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NNYACAL 
Bronze Level
Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: RICHVILLE, N.Y.
Points: 101
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 Topic: wd45 shift tower
Posted: 15 May 2020 at 5:49pm |
Allis experts I have three wd45's with loose shifting towers I have read in previous posts that the problem is in the shifting stick but i bought a new one and it didn't solve any problems. If you pull the stick out and line up the gates you can sometimes being very careful shift it, but if you put it in 4th or reverse the stick gets loose and does nothing and you can't get it back in without taking the stick out and lining up the gates again. I'm sure the top of the tranny has to come off but what do I look for as far as wear goes? I have two wd's and a couple wc's with no trouble. HELP!!!  |
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G,IB,B,C,CA,RC,WC,WF,WD,WD45,D14,D17SERIES 1,2,4
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8236
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Posted: 15 May 2020 at 6:33pm |
(I am defenitly not a expert on these ,but as usual will put in my 2 cents) Your on the right track for sure, I had my WD45 all fixed up and this worn shifter thing was not going to cut it! If I can help let me know. I do know they can have several areas worn in the shifter forks. Mine had a similar issue. I would bring it out of fourth and it would get stuck in low with the shift lever flopping around. I did do a thread on the repairs on mine. I hope some of that may help. What I really found that I think may have been the biggest problem was the ball and its seat were very worn. I made some fixes that maybe others would not approve of. Like adding weld on the ball. But what this did was to raise the shifter back up to the correct height. Then most of the slots where the shift lever ball engages were worn and needed welded too. The ball detents and cross pins can be a challenge. Just remember someone put it together. You can do this! By the way I have tested on my WD45 reworked shift tower and it works very good now. Was well worth the effort. Another member just rebuilt his too, so there are several threads on this. I remember one 45 on the farm which would have been only 10 years old already had the problem. Multiply that x another 40 years on these and a lot of them are worn a lot. My reverse spring lock out tab was completely gone. Maybe this link will work? Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 15 May 2020 at 7:03pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Dusty MI
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Charlotte, Mi
Points: 5054
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Posted: 15 May 2020 at 6:58pm |
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We had, my dad, one of the last WD's, the shift lever was like the 45's. The whole transmission was probably a 45. The dealer had it for a demonstrator. Anyway we had a problem with the transmission the first year, it would get stuck in 1st gear. Don't remember for sure what was done but I think the shift lever was replaced. Didn't have any problem after that.
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
Points: 33779
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Posted: 15 May 2020 at 9:32pm |
The update for those were to drill a second hole in the tower and put a second pin in and cut another slot in the ball for it. Our 45 was so worn that I welded up the ball like Surgarmaker did, welded the end of the shift lever wider and larger, and I put concaved washer down in the bottom of the tower for the shift to sit on. and then the snap ring and the top hold down bushing were snug. also put in the second pin too. Been that way now since the early 80's
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8236
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Posted: 16 May 2020 at 5:49am |
JC, Glad to see I wasn't the only one to weld on one of these old shift levers. And yes I have added the second pin to help stabilize the shift lever. I do think that helps a lot too. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sanchez
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Joined: 01 Apr 2020
Location: Alberta
Points: 47
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Posted: 16 May 2020 at 10:44am |
I've also got some shifter work to do, I've added a second slot to the shifter ball and cut a few new pins, I just need to weld up the old slot after I finish cleaning out some braze from a previous repair. Hopefully I can get away without removing the tower for rework but I'll take it one step at a time. Many thanks to Sugarmaker and others for their help.  
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8236
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Posted: 16 May 2020 at 7:56pm |
Sanchez, Welcome. Keep us informed of your progress. While the shift lever is out take a good look down in the tower. Look for worn areas on the forks. Is it a WD? Yes a mig welder should work just fine and better than braze to form a new slot. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Nathan (SD)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Day County SD
Points: 1260
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Posted: 17 May 2020 at 10:24pm |
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If the shifter ball is wore out the gates usually are too.
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Brian G. NY
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: 12194
Points: 2232
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 8:54am |
 Nathan (SD) wrote:
If the shifter ball is wore out the gates usually are too. |
Probably true.......a little "cut and fit" when building up the ball on the end of the shifter will snug things up a little and help alleviate the problem. Essentially, making the ball oversize.
As for the "pivot pin" in the top of the tower, all the WD-45s I've seen have two and all the WDs had only one. Maybe some of the early "curved shifter" transmissions had only one pin and if so, the installation of a second one is a much needed improvement as the curve in the shifter lever causes lateral stress there that a straight shifter doesn't. Oversized pivot pins are listed in the parts manual but I made my own by drilling the holes to 5/16" and grinding the head of a grade 5 bolt to fit the somewhat worn slot.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 9:34am |
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I oft times find the socket in the shift tower is worn, allowing the shift lever to sink down lower than it should be. In that case, I usually weld around the bottom of the shift lever and grind to shape to move it back up a bit. The second rotational pin is a must. An oversized pin for the left side is a good idea, as it can be ground to fit the groove and the round pin will take up the slack in the cover tower..
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