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CBnwo 
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Location: Ohio
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 Topic: 226 valves
Posted: 12 Mar 2019 at 9:18pm |
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What are some options of larger valves to put in a gleaner e head that don’t take much to make fit?
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
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Posted: 12 Mar 2019 at 9:54pm |
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Bigger valves won't help unless the seat holes are bigger. MACK
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CBnwo
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Posted: 13 Mar 2019 at 7:12am |
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I was planning on enlarging the hole, I’m thinking more along the lines of what stems are close
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DrAllis
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Posted: 13 Mar 2019 at 7:23am |
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On a stock engine (or even relatively stock) you will gain nothing and probably lose on engine lugging ability.
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CBnwo
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Posted: 13 Mar 2019 at 11:45am |
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Guess I should clarify, just looking for options down the road when it gets some stroke and other upgrades
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DrAllis
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Posted: 13 Mar 2019 at 12:47pm |
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What RPM do you intend to run?? What size carburetor ??
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CBnwo
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Posted: 14 Mar 2019 at 8:19am |
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Around here the 10% over rule is common so somewhere close to that. But I’m leaning towards a build wi50 described on a post that I can’t find with a 5.5” stroke and some head and manifold work
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DrAllis
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Posted: 14 Mar 2019 at 9:15am |
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25 or so years ago (winter projects) I built two identical engines that were 360 cubic inches. They were IDENTICAL in every way, except for one had big valves and port work and the other had stock valves with the intake guides shortened up. Now, they were dyno'd a week apart, so it wasn't on the same day, but the air temps were very close to the same. The results at 2,000 RPM was no difference in HP. I always assumed if you stuck them both in 3rd gear and ran them down the track until they stalled, the stock valve engine would have won. The reason for the big valve head ?? That Customer already had that head done that way from his previous engine, so I simply reused it. The stock valve head was that way to save on overall build costs. If you want to run open RPM's, I'd imagine bigger valves and port work would be an advantage.
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tbran
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Posted: 14 Mar 2019 at 1:28pm |
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Yes, when the antique thing started we built several - we heard wild #'s on HP but the ones we built were competitive until the mega buck engines with max bore and stroke appeared. We put the std overbore kit in from a WD, slightly modified the piston to replicate the power crater under the spark plugs , a Lunati Cam, a D19 Carb (a tough find in those days) with the intake opened up to match the carb , the ears enlarged to accept the carb , matched the intake to the head - mild porting and guide work as Doc described- and we could get to about 70 hp - close to a D19 go figure... and the unit would lug down to about 1600-1750 .... with the E gleaner gov spring. When one goes above these workings - about a grand in new parts and lots of labor the $ goes exponentially up in hp/$ . Those that goes there had better talk to some one reputable who has had track success and proven longevity unless one enjoy$ walking in mine field$ of trial and error$.
Edited by tbran - 14 Mar 2019 at 1:29pm
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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CBnwo
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Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 2:27pm |
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Hmm ok. well the head has to come off anyway, so is there anything to do to the head to improve airflow that would help with hp or lugging? It’s only got the overbore kit in it for now til I gather enough information and $$ to build something bigger
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DrAllis
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Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 3:55pm |
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I always shorten the intake valve guides so they don't protrude into the air flow. Run a compression test on it before you tear it down. A stock D-17/ "E" Gleaner will have 140-145 psi cranking compression. A 170 has close to 170 psi. Some of those "over-bore" kits only have 120 psi...… yawn.
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CBnwo
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Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 6:27pm |
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I did a compression check last summer...but I can’t remember for sure what it was. I wanna say somewhere around 180 but could be wrong. But it has a lot of bubbles in the radiator and usually pushes coolant out the overflow
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