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WD45 Voltmeter Wiring |
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TimCNY
Orange Level Joined: 15 Apr 2014 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1551 |
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Posted: 19 Jun 2019 at 12:08pm |
First, I owe a huge debt of gratitude to Steve Barbato for his patience in trying to help me understand, for him it must be like trying to communicate with chimp lol...
Steve: "Hey, stop. Don't eat that, it's not a banana." Me: "BANANA!!!" Steve: "NO, that's a cigar. A GOOD cigar. MY cigar. Don't eat it." Me: "banana?" Steve: "NO!!! NOT BANANA! BAD MONKEY!!!" Me: "BANANA! ME EAT!!!" Steve: ">sigh...<" Me: "YUCK. Bad banana. Why you give me bad banana?!?!?!" I can relate. I like cigars. I even grow my own tobacco to make cigars. And they're not bananas... not at all. But I'm still confused. Sorry, Steve! I have been avoiding asking this question because of my profound embarrassment over my utter ignorance. At some point in its past the tractor was converted to 12v but the wiring is a mess and the ammeter (already out of instrument panel) is 30-0-30 and won't be used. So, you would expect that even a chimp could figure it out! I've got a new (1-wire - yes I know lol) alternator, got some wiring parts from Steve. New wire. It all makes sense IF keeping it with an ammeter. And for anyone and everyone in the future, doesn't matter the reasons for having to go the "cheap" route (IT'S NOT!!!), just go 100% with Steve's kit. I should've. I didn't. But that's history now. Anyways, using the Duey Schutter 12v Conversion (distributor, key-start, solenoid, lights etc.) diagram, I am going to delete the ammeter and install the voltmeter I got from Steve. But I'm confused on the wiring when the ammeter is deleted and a voltmeter is used instead. I can follow a schematic like the one I mentioned, I get it, I can follow it clearly. But figuring out anything electrical that's new-to-me on my own ain't gonna happen any time soon. I actually have thought of wiring it as the diagram shows with a 60-0-60 ammeter. THAT I can figure out. Only difference is I'm thinking of having the ammeter in its own, non-metallic (I have a junction box if that would work) enclosure mounted away from the rest of the switches/gauges etc., and wiring the voltmeter (properly) in the place on the instrument panel previously occupied by the ammeter. So... anyone speak chimp? I'm almost done. This is my only sticking point. ...I hope... Thanks, guys. Go ahead and fire away, I deserve it lol. - Tim aka Cheetah P.S. - is wiring the light on the voltmeter (Sunpro) as simple as connecting to appropriate terminals of the voltmeter? Or do I use a different banana? |
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TimCNY
Orange Level Joined: 15 Apr 2014 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1551 |
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Also, the key switch already on the tractor is 3-post and is only a few years old. The Schutter diagram shows a 4-post. Stick with the 3, or go with a 4? And what changes with the wiring circuit, if anything, if I keep the 3-post?
And now you know how Steve feels lol! |
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DougS
Orange Level Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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If your key switch has an ACC position, wire the + wire to that. If it has a second wire (probably black) run that to a ground connection. If it doesn't have a second wire, the case of the volt meter is where it gets its ground. If your key switch doesn't have an ACC position, wire the voltmeter to the IGN terminal on the switch.
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frnkeore
Silver Level Joined: 07 May 2019 Location: Southern Oregon Points: 362 |
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Volt meters are easy and the best indicator of a battery's charge. I learned about them in the Army (most wheeled vehicles had them) , as a mechanic, in 1965 and have used them, ever since.
As Doug says, they have 2 ways of grounding. All the analogs, that I use have a terminal that goes to ground. The LED types, are grounded with the case. You do not need a large wire for them, 22 - 24 ga is good and should start out as a new wire. You don't need a amp meter, your single wire can go directly to the battery but, you should put a fuse or circuit breaker in it of at lest 60 amp. I'm switching over to full time LED volt meters so I can keep a eye on my tractors battery's w/o turning the ignition on (I keep the keys locked up). They take almost no current but, I have to hole saw a 1 1/8 hole, to install them, in a bracket or the instrument panel and leave the amp meter, in place for convenience or originality. Edited by frnkeore - 19 Jun 2019 at 12:51pm |
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Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14 '55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861 Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more. |
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TimCNY
Orange Level Joined: 15 Apr 2014 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1551 |
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It has the accessory position, thanks Doug and frnkeore. I do get that for wiring the voltmeter, maybe I shouldn't have placed so much emphasis on the voltmeter when it's my issue of what to do with the other wiring when the ammeter is deleted; do I just hook the red wire (keeping with the diagram I mentioned) from the alternator straight to the solenoid, OR do I connect it to the BATT on the switch and then connect from BATT to the solenoid (that is absolutely the only way it makes sense, to me)? I know you state to the battery, if I understand, keeping the 3-post switch on it now, what post on the switch (3-position still) runs to the solenoid? And as for the light switch being connected to the "+" on the ammeter per the diagram, I'm pretty sure I should have the wire for the lights connected to the ACC, right? And I'm also thinking the light for the voltmeter might be best hooked up the light switch, but not sure. Can't see any point having that light on all the time.
So, to sum up: I THINK that I'm supposed to run the red wire from the alternator to the BATT, then from there to the solenoid. And the light switch is wired to the ACC, the voltmeter light connected to the light wiring, or maybe the ACC but I don't think so. Am I on track? Looking for clarification. The issue is that I can use the ignition switch NAPA P/N KSb180 (I have) and keep it the same as the diagram, but if I use the 3-post already there, where does the wire from SOL to the solenoid (per diagram) get connected on the 3-post. It would have been a lot easier for me to understand ALL of this if there was a way to follow the wiring already on the tractor, but that is a tangled mess you would not believe. Different gauge wires in the same line spliced together, original cloth covered wires spliced with old wires spliced with new and all different gauges, wires hanging out and going nowhere, even with a continuity tester some do not make any sense, possibly broken wires under the 40 pounds of electrical tape the guy used. Hard to imagine I could do a worse job. And the battery never charged before. Didn't know if bad wiring or alternator or both. Doesn't matter now, I'm going all new. ...I think I need a banana lol. The only thing that concerns me is without guidance, I do something wrong that fries all the time and money, along with the tractor, that I've got into it so far. |
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TimCNY
Orange Level Joined: 15 Apr 2014 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1551 |
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What caused me more confusion than anything else is trying to compare the old ammeter wiring to what's in the diagram. The old ammeter has all new wiring connected to it, but there are 2, 10-guage wires connected to the "+" and 5 various gauge wires connected to the "-". So maybe I'm a little bit justifiably confused?
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8337 |
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Tim,
About half way through my eyes glazed over and I had to go for a frosty beverage this time just a Sprite. First I have been through this with The mentioned diagram and with Steve's help too. This will be my fourth conversion to 12 volt positive ground, alternator, and volt meter. I will have several comments but first you need to know I am not a electrician! I can read a wiring diagram if its not too complicated. Second this is a custom system. That's why Steve does what he does and makes the whole package work. Me being cheap I did not buy his system and he still helped me. If I remember there may be issues with said Duey wiring diagram. I made my own diagram. Its here some where. Let me know if it might help. I have moved away from the NAPA switches. Yes they are 4 terminal with a ACC terminal. I assume your still going to use the pull handle to active the starter? A 3 terminal will work. I now buy marine switches. Plastic water proof and seem to work real good! Did I say the NAPA switches were junk? Well if I didnt they are. Sorry NAPA. I have already told them. One of there switches let me down at a tractor pull. I was P.O.ed. Ok I have not done a 1 wire alternator yet the others I did were 3 wire and required a resistor or diode??? in the wire going back to the alternator. Stop! Isn't electrical stuff confusing! YES! That's why Steve gets the big bucks! Cause He knows this stuff! Oh and the first one I did (wrong) I let the smoke out of the wires, as my grandson (the electrician) stood by shook his head and grinned! Yes I am looking forward to wiring this 45 project tractor. Remember its custom the original diagrams were only if its still original. BTW I really like how these 12 volt systems function compared to the old 6 volt. But that is my opinion. I have rambled too much. I will try to look for the diagram. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 19 Jun 2019 at 1:34pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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frnkeore
Silver Level Joined: 07 May 2019 Location: Southern Oregon Points: 362 |
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"
So, to sum up: I THINK that I'm supposed to run the red wire from the alternator to the BATT, then from there to the solenoid."
