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TomYaz 
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Location: PA
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 Topic: All-Crop Rebuild Pic-O-The-Day
Posted: 09 Oct 2010 at 5:31pm |
Well,
Here is the thing-a-ma-jig on top of the cylinder and the old one it replaced. Reused the angles, sheet metal is new. Boot came painted already in case you wondered why it was orange. Now dont you correct nazis start clucking over the welds. This is going to be a working machine, not a trailer queen, and since I am in bizness I have to use the most efficient methods possible. Punching and re-doing solid rivets aint one of them.
Edited by TomYaz - 09 Oct 2010 at 5:32pm
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Bee
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Posted: 09 Oct 2010 at 5:38pm |
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AC owners manuals state "thingamagigs" are always to be welded.
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Bob, North Carolina
1949 B
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TomYaz
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Posted: 09 Oct 2010 at 6:31pm |
 Bee wrote:
AC owners manuals state "thingamagigs" are always to be welded. |
There ya go, I rest my case! LOL!
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norm [ind]
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Posted: 09 Oct 2010 at 6:39pm |
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as i remember they were not welded on the originals
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TomYaz
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Posted: 09 Oct 2010 at 7:05pm |
norm [ind wrote:
as i remember they were not welded on the originals |
(Bee was kidding)
Thats why I said:
"Now dont you correct nazis start clucking over the welds."
Now hush! LOL!
Edited by TomYaz - 09 Oct 2010 at 7:05pm
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TedBuiskerN.IL.
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 9:58am |
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I have two NOS of those sitting in my barn, along with many other all-crop parts.
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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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TomYaz
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 11:09am |
TedBuiskerN.IL. wrote:
I have two NOS of those sitting in my barn, along with many other all-crop parts. |
Are you sayin they are for sale?
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Rawleigh
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 12:00pm |
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Tom: Build it like a hotrod - better than the original. There are points on them that can be improved. Don't be afraid to do it. It is a working machine, not a restoration. Use modern methods and materials.
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TomYaz
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 2:11pm |
Rawleigh wrote:
Tom: Build it like a hotrod - better than the original. There are points on them that can be improved. Don't be afraid to do it. It is a working machine, not a restoration. Use modern methods and materials. |
Were gonna try..
First off the side panels on either side of the cylinder will be heavier guage and of one piece construction.
The concave will be bolted in so it can be removed easier. Same with the thingamajig pictured.
Reinforced the bottom of the new concave where the bolts are dropped for the concave bars. When I am thru with my stock of concaves I am going to make a thicker set.
There is a piece of metal that is in the front of the concave that sits below the shelling plate. The newer drapers can sometime get stuck trying to clear it. Going to make the new one that provides more draper clearence.
The two large pulleys in the back replaced with a heavier solid one piece construction version.
Safer, modern style PTO connection.
******************************
There are some other things I would like to address but wont on this one.
They are:
Making it easier to remove the cleaning shoe frame without haveing to take out the seive and chaffer and bending the frame...
Perhaps doubleing the number of grain elevaltor cups, increasing number of tailing paddles and grain drag bars, all to help handle heavier yields.
Higher grain unloading auger.
Any other suggestions?
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JohnCO
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Posted: 10 Oct 2010 at 11:34pm |
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I would strongly suggest putting some kind of door on the bottom of the clean grain cross auger to make clean out easier. I can't say I'm all impressed with the draper system, it's expensive and a real pain to put on and take off. A modern feeder house with a chain system would be much better (and expensive to build) Also a grain tank twice as big as the original would be a real help, not to mention a longer unloading auger to get into higher trucks or grain wagons.
my 2 cents.
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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TomYaz
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 6:08am |
JohnCO wrote:
I would strongly suggest putting some kind of door on the bottom of the clean grain cross auger to make clean out easier. I can't say I'm all impressed with the draper system, it's expensive and a real pain to put on and take off. A modern feeder house with a chain system would be much better (and expensive to build) Also a grain tank twice as big as the original would be a real help, not to mention a longer unloading auger to get into higher trucks or grain wagons.
my 2 cents.
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Yeah your right on that cross auger. Longer auger already noted. On your other suggestions, they are to the extant that a whole re-design would be in order.
