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175 Diesel Hydraulic valves | 
 
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   TomYaz  
   
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     Topic: 175 Diesel Hydraulic valvesPosted: 20 Aug 2020 at 11:46am  | 
 
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   So as I tear down in order to be able pull the final drive to get to the frozen brakes...I took off the hydraulic controls.  Assuming they are not working, what are the options out there for repair/rebuild?
    
   
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     If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!
     
   
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   DrAllis  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 12:09pm | 
 
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You might be pleasantly surprised !!  If the rubber dust plugs were still installed at the rear of each spool, that should have kept rainwater out. If not, I'd stand the valves on end and fill each rear spool cavity with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few days. Polish the exposed front of the spools to get rid of any rust. Try them and see if they will move and detent.
    
   
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   TomYaz  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 12:15pm | 
 
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   They do move but not sure they move to all positions.. not sure what I am to expect when it comes to movement to begin with.
    
   
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   DrAllis  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 12:28pm | 
 
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Well, you need to sit in the seat of any D17 IV, 170-175-180-185-190-200-210-220 or 7000. They are the nicest operating levers ever made.
    
   
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   TomYaz  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 1:32pm | 
 
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   Well I *think* the problem is I am unable to push the valve rod all the way into the valve body... when one pushes it in as far as it goes there is a length of it that is still exposed and is "shiny"...if that is all she gots that part should be good and rusty by now....
    
   
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   DrAllis  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 1:47pm | 
 
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4-positions on the remotes....raise-hold-lower-float.
    
   
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   TomYaz  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 1:51pm | 
 
   
   
 Yeah I can only seem to find 3.  Which position  would have the shaft the most into the housing? 
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   Joe(TX)  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 2:14pm | 
 
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While off, check all the linkage to make sure the levers move freely on their shafts. Especially the one the pushes in the position spool which relies on the spring to return.
    
   
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     1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
     
   
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   TomYaz  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 2:16pm | 
 
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   Joe, 
   
  I do have at least one whose linkage is frozen...I know for sure that there is an issue with a couple of of them. 
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     If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!
     
   
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   DrAllis  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 3:17pm | 
 
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Three detents....four positions. Sounds right to me.  Raise is the full in position and it isn't 100% in.
    
   
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   DSeries4  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 9:11pm | 
 
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    Make sure EVERY pivot point in the linkage is well lubricated and moves freely by hand - not by moving the levers!  If the valve body leaks a lot AGCO sells a kit to replace every O ring and seal.  I did it on mine and it made a world of difference. However, I did have one hydraulic section I had to replace.  It's hard to describe, but it was very hard to move and would kind of only work one way.  Used it on the loader for several years that way.  We had to switch the hoses around to get it to lift and used the float position for it to lower.  Our hydraulic shop couldn't repair it, but they got us a new section for around $100.  | 
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     '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185,  '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
     
   
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   TomYaz  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 9:31pm | 
 
   
   
 Yep will do...how hard is it to replace those sections?  Would new ones fit right? Dont no why I am asking...I am sooooo far away from worrying about the hydraulics as there is so much to be done,,,IF I decide to do anyhting at all...My goal this summer is to get the wheel moving so I can drag it under cover...then take the head off and see what I am dealing with.... 
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   DSeries4  
   
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     Posted: 20 Aug 2020 at 9:42pm | 
 
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   Best to take the whole valve body off.  Each section is sandwiched together with 4 lengths of threaded rod.  There are also big O rings between each section.  Not a hard job.  New one was a perfect fit, but does not have the locking detent to keep the valve open. 
   
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     '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185,  '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
     
   
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