This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | ||||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
Head Bolts |
Post Reply |
Author | |
dgerth
Bronze Level Joined: 27 Nov 2012 Location: NC Wash Points: 172 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 15 Dec 2021 at 8:55am |
Building a new engine. Getting close to head bolt time and was wondering, I have a set of
ARP's but they will be too short now. Anyone know of alternatives for longer bolts other than ARP ($$$$$) studs? Or should I quit being cheapo and bite it!! dg
|
|
Sponsored Links | |
bsallis180
Silver Level Joined: 29 Jul 2013 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 209 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
What motor? what fuel? how is it aspirated?
|
|
dgerth
Bronze Level Joined: 27 Nov 2012 Location: NC Wash Points: 172 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Carburetor, 149 cid, 13.1 to 1 CR, 112 race fuel (VP)
|
|
bsallis180
Silver Level Joined: 29 Jul 2013 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 209 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I would imagine OEM be fine. If you want bolts I use CAT grade 8 bolts on high Hp turbo diesel like greater then 800hp. The flat surface area would be more important then a aftermarket stud/bolt in your application my opinion
|
|
DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 31116 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
You need to go to Studs and Nuts, Forget Bolts. Went thru stuff like this on IH Pullers in the 80s
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20534 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I've built probably two dozen Allis G-226 and W-226's in the last 40 years and never used anything but a good grade 8 bolt and a hard flat washer under the head. All were carburated and no turbo's. All were over 10 to 1 compression and the 400 inch ones at 13 to 1. Never have had any troubles, so you'll never convince me to use studs and nuts which are so hard to clean up around when you do work on the engine. The later D-17 engines were always grade 8 from the factory, but most people don't know that.
|
|
PaulB
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4753 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I feel NEW grade 8 bolts with hardened flat washers will be just fine. That what I've used on all the small Hi-Performance AC engines I've ever built. Even the one in the D10 with the turbocharger. If you want to go for studs, go for it. Either way don't use used bolts/studs.
|
|
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
|
NEVER green
Orange Level Access Joined: 28 Feb 2013 Location: MN. Points: 7498 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Go to pulloff dot com, there is a discussion there and are several companies listed supposedly reasonably priced.
|
|
2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |