Sealing gaskets

Interestingly, I have had 2 engine builders with years of building engines tell me they only place a thin layer of grease gun grease on each side of their gaskets before assembly. No permatex unless an uneven surface is encountered such as a 50 year old timing cover for example. May be due to a over torqued bolt or using the wrong tools to remove an old gasket. Their reasoning was as you torque the bolts down it compresses the gasket to the point that it compresses the grease out evenly, sealing the gasket and also keeps the gasket moist. Also allows for easy removal in a future repair. I typically use Permatex sparingly, just a light coat with my finger spreading it over the gasket. Works well, but I must admit it is difficult to remove the gasket if it needs to come off for a repair in the future. But I don't like leaks and that’s why I do use use it. Don’t like doing things twice. They both said if both surfaces are flat there should be no need for it. What does the factory do today and when a WD was built?
Thoughts?

Edited by AC720Man - 11 Aug 2021 at 9:44pm

For removable gaskets like valve covers (and even oil pans) I have good luck using permatex (the blue RTV stuff) to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover, and then spread a thin layer on the opposite of the gasket, and then LET THE WHOLE MESS DRY before assembly.  Turns an old cork gasket into something like the new fangled silicon gaskets.

PaulB, I agree about that crap on oil screen. People that use that crap think if a little is good, a lot is better.

I have had good luck with the brush on Permatex aviation gasket sealer on the gaskets.  Where gaskets were are not available (and I didn't feel like making them), I use another Permatex product called "the right stuff".  Comes in a tube like silicone.  It is pretty pricey, but it goes on really thick and holds very well.  The blue RTV stuff is garbage compared to the right stuff.

Blue silicone is intended for coolant applications, not engine oil. I remember when I was going to Hawkeye Tech one of the guys in my class was putting a water pump on a mid 70s Dodge 318. He was having trouble getting it to not leak. The last attempt he put a bead of blue silicone on it and it didn’t leak. A week later he had head gasket problems. He pulled a few large threads of blue sealer out of steam holes in the block. I don’t know if that had anything to do with losing the head gaskets, but it surely didn’t help.
There are far better choices for sealer than the blue and black silicone. My choice is Motorcraft TA-31 that International used on the 6.9-7.3 oil pans. When both surfaces are clean, it bonds so strongly that it can be very difficult to break the seal. GM has a similar product that worked as well for intake end seals.
Whatever you choose to use, more is definitely not better.