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Jacob (WI,ND) 
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 Topic: My 1927 Allis 20-35
Posted: 17 Jul 2015 at 8:18pm |
Hi all!
I have some great news, I finally found myself a 20-35. I've been looking for one of these for a few years now, and finally came across one that was in my price range, the condition was what I was looking for (a project), and location and timing worked out!
It is a 1927. serial number 8861. Engine number 33554.
It was delivered last Thursday when I made a trip back home to be there for the big day. I got to spend three good days with Dad assessing the condition of everything and starting to fix a few things that need attention.
Here are a bunch of pics and a couple of videos:
It will need a lot of work, but so far I am very happy with it, and it shows much potential for being restored.
For the record, this one will be left in its original paint/patina for the foreseeable future. I have no interest in painting over that history, they are only original once...
So far we have taken apart the front wheels to get some bearing numbers. The bearings on the right side were robbed at some point, so we got some new ones ordered. Still having a hard time tracking down the dust cover on the outside of the bearing by the felt seal if anyone knows a source for this or has an original one for sale?
We took apart the steering box and got that all cleaned up. Everything looks very good, there is basically NO wear on the parts. The only thing we will have to do is drill and put a oversize pin in the worm gear to steering shaft joint, that one is a little loose and worn. Still have to get the drag link ends apart, they are stuck GOOD! I'm wondering if they have ever even been apart?
If you note the front axle pivot is different than normal, I'm guessing this is custom? But it seems I read somewhere that a few other people have this type of hook on the front of the old AC tractors, did I read this here at one time?
Pulled the transmission cover off and drained the goo that was in there out (took over a day). Dumped some diesel in there and started to clean things up, it's gonna take a while. So far what I can see looks good. It shifts beautifully and nothing growled or made any bad noises as we drug it to the barn.
Engine needs a lot of work, but we haven't gotten to that yet. One piston is missing. One head is missing all the valve train as well.
Took the governor and water pump off. The water pump is needing work. The shaft and impeller are shot, and were not even pinned to each other anymore. We are speculating that this may have been why the tractor was parked back in the day. Overheating issues?
The governor spins nice and the linkages work free, but we haven't gotten it taken apart yet.
This will be a long term project, but I wanted to show you all what I have been up to. I'll keep you updated on this post. Thanks, and any comments and suggestions are welcome, as I'm still learning about these big guys! I can tell you this though, I'm in love!
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 6:52pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Butch(OH)
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Location: Lucerne Ohio
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Posted: 17 Jul 2015 at 8:27pm |
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You will know that tractor inside and out when your done, Great project!
Lots of knowledge on the forum for that model so guidance is close at hand.
Good luck
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 17 Jul 2015 at 8:36pm |
I'll start a list of things I'm looking for here too. I have some leads on some of these things, but if you have any of this stuff for sale, PM or Email (in my info) me and we'll talk 
I'll update this as I collect the parts, so if it's still listed here, chances are I'm still looking, Thanks!
-Hood -One hood strap -Upper water manifold (that connects to the heads) -Magneto (Eisemann G4 is I believe what is needed, anticlockwise rotation I am told) -Magneto and Carb control quadrant and linkages (I think I have just one of the linkages) -Radiator shroud -All the valve parts and valve train for one head (assuming my head checks out ok to rebuild) -Oil gauge -One front hub cap (the one with three mounting holes) -inner bearing dust shield next to the felt washer -the wire piece that holds the radiator cap closed -two engine side covers -drawbar (We'll probably just make this) -toolbox -the pipe for the air cleaner -One piston (and who knows what else once we get into the engine?) -Sleeves
I'll add to this as I discover more things I need. Thanks!
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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LAG
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Location: Ferndale, WA
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Posted: 17 Jul 2015 at 9:18pm |
Jacob,
Congrats on your purchase. I have a '28 20-35 and just love it.
There's a pair of front hub caps for the 20-35 on e-bay right now. $55 or offer for the pair. They look good. I don't have the item number, but just search " allis-chalmers 20-35" and they'll pop up.
Les.