On your draper complaint. I know it was recommended practice to take the draper off becasue of rodents and the fact that the draper wouldnt hold up if combine stored outside. (but rarely have I bought a combine with the draper all rolled up)
With the new rubberized ones I got to wonder if rodents would be so much an issue for two reasons:
1.Dont think they like the taste of rubber
2.If combine was cleaned out, wont attract so many of them.
With that in mind and assuming the combine is cleaned and stored inside, is taking the
draper off so important? Anybody seen a rubberized draper eaten?
Edited by TomYaz - 11 Oct 2010 at 6:08am
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Jim Lindemood
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 7:22am |
Tom - you are making progress. Going to be a nice machine when you are done.
I have had your rubberized draper on now for 3 years and has not been bothered by the critters. I do not clean it out as well as I should (hate to admit) because it is always late when I finish -- put in barn and intend to really clean out well the next day. That never seems to happen -- LOL. When I get around to it, the critters have already taken up residence - but so far not bothered the draper. Reminds me - need to clean out this years beans.
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 7:28am |
Hmmm.... I was just talking with a fellow about ways to keep the rodentia out of my machines - didn't realize that converting them to rubber would do the trick!! LOL
Tom, I am not into these machines, but it surely looks like nice work from where I'm sitting. Good for you.
Edited by Dave(inMA) - 11 Oct 2010 at 7:28am
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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clovis
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 8:25am |
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Nice work, Tom!!! I like it!!!!
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Lonn
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 11:39am |
Man I envy you Tom.
I have seen mice chew rubberized canvases I bought for my Owattonna swather. They were still serviceable so I bought them but they were chewed some. What do the CH people do with these big draper headers they use? For me it works best with two people working to put them on.
#1 is to carefully thread it through in the right direction
#2 then install the bar and little bolts
#3 insert flaps through bar
#4 use a vise grips to hold in place while tightening bolts
#5 put tension on draper by moving tension levers
#6 realize you put it in the wrong direction
#7 undo and remove everything
#8 making sure it's really in the right direction and repeat steps 1 thru 5 one more time
#9 crack a beer
Not too hard.
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TomYaz
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 1:28pm |
Lonn wrote:
Man I envy you Tom.
I have seen mice chew rubberized canvases I bought for my Owattonna swather. They were still serviceable so I bought them but they were chewed some. What do the CH people do with these big draper headers they use? For me it works best with two people working to put them on.
#1 is to carefully thread it through in the right direction
#2 then install the bar and little bolts
#3 insert flaps through bar
#4 use a vise grips to hold in place while tightening bolts
#5 put tension on draper by moving tension levers
#6 realize you put it in the wrong direction
#7 undo and remove everything
#8 making sure it's really in the right direction and repeat steps 1 thru 5 one more time
#9 crack a beer
Not too hard. |
Yeah its a joy! That "deck" on the 66 makes it a real treat. Solution: take off the deck and lay the bottom down, put deck back on. Unfortunately I didnt have the pleasure of
putting my new ones on this summer as I got permission from the owner of a 72 I had just fixed up (just field ready) to take it out on a test in my crop. The 66 then became a fanning mill for the harvest as I was unable to put a finishing screen in the 72. Whew that was close!
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Rawleigh
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 3:19pm |
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Tom: Did you auger it in the side door for your cleaning? I have shoveled grain through the side door to clean it before.
I used round baler belting to replace the canvas strips on the sides of the cleaning shoe and replaced the wooden block bearings with Delrin blocks.
Edited by Rawleigh - 11 Oct 2010 at 3:22pm
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TomYaz
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Posted: 11 Oct 2010 at 3:27pm |
Rawleigh wrote:
Tom: Did you auger it in the side door for your cleaning? I have shoveled grain through the side door to clean it before.
I used round baler belting to replace the canvas strips on the sides of the cleaning shoe and replaced the wooden block bearings with Delrin blocks.
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Yep. Worked pretty good!
Delrin? never heard of it and researched it..sounds like a good replacement for the wood wear parts in the seperator...
Edited by TomYaz - 11 Oct 2010 at 3:30pm
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