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Oldred 
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Location: Bluffton,AB,Can
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 Topic: 8050 Powershift noise/vibration
Posted: 14 Sep 2021 at 9:16am |
The last couple months my 8050 FWA PS tractor has started to make a kind of growling sound only when in high range 6th gear above 2000 rpm. No noise in 5th gear high range and up to the PTO speed of 2300rpm and no noise in any gear in low range at 2300rpm. It started when roading from field to field baling hay this summer. Any ideas what this could be, I'm thinking with my limited knowledge that a transmission shaft/bearing when high range and 6th gear is selected is on its way out.
Anyone ever had these tranny symptoms or any ideas ? Thx Mark Laczo
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DrAllis
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Posted: 14 Sep 2021 at 9:27am |
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As far as the transmission goes (6 speed power shift) if you have no issues in sixth gear LOW RANGE, the power shift trans must not be the problem. I'm thinking cab isolator rubber mounts or tire rumble and you have the FWA disengaged when roading, right ??
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MACK
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Posted: 14 Sep 2021 at 9:04pm |
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I agree with Dr. MACK
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Oldred
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Posted: 14 Sep 2021 at 10:03pm |
Yes I always have FWA disengaged, I will be looking into the cab isolators right away. The front tires are getting worn and are older Firestone field & Road bias. I may have to pony up for some new radials.
Thx for advice
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Oldred
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Posted: 08 Nov 2021 at 4:27am |
Update,
I did a test to make sure the FWA was disengaged when the switch is off, then replaced the front tires as there were shot and planned on replacing anyways changed from worn out bias to new radials. I had already done the 2 rear cab isolators a year ago. The sound is less pronounced/ quieter but still getting the noise / vibration at above 2000rpm in high range 6th gear only just less. I am going to order the 2 front cab isolators and change out as well. Is there a possibility the FWA could be slightly engaging or clutch dragging so to speak without the switch somehow ? I am gonna jack the front end up and check for any front end play front bearing issues.
Thx
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cowkicker
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Posted: 09 Nov 2021 at 7:49pm |
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Have you checked the flop in the yokes and splines on the driveshaft? My 8070 was doing the same thing, actually sounded like the front end was going to come apart, I guess it took 6th gear and high rpm to get enough speed to get the vibration. New front yoke fixed mine.
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Oldred
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Posted: 10 Nov 2021 at 9:05pm |
I will look into that also I know mine has play. I have heard of some weldng a collar on the diff side of the front of the yoke with an id of the splines to tighten as well.
Thx
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DrAllis
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Posted: 11 Nov 2021 at 6:02am |
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Remove the entire driveshaft and test drive it.
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Leon B MO
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Posted: 11 Nov 2021 at 8:07am |
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I had a hydraulic supply line rubbing the 3pt lift arm just below the valve stack on our 8070. Made the most anoying sound till I found it and moved it a bit. Just something else to look for.
Leon B Mo
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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HagerAC
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Posted: 12 Nov 2021 at 9:57am |
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Have you checked the u joints for the front axle drive shaft? I had the rear one fail and it did exactly the things you say.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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Oldred
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Posted: 12 Nov 2021 at 9:52pm |
Thanks fellas all good ideas. Will be checking these all out this weekend.
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Oldred
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Posted: 21 Nov 2021 at 8:18pm |
Okay update:
Pulled the front driveshaft off and ran it down the road a mile or so in high gear at 2300 rpm nice and smooth. Both U joints feel good no play. Yoke is really worn bad. Phoned my local Agco dealer and new yoke is available out of Chicago. $820 Cdn which is about $650 Usd. Pricey but I guess I'm gonna need it so I don't wreck the splines on the pinion too.
Mark in West Central Alberta
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JimWenigOH
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Posted: 21 Nov 2021 at 8:40pm |
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Do you think the failure was do to lack of lubrication over the life of the tractor? That rear joint, hidden above the shield would make it a good candidate to "wait until the next time" to grease it.