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'39 B,'28 20-35,'63 B-10, '85 920(diesel), Spoker D,Nickel D, AOS, GP, BR 2- 10-20 Titans, and brass era cars
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 17 Jul 2015 at 9:42pm |
Here is a little walk around video I did after I got it.
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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TedBuiskerN.IL.
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Posted: 17 Jul 2015 at 9:47pm |
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Norm Meinert can help you with many of the engine parts. I know he has valves, sleeves and pistons and manifolds. 815-238-4506
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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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Gary(WI)
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Posted: 18 Jul 2015 at 8:31am |
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Should have water manifold,hub cap, and the engine side covers. If interested give me a call Gary 920 two five three 8192
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Alberta Phil
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Posted: 18 Jul 2015 at 9:53am |
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You have a great project there! It has all the bits that are usually missing, especially the original air cleaner assembly. Congratulations on your find. I have a few of these tractors.
I noticed that one head has been replaced. You have one original with the priming cups on it and a later one without them. I have a parts '27 here and may have one of the original heads left. I have quite a few 20-35 parts also.
Norm Meinert is the source for many new replacement parts and also repairs on some parts.
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K.Novak
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Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 12:31am |
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Let the fun and games begin!!!!
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1934 WC SN# 2123,Factory WFE
1935 25-40 SN# 25557, TS
1938 WF SN# 506, Full Steel
1967 I400 SN# 1302
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Pat the Plumber CIL
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Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 7:01am |
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What are you going to name it ?
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You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails
1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF.
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K.Novak
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Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 3:40pm |
 Pat the Plumber CIL wrote:
What are you going to name it ? |
Looks like you're running out of names as your collection grows! 
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1934 WC SN# 2123,Factory WFE
1935 25-40 SN# 25557, TS
1938 WF SN# 506, Full Steel
1967 I400 SN# 1302
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 22 Jul 2015 at 8:19pm |
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 25 Jul 2015 at 6:22pm |
Hi all, I wanted to thank you all for the info and support and PM's so far, I've been checking out some parts with some of you, and haven't gotten around to contacting others yet, but I will.
Wanted to give you an update and ask some more questions. I've also uploaded a few more pages of pictures on my Google Photos account for those that care to check them out (link in first post).
I've disassembled the oil filter and cleaned it all up and put it back together. But I have some questions. This was not on the tractor when I got it, it just came with the tractor. First of all, in looking at other pics on the internet, my oil filter is different than most you see. There is no bolt running down through the center of the canister in mine, rather there are two bolts and a hand knob on the outside that clamp the canister down to the housing. Is this even the correct oil filter? It has original green paint on it, so I assume it is? It is a purOlator type B.
I understand that the top hole mounts to the valve lifter cover nut, but how does it mount to the tractor on the bottom? Is there a part missing? And what is the "horseshoe" cutout on the bottom mounting plate for?
I've also started to disassemble the carb. I haven't gotten it all apart yet, but so far things look decent. The one tube has a crack along the side of it, there is a picture of it. But other than that I haven't found anything broken.
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 6:54pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 31 Jul 2015 at 6:03pm |
Hi all,
Today was a good day! I got to spend a good chunk of my time calling fellow AC collectors and parts suppliers tracking down the things I need. I have to say, there is a great bunch of people here! I don't have any parts in my hand yet, but I have coordinated to get a good bunch of them at Turtle Lake WI GOTO in a couple of weeks. I also have a bunch of guys "checking out what they have" that are going to get back to me soon. 
As of right now, there are just a few things that I haven't been able to track down. So if you have any of the following, please let me know, Thanks!
-Control quadrant for the magneto and carb. I believe it should look like this one:
-An original Hood -A magneto, Eisman G4 anticlockwise rotation
But most of the other things I think I have taken care of.
If anyone can come up with a pic or info on how my particular oil filter mounts on the bottom, I would appreciate it, that search has been lacking so far...
Thanks all for the support and help!
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 6:55pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Dan73
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Posted: 31 Jul 2015 at 8:27pm |
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Wow really nice project you have there. It is really great to see these old girls come back to life. Great find!!!
