37WC Steering shaft U-joint

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   My WC steering U joint appears to be a permanent sealed  type with no grease fitting.  No snap rings.   It is in good shape except for the pin bore to the worm gear shaft was allowed to get sloppy and wore the hole out.  I think it had already been drilled oversize.
They are in the $100 range to but complete from aftermarket suppliers .  I was thinking about trying to disassemble and fill the pin hole with lead or brass and redrill.   The big worm shaft bore was not too bad.  Replacing the old style pins with roll pins like the newer tractors.

I suspect this is not the original yoke bearings for a 1937 tractor, the bearings just seem to be too good compared to other wear parts.   DJs Tractor shows a rebuild kit for less than $20 but not sure how universal they fit.  Most of the pictures show a snap ring style yokes  with grease fitting in the cross if it is rebuildable style.   I may be able to get it apart without ruining the seals, may try that before I order a new U joint.

It is easy to work on this now because the engine is still on the floor.  Looks like access is not very easy after the engine is back in place.  Good news was that since it had been moving around a bit, it was easy to slide apart when I pulled the engine.  Even getting off the steering shaft was not too bad.

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Rick of HopeIN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1324	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rick of HopeIN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 37WC Steering shaft U-joint Posted: 03 Apr 2020 at 8:48pm
	My WC steering U joint appears to be a permanent sealed type with no grease fitting. No snap rings. It is in good shape except for the pin bore to the worm gear shaft was allowed to get sloppy and wore the hole out. I think it had already been drilled oversize. They are in the $100 range to but complete from aftermarket suppliers . I was thinking about trying to disassemble and fill the pin hole with lead or brass and redrill. The big worm shaft bore was not too bad. Replacing the old style pins with roll pins like the newer tractors. I suspect this is not the original yoke bearings for a 1937 tractor, the bearings just seem to be too good compared to other wear parts. DJs Tractor shows a rebuild kit for less than $20 but not sure how universal they fit. Most of the pictures show a snap ring style yokes with grease fitting in the cross if it is rebuildable style. I may be able to get it apart without ruining the seals, may try that before I order a new U joint. It is easy to work on this now because the engine is still on the floor. Looks like access is not very easy after the engine is back in place. Good news was that since it had been moving around a bit, it was easy to slide apart when I pulled the engine. Even getting off the steering shaft was not too bad.
	1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless

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Rick of HopeIN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1324	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rick of HopeIN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 9:15am
	Got it cleaned up better this morning now I see this type had retaining rings on the inside of the yoke. Groove in the cups. I will probably pull apart and try to reuse everything. As far as I can tell the old books did not call out any maintenance on these joints so they must be pretty good.
	1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless

Rick of HopeIN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1324	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rick of HopeIN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 9:19am
	I am guessing but this appears to be the correct repair kit for it. https://stores.djstractorparts.com/steering-shaft-cross-and-bearing-u-joint-ab-2507d/
	1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless

Bill Long Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bel Air, MD Points: 4556	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bill Long Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 7:59pm
	On the WC steering U-joint the problem we had with them was not in the Joint but in the steering shaft itself. The holes in the shaft would wear egg shaped. To correct the problem - remember this is in the 30's money was TIGHT - we would over drill the hole in the joint and the shaft to make them round again. Put in the right size bolt and it worked for a while. I drove one about 6 miles home with a wobbly front wheel. Was a challenging trip. Good Luck! Bill Long

GARY(OH/IN) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 19 May 2010 Location: Findlay,Ohio Points: 917	Post Options Post Reply Quote GARY(OH/IN) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 3:33am
	Back in the 60's Dad bought an unstyled WC w/ cultivators at auction for $130. All good except steering so bad you couldn't keep it on the corn row. Still better than running a JD A with hand lift cultivators.

B26240 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3860	Post Options Post Reply Quote B26240 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 6:16am
	As far into it as you are and your effort to do a good job I suggest removing shaft from steering box and weld hole shut, then do the same with u-joint, redrill 3/8 inch and use roll pin. A machine shop or someone with a milling machine can drill the holes on center for you. Do not use lead to fill holes it will only last about 5 min.

JoeM(GA) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Cumming,GA Points: 4656	Post Options Post Reply Quote JoeM(GA) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 8:24am
	If you go back together with bolts instead of pins, be sure to give the wheel a couple of spins to be sure either end of the bolt doesn’t hit the frame before you call it good. It doesn’t hurt to run a safety wire through the pin if you’re gonna use a roll pin, not something you want to have fall out while you’re driving along
	Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB

Alvin M Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 24 Jun 2018 Location: PA Points: 765	Post Options Post Reply Quote Alvin M Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 9:01am
	I Use Double Roll Pins

Rick of HopeIN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1324	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rick of HopeIN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 9:34am
	When I repaired my governor shaft I used a roll pin as you say, drilled the hole just slightly larger. I did not safety wire that one but seemed plenty tight. I have a new worm shaft being made as it was worn pretty bad in same areas and not worth saving. I will try the welding shut trick as you suggest on the yoke that was egged out. I did that on a throttle lever and was surprised how well it worked. I suspect this tractor will have an easy life. Not familiar with double roll pins, think it needs more than a standard pin? I thought the later tractors like the WD switched to a roll pin so figured that would be strong enough. Thought about using some loctite or Devcon on the worm gear just to make double sure. Edited by Rick of HopeIN - 05 Apr 2020 at 9:47am
	1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless

Alvin M Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 24 Jun 2018 Location: PA Points: 765	Post Options Post Reply Quote Alvin M Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 9:39am
	Put One Pin Inside The Other One

Rick of HopeIN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1324	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rick of HopeIN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 9:43am
	Ah Thanks!
	1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless

68mustang Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 17 Jan 2020 Location: CT Points: 96	Post Options Post Reply Quote 68mustang Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Apr 2020 at 7:45pm
	Hi rick , need help with my steering, the shaft worm has wobble inside the shaft support , does that mean the shaft is bent?

PaulB Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4739	Post Options Post Reply Quote PaulB Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 11:30am
	I have a couple of these NOS sector gear for the W_ tractors available. Sorry I don't have the matching worm.
	If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY

Rick of HopeIN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1324	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rick of HopeIN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 7:38am
	Could be bad roller bearings. My worm is a sliding fit on the shaft but seems OK once the bearings pull together. Thankfully that was one part that does not seem to be worn. I am guessing a good shop could salvage the worm itself but may get pricy. If the big bore inside the worm itself is worn probably better to get he part number and watch for one to come up on Ebay, etc. My worm gear seems hard so I am guessing the shaft would tend to wear first.
	1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless