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Dave in PA 
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Mars/Wexford PA
Points: 2627
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 Topic: A-C 917 ?
Posted: 26 Aug 2020 at 5:02pm |
So, my youngest son, is moving out! He and his other, 'girlfriend", got a house. So he bought a 1980 A-C 917 mower/tractor. I have seen it, and it looks good, has the maintenance records from day one, and from what he has said, runs great! SO he got the orange fever!!!!! The old owner, was older, pasted away, and a nephew was selling it for the family. So being said here, now for the questions. Is there anything that he needs to look out for? Is there anything he needs to do? Just want to try to not have any problems before they can start, and be a big issue. He also is looking for a rear hitch, cat 1, 3 point, what-ever was for the machine, sorry, I have not a clue here! Opps forgot to say, it has the Kohler 17 hp in it. The good thing here, he works for a large, national rental company, and does service, maintenance, and repairs on everything from skid-steers, to man-lifts, to generators, etc.. As AWAYS!!! Thanks to all, in advance for the help, and input!! Dave
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Dusty MI
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Charlotte, Mi
Points: 5058
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Posted: 26 Aug 2020 at 5:48pm |
I have an earlier one with the 2 cylinder opposed engine. The later ones have a V-2 engine. I have the hydro transmission, which I like but it has a leak somewhere. I have a mower deck, a rototiller, a dozer blade, and a snow blower, for mine. A couple of years ago I picked a Simplicity which looks just like the 917 except it says Simplicity on it and a different model label.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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AC720Man
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 4926
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Posted: 26 Aug 2020 at 9:34pm |
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Since its a 1980 model, it may have the series 1 engine. See if it has a series II decal on the right side of the engine on the engine cowl. If not it’s most likely a series 1. Still a good engine but be careful on banks or slopes as the oiling system doesn’t do well and can starve the engine of oil resulting in a rod sticking out the side of the block. The series II corrected that issue. I have had mine for 32 years. It was 5 years old when I purchased it from my local AC dealer. A trade in for a bigger model. The front seal was leaking and instead of fixing it the owner just kept putting oil in it until his son used it without checking the oil...rod out the side of the block. Thankfully the dealer put a brand new series II on it. It’s been a great tractor, until this week no issues besides regular maintenance. Looks like the rear seal is leaking so I am getting ready to pull the engine in order to repair. Mine is a hydro with a mower deck only. Change hydro oil and filter every 300 hours. Keeping clean oil in the hydro is important for smooth operation. I mow an acre and a half so it’s mowed a ton over the years.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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talntedmrgreen
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Jun 2013
Location: Caledonia, MI
Points: 477
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Posted: 28 Aug 2020 at 12:29pm |
As mentioned, the #1 callout for the 917 is the series 1 KT17 engine vs the series 2. A couple quick pictures of the tractor would easily identify which he has. The series 1 is prone to crank journal oil starvation when run along inclines. The series 2 corrected that. The series 2 does not always have a 'series II' decal denoting that variety. Below is a picture of one of my 917's and my 919, each with a series II.
These opposed twin engines are notorious for allow ags to flood into the crankcase, and the result is a hydrolock, blown out crank seals, etc. Install and use an in-line fuel shutoff valve if that is not already being done. Keep a watch on the oil, for telltale signs of diluted oil by way of oil level too high or smelling of gasoline.
The AC 917 never had a v-twin engine offered, howver the later AGCO 918 model used an 18hp Kohler v-twin. The 917 and it's borther, the 919 were fantastic machines, and the KT kohlers were very smooth and strong.
The last photo shows a rear lift kit for the 917. There was never a 3 point hitch offered for these. This lift kit attaches to all Simplicity manufactured attachments, and works with a sleeve hitch to raise all Brinly and similar style attachments. A rear lift will run $100-150. A sleeve hitch will run about the same. The rear lift is required for all rear attachment use, while the sleeve hitch is required only for some.
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Patterson B1*B1/B1Forklift*B10*BigTen/B1Loader*B110*B208*B206*616*Homelite T16H/T8/T7/RM7E*Landlord/Loader/Trencher*Broadmoor717*Serf525*2110*7790*Legacy XL*Twin 20*Squire9*Squire6*JCPenny 494
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Bird76Mojo
Silver Level
Joined: 12 Mar 2015
Location: Illinois
Points: 221
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Posted: 30 Aug 2020 at 8:42pm |
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I have a rear lift plate for sale. The black part shown in the above photo. It has the regular set screw shaft collar on it, but will need the "stepped" collar to fit the rear attachment point properly. That stepped collar is also shown in the above photo posted by Mr Green. The round black part..
I'd do $50 for it plus USPS shipping.
Edited by Bird76Mojo - 30 Aug 2020 at 8:46pm
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WEL(TN)
Silver Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: East Central IN
Points: 211
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 6:10am |
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Regarding your comment about gas getting into the crankcase, the only way I can think that could happen is through a faulty diaphram in the fuel pump. A shut off valve in the fuel line is a good idea but I would be inclined to replace the fuel pump first.
Edited by WEL(TN) - 31 Aug 2020 at 6:11am
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ac fleet
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jan 2014
Location: Arrowsmith, ILL
Points: 2319
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Posted: 06 Sep 2020 at 1:39pm |
gotta be bad fuel pump! No other way for gas to get in there. Check valves in fuel pump bad and or carb float needle not holding. My 917 -h has an M-18 Kohler in it. came with sleeve hitch and 5 pieces of equipment.
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http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/
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Dave in PA
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Mars/Wexford PA
Points: 2627
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Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 2:50pm |
UPDATE!! So it is the older engine, no pressurized oil, etc. And yes he has a steep hill-side to cut. He has been doing it, but it has a fuel issue, and only can cut one way, or up and down. So with that said, him being in a job of repairs on rental equipment, he is looking into a replacement swap out, before it blows/rod/block/failure. Has anyone done this? He has the tools and knowledge to do the work. He looked at "Smallenginewarehouse", but might be a bit pricey, for their kit? He can get engines through work, he thinks cheaper in price, (same engine), but not sure what all the "kit" includes. He does know that there is some spacer issues, in the output height that is needed from what he seen. But for a few bucks different, maybe lots of money, he can get and do the extras on his own? Wiring should not be a issue. And as always, THANKS for any input and help!! Dave
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A-C_220
Bronze Level
Joined: 05 Jan 2019
Location: Canada
Points: 92
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Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 7:06pm |
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Do you know if he looking at a Briggs Vanguard swap or a Kohler Command?
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Dave in PA
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Mars/Wexford PA
Points: 2627
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Posted: 13 Sep 2020 at 7:52am |
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He is looking at the Briggs.
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