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Wispitfiremike 
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 Topic: 1940 b wake up
Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 2:45pm |
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Bought a 1940 B that has not been run in an estimated 15-20 years, its loose but I drained the oil to look at it and get fresh in to clean up as I tried to crank by hand to circulate before trying to start. Did not want to circulate old oil, also squirted a little into cylinders. Anyway with the filter off as I had to order one, I thought I would try to fill oil and see if pump works by hand cranking lightly to see if it comes up tube into filter. Well I get about 1- 1.5 qts in and it starts coming out of the drain part of filter mount. Wondering if that is normal but would not be surprised if nobody knows because they would not have any reason to test this way. Just figured it may help to make sure no oil lines or drains internally are blocked. Is there an oil flow path diagram anywhere, as I did not see one in the manual I have. Any other things to offer before trying to start are appreciated. Thank you.
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ac fleet
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Location: Arrowsmith, ILL
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 3:05pm |
Sounds like you have a working pump, so I would fill it with oil, dump in a bit of gas and pull start that sucker. ---quickest and easiest way to start non-runners.
Pull it 20 feet with ignition off so pump gets oil moving, turn on switch, choke it and hang on! ---IF points are clean, coil good, it should at least fire, then you can work from there. Carb probably nasty, so clean it out good before you start.
my B's are 38, 40, and 48. 40 and 48 have starters on them which don't work, so It's pull time for now.
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 3:41pm |
Did you drain any oil before adding the 1- 1.5 qt oil. sounds like maybe you forgot to and the oil is just over full and coming out the filter drain when you turn her over? Hope that's all it is.
Do you have the stand pipe for the filter? More info on it at
Edited by chaskaduo - 26 Mar 2020 at 3:47pm
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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theropod
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 3:44pm |
” but I drained the oil to look at it and get fresh in to clean up”
The OP drained the old oil...
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Put the bunny back in the box!
1938 B, 1977 Yanmar YM2200
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 3:49pm |
Thanks Roger, senior moment. 
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Keith M
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 3:56pm |
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You can start a AC. B with pull rope like older lawn mowers had. Make sure tractor is choked well and on level ground. Now put pot in gear with tractor in neutral. Wind rope “ sash cord type with wooden dowel handle “ around the belt pulley. Brace your foot on drawbar and push backwards with leg while pulling rope. Worked with my B, but mine had a magneto so on others you may need battery that is up idk. I started a B for 3-4 years this way cultivating tobacco before owner trade for a Farmaall Super A.
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Rick of HopeIN
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 3:57pm |
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I always heard to at least pop off the valve cover to make sure everything is moving. You can also drip some oil down in that way.
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 7:09pm |
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cdsloop
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Posted: 30 Mar 2020 at 11:48am |
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I would remove the two small 1/8" lines that go from the T near the filter up to the governor and up to the head and clean them before you attempt to start. I am in the process of refurbishing a 1950 B, and I removed both of those lines out of curiosity to see how open they were. I was surprised to find both almost completely clogged with sludge/thick oil. My tractor had mostly sat for 15-20 years. Neither line would allow carb cleaner to be sprayed through. I ran a small piece of aluminum wire as far into each end repeatedly, and wiped it each time after removal. Each time the wire would go a little farther into the line until I had it clear. Then I sprayed carb cleaner in, and blew it through with compressed air. It is possible that it would have cleaned itself on startup by being pressurized, but I doubt it would have. I feel much better knowing those lines are now clean and open.
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theropod
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Posted: 30 Mar 2020 at 8:24pm |
 chaskaduo wrote:
Thanks Roger, senior moment. |
Let’s not go there. Moments, for me, turn into weeks on end. I just happened to catch that because the topic is about a B. Since I am in the middle of a B project I thought would take a few months that’s stretched into years I wake up an pay close attention to every post about B’s. One of the first things I did in getting mine to at least run again was drain that 27 year old oil out, and refill it with something a little less like tar. You might say it was “close to home” for me to read about someone else facing the same issues.
ETA: Lucky for me the fresh oil squirted everywhere when I hand cranked my ‘38 B with the valve cover off and spark plugs out, so my supply lines weren’t gunked up, and the pump is doing great. After sitting for 27 years here in the mid south condensation had collected in the oil pan, and it scared me when clear water drained out for a couple seconds before the black goop started oozing out. After I got the old girl running with water in the system I checked again, by draining the fresh oil into a clean pan and checking carefully, and the sleeves weren’t leaking. No, the “fresh” oil was not poured back in! I had run the engine for about 15 minutes before the second drain out, and new oil and another filter was used. Can never be too careful about oil, and supporting systems, in an engine, ever!
