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301 crankshaft bearing clearance |
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Beirnesy ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jun 2012 Location: Mid Western Ont Points: 351 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 04 Mar 2019 at 8:23pm |
I googled this subject and did not come up with much info pertaining to orange, so I'll start a thread.
![]() Manual states, main bearing-to-journal clearance : .0016"-.0043" If a 301/649 powered AC tractor is pulling in a 3000 rpm Hot Farm class. What do the sled pulling members on here recomended for clearance when assembling a engine ? .002" ,.003" +- ?
Edited by Beirnesy - 07 Mar 2019 at 9:36pm |
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1969 220,1967 190DXT,1968 190DXT, LGT's 710,,716
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bsallis180 ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Jul 2013 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 209 |
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We have been around the .002 I would think for a higher rpm application you would want more
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Beirnesy ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jun 2012 Location: Mid Western Ont Points: 351 |
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There is some good videos from Mahle on youtube, about this subject but not directly related to sled pullers.
Edited by Beirnesy - 05 Mar 2019 at 6:29pm |
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1969 220,1967 190DXT,1968 190DXT, LGT's 710,,716
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Beirnesy ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jun 2012 Location: Mid Western Ont Points: 351 |
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The dial bore gauge shows .0025 oil clearance between bearing and crankshaft journal. Should I go with that? I should add this measurement is with -.020" bearings and freshly balanced and reground -.020"crankshaft
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1969 220,1967 190DXT,1968 190DXT, LGT's 710,,716
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21021 |
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That will work fine. Use 15W-40 motor oil and nothing any thicker.
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Beirnesy ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jun 2012 Location: Mid Western Ont Points: 351 |
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Thanks for the reassurance fellows, BTW I'm having my 19 year old son help with this engine project. Trying to make him a bit of a gearhead aswell.
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1969 220,1967 190DXT,1968 190DXT, LGT's 710,,716
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21021 |
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If you are using a D-2900 block and you have decided to remove the engine oil cooler and its large external oil lines, you MUST also remove the spring and plunger from the rear oil crossover passage in the block. You will have near ZERO oil pressure if you don't remove those parts and ruin your new engine.
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Beirnesy ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jun 2012 Location: Mid Western Ont Points: 351 |
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Thanks DR Allis, I have done what you have mentioned, it is good of you to put that information out there to help other AC enthusiast aswell.
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1969 220,1967 190DXT,1968 190DXT, LGT's 710,,716
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NEVER green ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 28 Feb 2013 Location: MN. Points: 7909 |
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Looser clearances free up power, but don't go too far. Ive read for every inch of journal use at least .001 clearance , you are good. |
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2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50
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Bobo Husker ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Nov 2016 Location: Muscoda, WI Points: 96 |
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Dr Allis, can you elaborate on spring removal?
Thanks in advance. |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21021 |
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On a D-2800 (non-turbo) engine, oil flow from the engine oil filter goes thru passages inside the block to get the oil from the left side of the block to the right side main oil galley. The passage in question is the rear crossover passage connecting the filter to the right side of the block. On a D-2900 (turbo with oil cooler) they have inserted a plunger and spring inside this rear crossover passage to BLOCK oil flow thru the block and force the oil out thru an elbow at the left rear corner behind the oil filter and then thru external steel tubing around the block to the oil cooler on the right side of the engine. After oil goes thru the cooler it then enters the main oil galley providing oil to the engine bearings. Removal of the oil cooler and external lines WITHOUT removing the plunger and spring inside the block results in catastrophic engine failure !!! Also, removing the oil cooler requires changing the water pump volute to provide proper water flow thru the front of the engine block.
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Bobo Husker ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Nov 2016 Location: Muscoda, WI Points: 96 |
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Thanks Dr Allis,
So if you remove the spring and plunger, you dont need to use the external oil line? Just plug the two block ports? |
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Bobo Husker ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Nov 2016 Location: Muscoda, WI Points: 96 |
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I should explain, when I removed the cooler, I ran a pressure hose from from brass 90, directly to other side of block.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21021 |
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Correct. Remove spring and plunger and no external line/hose is needed.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21021 |
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You noticed my mention of a different water pump volute too.....??
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Bobo Husker ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Nov 2016 Location: Muscoda, WI Points: 96 |
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I did, and honestly dont know what your talking about there.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21021 |
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The water pump attaches to the volute. The volute bolts to the engine block. If you have removed the engine oil cooler and are still using the old volute, I think your coolant flow into the engine block is very low because the volute doesn't have a large hole in it to match the hole in the engine block. Get a volute from a non-turbo engine or open up the small hole to increase coolant flow.
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Bobo Husker ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Nov 2016 Location: Muscoda, WI Points: 96 |
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Got it. Thank you!
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