If your battery cable, goes directly to the solenoid, you can run your single alt wire to it. That connects it, directly to the batt and that deletes the amp meter. If you want to keep the amp meter, run it there, then from there back to the solenoid. If you want the volt meter on, only when the the key is turned on, connect it to the Ign terminal. |
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Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14 '55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861 Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more. |
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TimCNY
Orange Level Joined: 15 Apr 2014 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1551 |
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EUREKA, THERE'S A CHIMP-HUMAN TRANSLATING DEVICE!!! lol!!!
Seriously guys, Chris and Frank, THANK YOU but I didn't have time to read your replies because Don(MO) got in touch with me via PM, said he spoke chimp, gave me his number and for the last hour and ten minutes we talked about the difference between wrappers of bananas and of cigars. And - I GOT IT! So, I sure overcomplicated it... but in all fairness to me, so did the previous owner! HAH! OK, now head to the farm and hopefully have time to get this done right while still fresh as a banana cigar in my mind. Went from clear as mud to clear as crystal. THANKS, DON! And all... what a huge help this forum is. Thank you. I'll let you know when I get it done and get it running. This SHOULD be the last on the list of things it needed. Glad I swallowed my pride and spoke up. oooh ooooh aaaah aaaah!!! (<--- translated: "me happy chimp!") THANKS!!! Now to get to one of your classes! |
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Bill_MN
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Points: 1466 |
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Why do you want an ammeter? Most 12v conversions just go to a voltmeter in place of the ammeter because of how an alternator works vs. the old generators and because amps doesn't give you any indication of the battery's state of charge. The only purpose of the ammeters back in the day was because generators were very bad at regulating charging rate and you had to keep an eye on it so you didn't boil the battery. With a modern alternator, as long as the voltage of the system is within range, you're good.
Edited by Bill_MN - 19 Jun 2019 at 2:43pm |
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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TimCNY
Orange Level Joined: 15 Apr 2014 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1551 |
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Hi Bill, I actually didn't want an ammeter, my reason for thinking about keeping it was not so much that I didn't understand installing the voltmeter but that given the way my tractor was wired, and trying to reconcile it with the diagram I mentioned, I was beyond confused trying to figure how to move connections around, so I thought just keep the ammeter, wire it according to the diagram, and wire the voltmeter up as well. Now that I have a better grasp, reading what I wrote makes me more embarrassed now than I was before! The ammeter is about to go in the scrap barrel, as soon as I get to the farm lol.
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TimCNY
Orange Level Joined: 15 Apr 2014 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1551 |
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BTW, a good friend and former neighbor just moved to Sioux Falls back on December 1st. Now he's trying to talk us into moving. It may be working...
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DougS
Orange Level Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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If you have a rugged ignition switch you can tie the ammeter connections (all of them) to the BAT connection on the switch. Use good heavy duty connectors. If you have a wimpy switch then tie all the ammeter connections together and run a wire to the BAT terminal on the switch. Don't include the ignition wire on this terminal. Tie that to the IGN terminal on the switch. Tie the voltmeter to the switch as mentioned earlier.