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WDman1951
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Posted: 31 Jul 2015 at 8:32pm |
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Your from nd Jacob what part?
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 31 Jul 2015 at 9:28pm |
WDman1951 wrote:
Your from nd Jacob what part? |
I'm in Kenmare, ND  <---------- 
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 31 Jul 2015 at 9:28pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 21 Aug 2015 at 4:02pm |
Hi all,
Just thought I'd give you an update on my progress on my 20-35. I got to head home before the GOTO in Turtle Lake and spend a few days working on disassembling the engine. Dad and I got the entire block out of the tractor and stripped down except for the pistons and sleeves.
Every part of this tractor is HEAVY! LOL!
I posted a bunch more pics in my Google Photos if anyone is interested in checking them out.
We also got the radiator flushed out the first go around, I will end up taking the top and bottom tanks off and cleaning everything out well, because there was a whole mess of mouse nests that came out, ick....
Got the hand crank handle off the radiator bottom tank so the spinner could be freed up. Now we need to straighten it a bit and get the spinner welded up (broken).
Got one of the pins of the break band out, and still working on getting the other two out so we can get the break all free and working as it should.
Removed the oil pump from the oil pan, still need to free that up as it is stuck tight. Discovered that the oil pan, and the bottom cover on the pan were both cracked. But I got a replacement for both at the GOTO. I also picked up a fan shroud, a set of 5" pistons (plan to bore out my original 4 3/4" sleeves), and one connecting rod, also the water manifold, some valve train parts, and hood strap that I was missing. I got all of this from Matt Scott, so if you are ever looking for parts, ask Matt, he is a good guy to deal with! Thanks Matt! Gary also brought me the wire piece that holds the radiator cap shut, thanks Gary! I also bought me a slew of parts and gaskets from Norm, so I have actually rounded up the vast majority of the things I have been looking for so far.
I'm still on the hunt for the throttle quadrant that I mentioned in an earlier post (with pic). And some valve train parts. And a magneto.
I believe that I have solved the oil filter mystery, as it bolts up perfectly to the manifold bolts, and I found an ad that has a drawing of this type of filter. I also talked with a guy at the GOTO that says he has seen a couple of other tractors with this type of filter on them as well.
Got to meet and talk with a bunch of new people at the show, several of them are on the forum here. I actually spent more time talking than looking at tractors I think!
Lots of good headway was made, but there is still a long road ahead of me, thanks for all of the support so far!
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 6:56pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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littlemarv
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Posted: 22 Aug 2015 at 6:04am |
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So far, so good! Keep going!
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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ryanschott
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Posted: 22 Aug 2015 at 8:22pm |
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i have a model u with a continental motor that looks in the same shape but i dont have sleeves and that one looks the same my question is how did you get the pistons out i have been trying for ever even soaked them in everything. i have been pounding and beating and everything and cant get them out.
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 22 Aug 2015 at 8:42pm |
ryanschott wrote:
i have a model u with a continental motor that looks in the same shape but i dont have sleeves and that one looks the same my question is how did you get the pistons out i have been trying for ever even soaked them in everything. i have been pounding and beating and everything and cant get them out. |
Well Ryan,
I have actually not gotten the pistons out yet. This engine has removable sleeves like the smaller AC's do. So we are going to remove the sleeves with the pistons stuck in them from the block, then put them in the press to get them out.
The only reason we didn't get the sleeves out of the block is they are stuck in there good! We beat on them with a big chunk of hardwood and a sledgehammer and they didn't budge, so we are going to press them out of the block.
The kicker is, we didn't have a press to do this. So we set out to build one! We've been collecting "parts" (chunks of iron, etc....) to build one for years, but hadn't gotten around to it. So this was a good excuse to finally put the press together. We have it 98% done, just have to do the final little details, then we can use it.
I would imagine this would be a good option for you, to press them out. I have heard guys using a chunk of chain around the block and a porta power with some ingenuity and press them out that way. This might be an option for you too?