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Oldred
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Posted: 21 Nov 2021 at 8:52pm |
No because it gets greased the same intervals as the front one. I use a longer needle type end and do not have to removed the shield. As I said both U joints are good no play. The front splined yoke is the one I mean not the rear that is causing the vibration on the pinion of the front axle.
Edited by Oldred - 21 Nov 2021 at 8:59pm
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Ed (Ont)
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Posted: 21 Nov 2021 at 9:24pm |
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Did you pull the shaft and actually check the U-joints as Doc said. It can have no play but still be bad. Remove shaft and see that the joints move all the way freely in both directions. Remove all caps and check for knurling on the cross. If you have done all that then you should be good. It certainly sounds like you have checked it well.
Edited by Ed (Ont) - 21 Nov 2021 at 9:25pm
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Ron(AB)
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Posted: 22 Nov 2021 at 12:02am |
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Have you tried Pat's Driveline in Edmonton?
Might be able to get one made cheaper.
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405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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Oldred
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Posted: 22 Nov 2021 at 4:41am |
 Ed (Ont) wrote:
Did you pull the shaft and actually check the U-joints as Doc said. It can have no play but still be bad. Remove shaft and see that the joints move all the way freely in both directions. Remove all caps and check for knurling on the cross. If you have done all that then you should be good. It certainly sounds like you have checked it well. |
Yup, the shaft is completely removed and U-Joints were checked and move freely both ways on both ends. I will take the caps off and look for any damage or heat on those crosses.
I will check with Pats on that Yoke but not holding my breath Ron(ab) lol.
Thx Mark
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DrAllis
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Posted: 22 Nov 2021 at 7:34am |
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Save the old worn yoke and consider slicing off say maybe 1/2" off the end and sliding it on the differential shaft as far as it can be jammed on the splines. Slide on the new yoke far enough to align the retaining pin. Weld the front piece to the new yoke to buy yourself more years of spline life. They key here would be make the extension as long as possible.
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Oldred
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Posted: 23 Nov 2021 at 2:52am |
DrAllis, That is an excellent idea. I will do as you suggest. I was trying to figure a way and phoned my machinist, it take a very specialized tool to cut splines on the inside of a collar. Outside is way easier. Not many small machinists have that particular machine.
On a side note I was looking at my small 1000 pto adapter to large 1000 pto and it has 2 cuts/parts 180 degs to each other on the adapter with 2 allen head bolts to clamp the adapter tight to the shaft (zero wobbling). I was trying to think of a way to do something similar on that yoke but that would be more specialty machine work.
Thx Mark Laczo
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DrAllis
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Posted: 23 Nov 2021 at 6:16am |
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Clamping would be very good, yes. But a lot more work to accomplish that design. Should have been that way from the start.
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HagerAC
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Posted: 23 Nov 2021 at 8:14pm |
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When i did the yoke extension on mine this spring I added 7/10 of an inch off of the old one. Honestly you could probably add 3/4 of an inch and get it to fit on the splines. The more the better.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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Nyben123
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Posted: 25 Nov 2021 at 1:09am |
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Did you try to remove the driveshaft and test drive it?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 25 Nov 2021 at 5:46am |
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Check Nov 21 post at 8:18 PM.
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Oldred
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Posted: 14 Dec 2021 at 12:00am |
Update
Well we got the new yoke and cut as much off of the collar of the old yoke as we could and welded onto the new yoke with splines aligned. Had to gently tap it on for a nice snug fit. Zero play right now. Road test was just like shaft was removed 6th gear high at 2300 rpm and nice and smooth no vibrations.
Thx for all the help and advice guys appreciated.
Mark
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Ron(AB)
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Posted: 14 Dec 2021 at 7:36pm |
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Mark,
Did you go thru Agco for the new yoke?
Or did a machine shop make it?
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405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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Oldred
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Posted: 15 Dec 2021 at 10:38pm |
Bit the bullet and went through Agco.
I phoned a couple machine shops and there is a special machine/tool to cut splines on the inside of tubing, not very many places can do that I was told.
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