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Bill_MN
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Points: 1466 |
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Here is the diagram from my WD conversion if it helps. I prefer the 3 wire alt on a tractor, charges at a much lower RPM. Sioux Falls is nice but growing fast and crime/drugs are starting to creep up a bit, Harrisburg or Brandon would be best areas to live. |
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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GregLawlerMinn
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lawler, Mn Points: 1226 |
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I feel your pain. Them instrument panels are way too small for fingers and tools, have too many gages in them and the wires go to unmarked (or not well identified places). I now forget about wiring a voltmeter to the key switch. Instead, I run a wire from the + post of the coil to the + post on the voltmeter and then run a wire from the - post on the voltmeter to the - post on the battery. Use some more wire but avoid the hassle of disassembling/reassembling the instrument panel to install the gage.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
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DougS
Orange Level Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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That would work, but you'll be reading the IR losses of the wire to the coil. Connecting to a point as close to the alternator wiring as possible would give a more accurate reading. Keep the small wires enclosed. They're less susceptible to damage that way.
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8337 |
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Ok, Here is my crude sketch of the system I propose to use next. May not be big enough to read?
The parts and dash reconfigured: Don is a great resource on these gems. I think you were calling him when he and I were talking tractors! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DougS
Orange Level Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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I don't care for a voltmeter that shows 12 volts or less in the green band. That can fool you into thinking that everything is okay. In reality you want at least 12.5 volts with the key switched to ACC and the engine not running and just a hair under 14 volts or more with the engine running. Several voltmeters on the trucks I worked on had two green zones - one that indicated good with the engine off and the other zone that showed good with the engine running.
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8337 |
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Doug,
Thats probably a better type of volt meter. Any specs on that unit? FYI I ran these old WD tractors for years on Dad's farm. Most of the time they worked. Dad had moved them to 8 volt batteries. But we spent a lot of time jumping them or hand cranking them due to batteries not charged, or the charging system not operational. I also have a 6 volt Ford Jubilee that is still original and works pretty darn good. I think the thread has been hijacked by me enough. Back to your regular channel! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DougS
Orange Level Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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I've been retired for going on four years, Chris. If I lived near work I could go back and sneak a peek and see who manufactured the gauges. Unfortunately I'm now 1300 miles from my old place of work. At the very least know what your voltmeter should be indicating. It doesn't hurt to check it with a digital voltmeter to verify its accuracy.
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Dusty MI
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5058 |
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I had a '53 WD. After it had been over hauled, the 6 volt battery would not turn it over very well if stalled when working it hard. I put a new 8 volt battery in it, and it worked very well, and stayed charged.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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frnkeore
Silver Level Joined: 07 May 2019 Location: Southern Oregon Points: 362 |
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I was a kid, in the 50's and early 60's Both my dad and MOM, drive dump trucks, as well as two other relatives. My dad also had a small paving company, where I was first exposed to tractors.
The 8V battery was talked about often as a cure to starting issues. It turned the engine a little faster and gave more cranking capacity, too. I thought that the 8V, had gone the way of the Do Do Bird, until I got into tractors and found them on the shelves of tractor supply places. With 8V's you need to remember that the charging voltage has to be at least 1V higher, to get a full charge. In my day, as a mechanic, the voltage regulators were adjustable and you could crank them up. 9.5V would be where I liked it. Added: As a kid, we would also tweek the regulators and wind up over heating the electrical system and blowing the headlights out Edited by frnkeore - 20 Jun 2019 at 11:43am |
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Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14 '55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861 Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more. |
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Don(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862 |
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I must be able to speak chimp! lol Tim I hope that call helped you out. And please remember the only bad question is the one you don't ask.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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TimCNY
Orange Level Joined: 15 Apr 2014 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1551 |
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Thanks to all, the wiring is done BUT I haven't started the tractor yet. A few ignition checks yet to make, and besides the old battery isn't holding a charge. But at least when I hooked up the battery yesterday and turned the key to ACC, the LIGHTS WORK!!! First time! And the voltmeter, too. Not enough juice to crank it over, though. I didn't want to take a battery out of another tractor either. Just as well, I wasn't ready. And the last thing I have on the list before she's (hopefully) ready to work again is adjust and repack the front wheel bearings.
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