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D17 Thermostat Questions |
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Oldwrench
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Jan 2020 Location: Northeast Points: 133 |
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Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 8:38am |
After a thorough cleaning of the radiator on my D17 IV, the engine has been running way too cool. Those little 1/4" bolts weren't about to come loose easily, so I removed the entire housing and did manage to get them out with some heat and soaking while twisting only one off. I assumed the thermostat was bad, so I ordered a new 180 deg one. It is the 2 piece style with a rubber gasket. However, it looks quite a bit different from the old one, which is "taller" and has some ports that appear to let the water through into the bypass before it opens. The replacement one looks like any other modern thermostat. Also rather oddly, the old one appears to be stuck in the closed position rather than open, so I don't know why the engine is running so cold (it is full of coolant, no leaks and the temp gauge was an aftermarket one I put in a few years ago). However, I still need to stick it into a pan of water and see at what temp it actually does open. It is just odd that the engine runs to cold, unless a lot of flow is going to bypass.
So I guess my question is, is a modern "small" thermostat a suitable replacement for the original AC one, and should I go with a 160 or a 180 deg thermostat? For modern engines from the 60's up, 180 deg was always the way to go (and later to 195 on auto engines), so I assume a 180 engine temp is fine for the newer D17 IV. |
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Bret (OH)
Silver Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Blanchester, OH Points: 347 |
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Bret (OH)
Silver Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Blanchester, OH Points: 347 |
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Looks like after some research, all the replacements use the two piece design. It must work. The thermostat should be closed and assembled so that it blocks the flow to the upper radiator hose until the 180 degrees is reached and the poppet opens. The coolant should always have access to circulate through the bypass weather open or closed. Edited by Bret (OH) - 04 Jun 2020 at 1:14pm |
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Oldwrench
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Jan 2020 Location: Northeast Points: 133 |
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Thanks for the diagram and information. I checked the old thermostat in a pot of water on the stove and it opens at 180 degrees. I 'm going to study how everything fits together that would allow the coolant to bypass the thermostat to run so cool. The black round gasket appears to be ok. Interesting. It isn't rocket science but I'm curious what is going on. Should have left the radiator dirty I suppose.
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ac45dave
Orange Level Access Joined: 23 May 2015 Location: SE(IN) Points: 1341 |
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Have you checked the accuracy of your temp gauge?
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54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors
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SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8353 |
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Check block and radiator tanks with infrared gun.....probably not running as cold as you thought and a dirty radiator is not the answer.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 05 Jun 2020 at 8:32am |
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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Those new 3 piece style thermostats do work just fine. I have them in both of my gas tractors. The D17D has a genuine Agco part in it. You want the 180 minimum, preferably a 195. The 160 was for use back when antifreeze was alcohol based. A hot engine runs cleaner, more efficiently, does not wear as fast, and doesn't foul plugs.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Oldwrench
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Jan 2020 Location: Northeast Points: 133 |
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Thanks for everyones' help on this. I am now officially confused. The new 3 piece thermostat I had purchased from Steiner (thermostat, adapter collar and black rubber gasket) does not fit into the thermostat housing, as far as I could tell. Here are photos showing the original thermostat along with the new one. I could see how the smaller new thermostat has to fit into the brass adapter, and would be the right height so the rubber gasket would seal at the top. However, the brass adapter is simply too large to fit into the recess of the housing. Perhaps they sent me the wrong part number, although it looks identical to the D17 thermostats on other vendors websites.
I tested the original thermostat in a pan of hot water, and it opens at ~ 180 deg and seems to be functioning ok. After cleaning everything up, I put the old one back in. It does seem to be working, as using an oven thermometer, the water circulating in the top tank is ~ 160 + deg. It does seem the gauge is wrong, as it is showing half-way below 160 deg in the white region. So idling the engine brings the water temp up to 160. Once I work it, the gauge does get up into the green above 160 deg. So it seems that with the clean radiator the engine is only barely getting up to temp at idle, which is not surprising. I'll be ordering a replacement temp gauge, although at least I know everything is functioning correctly now. It is odd that the new 3 piece thermostat is incorrect. Either they sent the wrong part, or I was too stupid to figure it out. Edited by Oldwrench - 08 Jun 2020 at 10:01am |
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SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8353 |
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did you get one for a diesel VS a gas?
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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That thermostat will work. Glue the rubber ring to the outlet side of the thermostat with some 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. The thermostat sits on the brass saddle. I prefer to glue the gasket to the housing. Makes for one less loose part to have to hang on to as you put it together.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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