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DSeries4 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
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 Topic: Red Question - Farmall
Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 8:44pm |
I have a Farmall 140 offset tractor where the clutch is always engaged. Since it rarely gets used, there was a lot of nesting material from mice in the clutch housing. It worked after cleaning it out. I shot the pressure washer in there, and now it always stays engaged.
Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this?
Once I get it fixed I'll probably be putting it up for sale.
Thanks.
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CJohnS MI
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Joined: 27 Jun 2010
Location: Lapeer MI
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Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 8:54pm |
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MMPG - Magical Mice Pooh Glue. Either that, or rust has stuck the clutch disc to the flywheel.
But I'm leaning towards the MMPG.
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DSeries4
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Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 9:33pm |
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What would be the best (easiest) way to fix this? I'd prefer not split the tractor if possible.
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Adam Stratton
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Location: SW MO
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Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 9:35pm |
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I would be inclined to work it really hard. If you can get something heavy hooked up to it, then start it in gear, drag the object around with your foot on the clutch and see when the tractor stops. If you are a little more adventurous, you could use a heavy chain and tie it to a big tree with just enough slack in the chain to get the tractor started in gear, and hold you foot on the clutch as it comes tight. Sometimes you can fill the whole clutch cavity with diesel or something similar and clean out that mouse stuff. Good luck!
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Jeff Z. NY
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Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 9:39pm |
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If it is just a case of the clutch disk froze try driving it around and give the breaks some hard stabs. Don't try to stop the tractor just stab the breaks a few times. Keep you foot off the clutch when you do this.
I have had many free up doing this.
Edited by Jeff Z. NY - 06 Sep 2010 at 9:40pm
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firebrick43
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Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 9:41pm |
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Well, shooting high pressure water into a clutch housing is not the best idea. Alot of older throw out bearings were not protected very well, especially against high pressure water. The throwout bearing then can fail. It also could just be rusted together. I am afraid either way you should split the tractor to check the clutch.
Edit, oops, forgot these tractors still had the carbon throwout bearing, that is if it hasn't been changed out for the new style roller element bearing.
Edited by firebrick43 - 06 Sep 2010 at 10:26pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 9:55pm |
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i had a B like that. Sprayed laundry soap and water in with a weed sprayer. LIt it soak, then washed out with a garden hose... Is there an opening on the bottom of the housing? Could you hold clutch pedal down, then pry screw drever in from the bottom and spread ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Duey (IA)
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Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 10:05pm |
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It could be the splines of the clutch disc are rusted to the engine clutch shaft along with debris in the flywheel clutch cavity.
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Fight Organized Crime, Do not re-elect them!
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CJohnS MI
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Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 10:10pm |
 DSeries4 wrote:
What would be the best (easiest) way to fix this? I'd prefer not split the tractor if possible. |
What everyone else said. Push in clutch, quick jabs on brakes. Also, I'd re-wet the clutch. Seriously. Wetting it will make the organic material of the clutch expand, loosening its grip somewhat. I'm not inclined to worry about the throwout bearing getting wet - if its an original graphite block. No moving parts in those - just a solid block of graphite the clutch fingers rub against. And then there's the "judiciously applied brass drift method". Meaning, getting a brass drift, and finding a point where you could tap on the trans shaft that clutch disc is supposed to be turning, and dislodging it that-a-way. Moving the shaft a couple of thousands laterally has worked before. Of course, the clutch pedal has to be depressed while this is going on. Oh, I don't have a brass drift, so that means I wait until no one is around, and use whatever WILL fit up there - a piece of steel bar stock, re-bar, - the tail from a cat that has rigor mortis set-in.... and a whole bunch of TOO LITTLE in stead of "UH-OH, TOO MUCH". PS: I'd be danged if I would split a tractor to fix that little SNAFU. (Well, maybe I would - but I wouldn't tell anybody afterwards).
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 6:24am |
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It only takes acouple hours to split it . then you can do a real clean up lube every thing and put it back together. You could be done by supper time.
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clovis
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Posted: 09 Sep 2010 at 7:51am |
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