Edited by theropod - 30 Mar 2020 at 8:44pm
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Put the bunny back in the box!
1938 B, 1977 Yanmar YM2200
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allisbred
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Posted: 30 Mar 2020 at 8:37pm |
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If filter is off and you pour oil into the valve cover, oil will fill filter bowl first before making a mess on your floor(normal). Be sure to check those lines now or it will starve rocker shaft of oil as said.
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 7:30am |
No, the “fresh” oil was not poured back in! Yep, cleanliness is next to godliness inside engines.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 7:51am |
With an engine that's been sitting that long, I agree with Rick in IN. the least you should do is pop the valve cover off, roll the engine over slow and watch to make sure all valves are opening and closing correctly. Wouldn't even hurt to pour some oil over the rocker train and roll it over a few more times to get the oil working in the guides pushrods and rockers. Also a good opportunity to clean out any sludgy oil or condensation out of the valve cover and the top of the engine to.
The next thing I would do is dump the oil and inspect it as it comes out. If its super black and droppin out ploppy, might be a good idea to drop the oil pan and inspect what you have in there. A little more time spent, and a few more bucks for gaskets, but better to make sure the oil pump screen isn't plugged and the pan doesn't have any water or sludge or both in it. Not doing either of those tasks could result in engine damage. Then you have a Tractor with a problem engine. Why cause a problem with a possibly perfectly good engine... Just my 2 cents.. Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Wispitfiremike
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 2:56pm |
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Want to thank all for the insight, the question of normal to fill bowl of filter before draining was big one, Old oil was black but not gloppy just liquid which I took as good, no water either. Filter got here but cant get at tractor right now. Put my mom in an assisted living apartment, piled rest in garage and now with everything closed can't get rid of anything. Oh well mom seems to like it but have not seen her since we moved her in as they don't allow visitors rt now. I think I will put the filter on and pull some lines to clean then spin by hand with plugs out to move some oil before trying to start. Thanks again and I will try to update when possible. Maybe put a picture in to so you see the barn find we are working on.
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Wispitfiremike
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Posted: 22 Apr 2020 at 4:52pm |
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Quick update on progress, put refurbished magneto on and different fuel tank with out holes, cooling system seems to be holding coolant and it does run quite well actually, must have been dry fuel wise as carb is good, idles down, no stuck float, radiator warms up so it seems water pump is working, no valve clatter and goes down driveway well. Need to pick your collective brains again as next steps in my mind are clean out (maybe some sea foam and then oil change in trans, went to grease front end and will change the old zerks as they seem plugged but the two on the king pins are round and I wasn't sure if I should try to remove with vise grip or try another method to clean instead of opening a can of worms I shouldn't? As always your insight is appreciated and as an aside a quick word of Thanks to you that farm from someone who doesn't.
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Wispitfiremike
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Posted: 22 Apr 2020 at 4:58pm |
Forgot pictures, Thanks again. Hope I did this right.  
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Wispitfiremike
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Posted: 22 Apr 2020 at 5:03pm |
Nope wrong here is the other one. 
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Boss Man
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Posted: 22 Apr 2020 at 6:55pm |
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round ones like that are usually drive in zerks. You'll turn them all day and never crew them out. Could try a zerk buster. Looks like a syringe. You fill it with diesel or penetrate then use the plunger to force it into the zerk and softening the old dried out grease.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 22 Apr 2020 at 8:31pm |
Nice work getting the B going! Thanks for the pictures too! We like those! I spent many hours on my Dad's B! cultivating cabbage and gathering wood too. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Bill Long
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Posted: 22 Apr 2020 at 9:21pm |
You know, for a tractor that has not run in 15 - 20 years that is not a bad looking unit. I am delighted to hear you had it running and are taking the time to do it right. Thank you for bringing another of my favorites back to life. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck! Bill Long
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theropod
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Posted: 23 Apr 2020 at 9:12am |
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My question is where you managed to find a replacement tank? Mine had some rust induced pin holes that I soldered (acid core) shut, and I searched the web for days without luck.
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Put the bunny back in the box!