I have no experience with the Continentals, but think this would work. Be sure to start a post with your project if you haven't already, I love to see how others are progressing on there projects, it keeps me motivated to work on mine! Plus I like the U's and like seeing more info on them
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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ryanschott
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Posted: 22 Aug 2015 at 8:52pm |
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sorry the one pic looked like the pistons were missing. i need to take some more pics and update my progress even though it has been slow. i was thinking of cutting the piston down the side since i broken the top off one and see if i can somehow break the piston and then it should come out easy i just cant wreck the cylinder walls
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 22 Aug 2015 at 9:09pm |
ryanschott wrote:
sorry the one pic looked like the pistons were missing. i need to take some more pics and update my progress even though it has been slow. i was thinking of cutting the piston down the side since i broken the top off one and see if i can somehow break the piston and then it should come out easy i just cant wreck the cylinder walls |
Well, you are partially right. One of my four pistons is out. It was that way when I got it. Someone must have robbed some parts off of this tractor in a past life unfortunately.
I'd say some type of press or hydraulic jack setup would be best. Applying consistent even pressure is best in situations like this. You can beat on something all day and not have it move, but apply the even pressure in the correct place and it will come right apart (or go right together). That's why machinists use presses and not sledgehammers, right? "Work smarter, not harder" comes to mind
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 22 Aug 2015 at 9:18pm |
As long as we are talking working smarter and not harder, does anyone have any tips or tricks on how to get the lifters out of my block?
They are all stuck. This engine has been without ANY oil in it for what we can only presume is many many years. We keep soaking them in oil, but I'm not sure how the best way to free them up to get them out and clean them up is? With the cam in the way getting a good shot to punch them out from the bottom is hard. And the cam can not come out until the lifters are freed up, it's a catch 22.
Anyone been here and done that?
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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SHAMELESS
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Posted: 23 Aug 2015 at 4:21am |
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that's an excellent project for you....especially when you can do it with your DAD! enjoy! and keep the pics coming!
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 23 Aug 2015 at 5:16pm |
You're exactly right Shameless, working on this with Dad is making the project even more special for me. I just talked with him, he just about has the press done, just has to round up one more plate for the bottom of the jack, then we are in business.
He got the gas cap unstuck too! How do you like the setup he used? Ingenious I thought.
From what he says the tank is rusty, but only what you would expect to see, it should clean up. There is also a baffle in the tank from what he tells me, which I didn't know.
I worked on the governor this weekend. I got it taken apart and all cleaned up. It is amazing how much original paint is under the gunk and rust once you clean everything up!
Things look pretty good, there are a couple of pins that I will probably have to replace because they are worn fairly bad. But for as old as it is, it's really amazing things aren't in worse shape.
As usual, I added a handful more pics for you all to see what I've been up to, and what the inside of these old machines looks like.
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 7:03pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 1:16pm |
Hi all!
Time for another update, as progress has been good. I took another trip home and got some good wrenching time in on Big AL. The good news is I got a bunch of things done, the bad is that now I probably won't get a chance to go back until Christmas time.
I started by getting the break band and pedal assembly off of the tractor. Getting the pin out was a chore, as it was stuck tight. A tip for doing this, tape a nut onto the end of the pry bar to press the pin out. The band needs a new lining, but all else looks good.
I got the torch out and fixed and disassembled a few things.
I got the front left fender bracket straightened out, and a good chunk of the dented fender popped back out, but it still needs a ton of work.
Got both ends of the drag link taken apart.
Got the pivot pin for the front axle removed, and all the nuts off for the radius rods so that could be taken all apart. We straightened the one bent radius rod. Anyone know what the paint stripe on the back of the pivot point is about?
We were going to remove the steering spindles so new king pin washers can be done, but we ran out of Oxygen for the torch, so that put a stop to that.
Got the fan hub taken apart, so that can be cleaned up and put a new seal in it.
I removed the gas tank and started to clean that out. Put a chunk of chain in and started to slosh it around to get all the loose rust out. It is dirty. Unfortunately too, a hole appeared under where the rear mounting bracket goes on the bottom of the tank, so this will need to be fixed now too.
