7040 powershift problems

That same thing happened to our 8050 powershift. Sounds like the nut on the end of the input shaft failed or bearing failed. We took the valve body off the right hand side of the tractor, then you can stick a bar into the transmission under the main shaft, if you have up and down play a split is the only way to fix it. Sorry about the bad news.
Leon B Mo

You say it will pull in reverse high range. There is no reason that it shouldn't be able to pull in low range if it will pull high range. That being said, if there's any oil dripping from the bellhousing, the big nut is probably loose. Removal of the right side fuel tank and then the power shift valve assembly will allow you to reach in from the side and get a long pry bar under the front clutch packs and see if you can move it up and down. You should get very little movement, like pretty near zero movement. If the nut has backed off it will obviously move.

Could have shared bolts off in clutch housing. What ever it is, it's a complete rebuild.            MACK

Ok thanks for the info

Good info thanks im not much of a mechanic so i was sorta hoping it be something simple like a filter plugged or something like that

No sir

I am looking for someone to fix this problem for me. I am from the UK, London webcam live. But actually, location does not matter as you can get access to my computer in a remote mode through different tools. You just need to have a few spare minutes. I would be very grateful if someone can at least diagnose the issue. Let me know if you are ready to devote some time to me.

Edited by fioolsk - 05 Nov 2020 at 1:51pm

My 7040 just stopped pulling and I pulled valve body and I got 3 bolts in bottom.

Yes I do

Power steering working means torque limiter on the flywheel is OK fine.   Broken 3/8" diameter bolts at the suction screen is bad.  5/16" bolts at the suction screen are from the shifting valve and not nearly as serious.

This is no small task, especially for a novice. Both fuel tanks need to be removed. Split at the back of the engine (support engine with long dowel bolts thru side frames lower holes) and roll the front end ahead about 10 feet. Raise the front of the cab an inch or so and support it. Split a second time at the rear end housing and roll the 30 inch long transmission out from under the cab. Begin the tear down. Some special tools are needed.

Edited by DrAllis - 29 Sep 2024 at 3:39pm

Special tooling made by OTC for Allis-Chalmers dealerships. Many I could get by without but one large diameter deep socket for the front clutch pack is kind of important, but you might be able to get by without it. Special clutch pack clips to squeeze the discs/plates/wave springs together are helpful too.

just wondering ? what do these three bolts hold together , is their somthing that could be pm'd at so many hours before they broke or fell out 

The most important special tool needed is a good, original service manual. It gives a detailed description of the steps to do that job. It also shows the factory special tools that are almost essential to do this. On a side note, I roll the engine and transmission assembly out from the tractor and then remove the transmission from the engine once it's clear.

Ok thank you I m going to fix my 200 first that old girl has only role once in20 years and it was me over tightening hydronic pump