6080 rebuild

From what I understand they had 14:1 and 16:1 compression ratios.  16:1 starts much much better. 

Sounds like you have multiple projects happening. If you are going to do a engine swap, the hood, radiator and anything else upfront will need to be removed. Anything that will be in the way of the engine being pulled. Do you have any idea what condition the main clutch and pto clutches are in? It would be wise to replace both at this time especially if it has quite a few hours on it. The clutches don’t hold up that well if not kept adjusted or abused. They are not that expensive. They are a bear to line back up if you split the tractor. What ever you do never try to force it back together or you will bend the clutch...trust me I know. It should slip back together with some wiggling. Make sure you use a clutch alignment tool. Good luck.

Is there a way to tell if you have 16-1 pistons?

lowell66dart

i would think this one is 16 to 1 ratio... its the 433I. i know when i took the head off valve number 2 is cracked so where just going to replace all of them. not sure the best way to do that thinking going to have to have a big press to put the sleeves in


Edited by ecarmich25 - 11 Apr 2020 at 8:42pm

The front driveline has a coupler at the front and middle of it.  There is a snap ring against each of them.  Loosen the snap ring on each and slide it to the end of the splines then you can slide the collars toward the center of the driveline and it will drop out.

Mikez wrote: Ok so if you were to buy an engine kit for 6080, can you get a 16-1 kit for 6080.

Use guide bolts on each side to align the block to to clutch housing. Cut the heads off and slip engine into place. Makes a world of difference.       Leon

Click the log in as guest

Yes you have to loosen the bolts on each of the bearing forks then rotate them out.  Soak them with your favorite lube and let it set and work in.  I would sure replace both of the release bearings and the pilot bearing while you have it apart, if you don't know how old they are.

Good question , Im pretty sure by pics , they bought the stuff from Fiat and assembled them in West Allis

Fiat provided the chassis from the flywheel housing on back, including the clutch assembly. A-C did the engine, adapter plate, side frames, hood, radiator, air cleaner, batteries, front support, front axle, etc. Some of the hydraulic system was AC and some was Fiat. I think the platform/fuel tank/fenders were A-C.

Make sure you don’t have parts of the flex ring plugging things up. I’d also change out the o ring on throttle shaft. You also need to pull tank and clean it out.   6080’s are famous for getting crap in the fuel.

First thing I would have done is check the crank end play - these engines should have had a front brg setup on them to relieve the thrust from the clutches - few understood this and fewer are maintained.  The latest production had a wide thrust flange and different crank, these would wear out as well if the foot clutch and pto were depressed while cranking. No use starting a swap unless the crank is good.  My 2 cents worth... over .008 ,,,, bad news..