived. Just KNOW what you're doing with the fuel injector system before cranking it. Run Away's can destroy an otherwise good engine. At least be ready to close off the air intake before cranking. That would get put to regular use if it was in my possession. My OC46 track loader isn't much of a dozer Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 07 Jan 2022 at 7:27am |
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Thanks for the advice guys! Just FYI I did open the valve cover and make sure the rack moved freely. One injector was stuck but I worked if free by removing the fuel lines, squirting in some brake cleaner to flush it out, followed by some PB Blaster. Let it set for a bit and tapped the plunger down and pulled it back up a couple times. Flushed it out again and the rack moves nice and free now. Went ahead and flushed out the other injector in the same manner. I haven’t tried to roll it over yet, but I’m bringing it home next week……I hope.🤞
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pinball
Orange Level Access Joined: 28 May 2014 Location: missouriu Points: 6103 |
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Ya know you never know what you have until you try to start it. it wouldn't surprise me if most everything is okay. that motor seems to be a good motor. change the oil and you never know. price seems good to me. but the real deal is when you get it operating and play/use it. that in itself is worth whatever you have in it. good luck and put another photo with you in the driver's seat when finished. It's always good to see these old machines brought back to life. they were a good old workhorse in its time.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Well my son and I got the blade up and chained off today. We also tied my truck to it and with a little persuasion we managed to get it unstuck from the ground where it rolls free. Will be going over next week to load it on the trailer and bring it home. Then let the fun (or lack thereof) begin! I actually enjoy giving old machines a chance to be useful again. Good thing about this is you can take a standard socket set, standard wrenches, and a hammer (gotta have a hammer) and work on just about everything on it.
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DougG
Orange Level Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 8113 |
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So very true ! Good luck with it , may not be bad at all
Edited by DougG - 09 Jan 2022 at 1:55pm |
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Got the old girl home today. Will be removing the blade and pressure washing over the next week…weather permitting.
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HD6GTOM
Orange Level Joined: 30 Nov 2009 Location: MADISON CO IA Points: 6627 |
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Bee carefull power washing the radiator. I've seen a couple damaged with a high powered washer.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Thanks for the heads up Tom. I will be sure to avoid hitting the radiator with the high pressure.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Is there a good way to see if the blower is locked up other than pulling it off? When I try to roll the crank with a pry bar there is a slight movement followed by a “clank” in what sounds like the front end (gears behind the front cover).
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gemdozer
Orange Level Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Points: 989 |
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You can removed the air filter pipe and the adaptor with 4 bolts on top blower and you should see the rotor inside and could be the startor freeze and you could removed the exhaust manifold you can see the piston and sleeve he could have some rust.
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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I would probably pull the injectors out and fill the holes with a mix of ATF and diesel fuel. A couple of days later repeat. Then attempt to bar the engine over. Sounds like you may be hitting a rust ridge that has formed in a cylinder wall stopping piston travel. Most times this can be overcome but you don't really want to do it by brute force or you'll have an oil burner, or low compression for sure. Sometimes however, it simply cannot be helped as there is no other way. Give the oil solution a few days to work an loosen/soften the rust, (if culprit) before forcing the engine to rotate. Once it's rotating, I would ensure you are not too overfull on the crankcase dipstick before starting the engine.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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I removed the old rotten exhaust manifold and the valve cover. I depressed the exhaust valves and squirted a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone into the cylinders. I put about 1/2 a pint into each cylinder. I also removed the side cover and sprayed PB blaster on the pistons via the sleeve ports. I have not put much force on it so far I’ve just been working it back and forth. It just barely moves but when it does I hear that clang in what sounds to be the gears behind front cover. It moves just enough for gear lash or maybe it’s just slop in the main/rod bearings. I wasn’t able to watch through the side cover and rock the crank because I was by myself. There are no belts on it either so no parasitic drag from that.
Gem I did remove the intake on the top of the blower and cleaned the screen. When I look down in there I can only see the casting of the body. I wasn’t able to see the lobes. I will remove the starter to eliminate that |
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Another thing I noted is the exhaust valves and stems didn’t have any rust on them looking through the exhaust ports. I did not see any rust on the pistons looking through the sleeve ports. I can see one piston’s rings and they looked good with no rust.
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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You are on the right track I'm thinking. Someone needs to look at those intake ports while a compadre works the crankshaft to ascertain which piston(s) are stuck, and which are attempting to move so you can drill down to which needs additional attention.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Well found the problem today. Pulled the starter off, which needed to be lubed up and connected to a battery and cycled several times to get it to work properly. Couldn’t move the engine at the flywheel with a pry bar afterwards. Removed the blower to be sure it wasn’t locked up. It wasn’t but it did need a good washing out. Then I pulled the cylinder head. One of the liners was rusted pretty bad. I used a brass wire cup in a drill to remove most of it and then vacuumed it out with my shop vac. I then oiled the cylinder and hone up and tried to smooth it out as best I could. Cleaned it out real good and soaked it with PB blaster. After that the crank broke free pretty easily. That cylinder was going down. I got the piston out of the way and honed it again to remove the rust I couldn’t get to at the beginning. Bumped the crank back and forth when it would get a little snug and now it moves free. Neither cylinder had a ring ridge that I could feel with my fingernail. At the very least it will need a piston and a cylinder and some gaskets. The cylinder head wasn’t too bad. I used the brass brush to clean it up. My goal is to get it running long enough to see what else is wrong with the machine before I bury money in the motor and there be another issue. I am going to try to mount the blower and the starter again tomorrow.
Edited by COD - 18 Jan 2022 at 6:20pm |
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pinball
Orange Level Access Joined: 28 May 2014 Location: missouriu Points: 6103 |
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Sounds as you're doing a good job. let's hope it runs okay.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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On a cylinder kit, I’ve noticed there seems to be a 1, 2, and a three. What is the difference and how do you know which one you need?
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3786 |
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Edited by CAL(KS) - 19 Jan 2022 at 2:42pm |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Thanks Cal! I figured it was something along those lines. So the sleeve will have a number stamped in it?
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3786 |
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yes, on the outside below the ports if i recall
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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OK. Thanks
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 31143 |
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1 should be standard, IIRC 2s were .005 Oversize and 3s .015. Detroit used to rubber stamp ink them in different positions on the liners, Close to Top rim was a Heavy where close to bottom was a Light sized. Midway on sleeve was exact to size.
If a sleeve Falls in do NOT try to use it as will sheer at the air box holes. Needs to be a semi snug Slip fit.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Thanks. I will check it out once I see if she will runs and see if things operate on her or not.
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