1938 B, 1977 Yanmar YM2200
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theropod AT yahoo DOT com
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Dick L
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Posted: 23 Apr 2020 at 9:55am |
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Setting that long where you have no idea what people mite have tried or done it would be a good idea to remove the valve cover. Then make sure all the valves will open and close. Look for bent push rods as someone might hooked a chain to it and pulled it with a stuck valve. Most always after setting that long the oil pump will have lost its prime. These pumps are not self priming. The way I prime those pumps in in a post I made some time back for a D 14 and copied rather than re type.
Almost the same pump as the B, C and CA except it is a higher volume. The relief spring and ball is in the front end of the camshaft to make it a pressurized system to force the oil thru mains into the rod bearings. More than likely it has lost its prime. I prime these pumps by removing the oil filter, place a gas line hose over the stand pipe, fill it with oil, start the engine and catch oil from the hose in a can. When you get oil, stop the engine, replace the filter, restart the engine and check the oil gage for pressure. That is the no mess quick way to prime these pumps. This pump is driven by a pin in the back of the camshaft the same as the smaller engines of the CA.
Edited by Dick L - 23 Apr 2020 at 12:41pm
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MotorCityBear
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Posted: 23 Apr 2020 at 12:12pm |
So I am "waking up" a 1953 B that has been sitting a while.
Is the Fram C159 the correct oil filter for my B?
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Rob
1953 AC B
Kubota L3901
Blairsville, GA
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HoughMade
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Posted: 23 Apr 2020 at 12:24pm |
MotorCityBear wrote:
So I am "waking up" a 1953 B that has been sitting a while.
Is the Fram C159 the correct oil filter for my B? |
Yes.
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1951 B
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Wispitfiremike
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Posted: 25 Apr 2020 at 11:56pm |
Quick update, thank you for help on zerks, changed the screw out types and got the two on the kingpins loose enough to get grease to start moving in them, trans oil was big one, see pic. Pretty sure it was overdue. Had to get radiator repaired as the old one popped a leak when I put a better cap on it and it built up better pressure. Really struggled to get bolts out of seat thru fender to move seat back farther, must have had someone shorter than I driving. Going to try to post video tomorrow before we take it up north for summer. 
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 26 Apr 2020 at 8:22am |
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How about your 2 final drive gear oils. That stuff gets neglected often. It's a lot more to it than changing trans or motor oils, that is why they get overlooked.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 26 Apr 2020 at 8:30am |
Yep if you have the time to check and or change all the fluids in these old tractors its a good start. Hope the B gives you many hours of enjoyment. Oh yea dont ever tell it its a little tractor! It thinks its a WD45!:) Very snorty when cornered! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Wispitfiremike
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Posted: 26 Apr 2020 at 10:22pm |
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So far so good, had valve cover off and oil looks good there, what we thought was redone radiator started leaking under pressure too, working on that so ran out of time trying to get video, final drives next. The three drain plugs for the trans were pretty tough, ground down a 1/2" drive extension to fit properly as 3/8" too small and 1/2" too big. have one now for next time. Ran it for awhile trying to get some heat cycles in oil before changing again. Is it good to enjoy driving a little tractor this much? Don't have to have a reason other than a ride.
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Wispitfiremike
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Posted: 16 Jun 2020 at 10:16pm |
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Time for an update, we were looking for some tires and go figure but they were attached to a couple of tractors. After they followed us home we started contemplating how we were going to scramble around the rims and tires we wanted. Question for the experienced from those who are unfamiliar with best practices for this job. Is it possible to get the rim off without removing it with the wheel weight or does it all come together? If at all possible it seems best to try to change on the tractor with out removing the rim? What kinds of fun can we expect and as always we appreciate the help. If I can figure out how I will load video of tractor now. Fun part is one of the two we picked up is a running 1938 B , and a loose mid 40s B. Already decided the 38 is staying but gotta sell probably mid 40s B, as we are plum out of shed space.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 17 Jun 2020 at 6:07am |
Mike, Humm, if I read this correct the tractor rides had some effect on you to the point you needed to secure additional orange units to fill the shed and then some! Well welcome to our world! I would remove all the weights, remove the rims with the tires on. Take to your local tire shop and have them change them. The intermediate step would be to take the rims, have them blasted, check for holes, repair as needed, primer and paint them and then have the good rubber mounted. But I am old and just dont want to fight the tire rim and tube work. We do need a few more pictures. Did you say sell something? Humm never heard of that concept?:) Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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