I took a big brass punch and knocked all the stuck lifters up so the cam could be removed from the block. The cam is looking good, but the lifters are all shot. Fortunately I already located another set of lifters.
Pressing the pistons out of the sleeves was a treat. They were stuck good! But they are all out now, so now the next step is to decide were to bring my sleeves to have bored out for my new 5" pistons.
Got the main shaft pressed out of the oil pump, but the other gear is still stuck.
I got the wire for the radiator cap fit. It needed to be trimmed down a bit. There must be more than one size of these wires? The one I got was only 5" between the ends, mine needed to be about 5 1/4". Another thing we've noted, that my rad cap has two slotted screws to hold the gasket and washer to the inside of the cap, where most have just the single hole with a rivet to hold the gasket. Is this a '27 difference again?
We also plugged the outlets for the radiator and filled it with vinegar to clean it out good before we disassemble it. After setting filled with vinegar for a few days we drained it and flushed it a bunch more. Found a couple of tiny leaks, but fortunately they are where the tank top and bottom meet the core, so should fix themselves with new gaskets I hope.
Things have been going good, and it was pointed out to me the other day that I have only had this tractor about 2 months at this point, so that makes me feel even better about the amount of progress that has been made. The pipe dream is to have this tractor up and running for next summers show season, but I know that we have a LONG way to go before that is going to happen.
If things go really good, I hope to get to put some things back INTO the block when I'm home for Christmas time, but we'll see......
As usual, I added a ton more pics to my Google Photos:
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 7:15pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 4:59pm |
I started another post looking for info on oil pressure gauges here:
check it out, thanks
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 6:03pm |
Ok, let's talk fan shrouds now,
I picked up this shroud for my tractor, but have now noticed a small difference between it and other shrouds on 20-35's.
On this shroud the inside lip (on the round hole) has a flat bend of 90* which has four square nuts welded to it, which we speculate was for a place to mount a screen or guard to protect you from putting your hand in the fan, like seen on the earlier tractors. There was an L at the GOTO in turtle lake with a guard like this, but I didn't get a pic. If this is the case, anyone have a pic of what this screen should look like?
Most shrouds I looked at on other 20-35's have this lip rolled over a small piece of wire so there is no means to fasten a guard in this location.
What is the story on this? Is this an early '27 difference thing again? Those with 20-35's, what does your tractor have on it?
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 25 Mar 2018 at 7:19pm
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1246
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Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 5:36pm |
Time for an update:
I was back home over the holidays and got some tractor wrenching time worked into the schedule.
Not sure where I left off, but as of now the engine has been completely broken down and I hauled all of the parts that need machining down to the machine shop. Hopefully this next week or so they will get a chance to look things over and get working on it. They are going to be boring out the original 4 3/4" sleeves to fit the new (used) 5" pistons. They are also going to work over the crank and all the bearings as needed. The cam, if good enough to regrind, will be reground. The heads will get new valve seats, and fly cut the head surfaces and manifold surfaces. The rocker arms will also need some rework from them being worn. So hopefully in a month or two I'll be making another quick trip home to get the finished parts. I'll keep you updated
While home I took apart the tie rod and drag link and cleaned them up and put them all back together, so they are ready to go now.
I also removed the one broken extension rim so it can be welded up.
We got a new bottle of oxygen for the torch, so we finished disassembling the front axle spindles. They need some new bushing, then they will be ready to reassemble as well.
Finally got the oil pump freed up. Letting things soak for a length of time here was the key. Once it was all apart, and cleaned up, things looked good so that was a nice surprise!
Like I mentioned, I had gotten the heads stripped down before bringing them to the machine shop.
My magneto is going to be headed to Matt Scott to rebuild in a couple of weeks when my sister is going through that way, and she'll pick up some more parts that I'll need from him.
My buddy Kyle came up to visit and see this project, and I sent him back with my governor. He is going to remake a few parts for it, so that should be back in tip top shape before long as well.
Things are starting to fall together it seems, I brought a few more little parts back with me to clean up when I have a minute. I'm feeling more confident about getting this tractor back together and running for show season this summer.
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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