Plow Model

I cut my teeth testing the mono-frame plow back in 1966-67.  At 6 bottoms, it could be a base 4 bottom 2000 with a 2 bottom extension or a base 6 bottom 3000 plow. 

Here you go Charlie,

Here's a 2000 monoframe plow with yours truly driving.  It was taken in about 1967.  It was during an advertising photo shoot.

The note is from the implement engineering manager, Dick Moe.  He sent me the photo and note when I was promoted to the tractor design engineering manager post in 1978.




Edited by 427435 - 26 Nov 2010 at 5:10pm

427435, how did a 190xt handle a 6 bottom? I've seen other photos also of a 190 and 6 bottom. Where is that photo taken.

I bought one this fall too.It's a later Monoframe 6-16 (i.e. it is a base 6 furrow, in-furrow, expandable to 7 furrow with the taller 32" clearance stub arms).It is a hydraulic reset with the rubber bushing coulters. The frame is straight with no broken welds. Norm Swinford's book gives a good history. We tore mine apart stem to stern and glad we did. The end result is a very, very smooth plowing plow that I pulled with my AC 210.

We replaced many of the moldboards (mine has 387's), every bearing (there's bearings on each coulter and both the rear wheel and gauge wheel), and spent particular attention to all the greaseable bushings on the plow arms. In my case they all took grease except the lowest ones on 5 of the 6 stub arms. I think that is why the previous owner scrapped it. With them seized and boy were they seized, the plow would trip but not come back into plowing position.The stub arms have to be able to move freely (when not connected to the accumulator-I'll come to that in a minute)-and mine didn't. They had tried to free them up with heat and then tried to get them off with bashing but if you don't study how they come apart you'll never get them apart. We got them apart (I can tell you how in a separate post if you ever want to know). Once apart we cleaned the bushings up and freed the grease passages (we broke a drill bit drilling out the hardened dirt/grease in them).

The next thing to check is the accumulator (if yours is hyd reset). Apparently the accumulator is very robust and most don't leak. If you want more info on how they work and how to test send me a message.

The most important tool I had for refurbishing this plow was the manual for it I found on ebay. I think it is a must have if you want to work on your plow with little wasted effort. Norm sang the praises of these plows in his book and I agree. A buddy of mine who is a JD nut plowed with it 2 weeks ago and he thinks it's really great. We plowed some pretty stony pasture and the plows trip and reset with the stub arms moving like keys on a piano. Get it working and you'll love it.   

Yes it was Armand, I got it home Sat. I even put it in ground and plowed the head land on a corn feild that I left and it plowed very nice, I think I can pull it with my 190xt, the 7000 pulled it just fine started in 2-1 then went to 2-2 no problem then 2-3 it pull good,

we plow away from the fences on occasion here. The fenceline tends to build up with soil that is blown in, or that a disk kicks up around the outside of the field.

Here is one of the last large plowing jobs it was used on. This is CRP ground that came out in 1996. I think I have posted this video before, but it might still interest some folks.

Edited by redline - 29 Nov 2010 at 9:41pm