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Allis Wd45 
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 Topic: Front Crankshaft Seal
Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 4:06am |
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The Front Crankshaft Seal and oil pan gasket are Leaking on my WD45. What all has to be taken off to replace the front main seal. How do you remove the old seal when you take the timing cover off? What all has to come out of the governor? How do you take it out and keep it in time? Can the seal be replaced with the timing cover on the tractor. I’ve read in other forums that you have to have the seal centered on the Crankshaft how do you do that? Also how do you remove the timing cover from the front engine support? Do you have to jack the engine up when you unbolt it from the support?
Thanks for the help. I want an idea of what I need to look for before I tear into the engine.
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WF owner
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 4:48am |
Do yourself a favor. Remove the engine and put it on a stand to do the replacement. It sounds like a lot more work, but it will be much easier in the end.
Here's a link to a video that Don Bradley did. He is a very well respected AC mechanic that posts on here. It can be found in the Knowledge Base Section of the forum. I think the video will answer all your questions.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 12:26pm |
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Ok if it’s going I require the engine to be pulled I’m going to leave it a lone. I don’t want to get that far into it.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 1:45pm |
I understand about pulling the engine too. I did two of these per Dons instructions standing on my head. Both reduced the leaking in the front but I still have some rear seal issues. Its not easy to do in the tractor but not impossible. I spent time making sure the pan was straight when it went back on. Used the clips for the front seal. Didn't cut any seals, put a little sealant only where recommended, used the "F" shaped gaskets at the rear. Also made and used the pin guides to help position the pan on re assembly. Took me several days. Also made some plates to support and align the pan gaskets while the got set up.
To do the front crank seal you need to take the radiator and sheet metal off. (That is almost as much work as pulling the engine.) You have to remove the hand crank assembly IIRC? Anyway with that off, and the crank pulley off. you can remove the front crank seal. A seal puller works good. You might consider a speedy sleeve on the crank to cover the spiral grooves which were for the old felt type seals. The new seal will probably be a rubber lip seal type.
Guys jump in and correct me here, its been a few days since I put one in.
Now that I think about it you may need to pull the front timing cover and then put the speedy sleeve on? That may be why one of mine is leaking?
Bottom line is there is not a real quick and easy fix for these leaks. By the time you have all this stuff off the tractor and engine. I think you have about 4 bolts and some linkage to remove and the engine can come out and be rolled upside down and or much better access to the crank, to do this work in a better easier fashion. Sorry for being long winded. Maybe it helps? I have one that is going to leak a little till someone in the future tears it apart. I have a bunch of pictures if it would help you?
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 01 Jan 2019 at 1:50pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 3:06pm |
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When I know I'm going to do oil pan gaskets on one of those, I plan ahead. I place the arch gaskets inside a piston ring compressor for a few days to make them take shape. Have the ring compressor set small enough that the gasket ends just touch. Use fresh 3M brand #8001 yellow weather strip glue and attach the side gaskets to the engine and let dry. When pan installation time comes, clip the arch gaskets on the pan after lightly rubbing RTV on both sides of them. Lightly rub the same RTV all over the side gaskets and leave a daub at the 4 places each of the arch gaskets will touch. Use a speed handle to gently and slowly snug up all the pan bolts drawing them down evenly. I never get too tight on any pan bolt and let things cure overnite and them give all the bolts an extra tweak in the morning. Having the side gaskets already securely glued to the engine makes this job easy and leak free.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 5:48pm |
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Chris, would I have to buy the new seal retainer clips or can I reuse the old ones? It looks to me like there is something between the oil pan and bolts on the side rails.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 6:54pm |
Allis Wd45, I didnt have any used clips. So I had to get new ones. Maybe Don or Dr Allis could comment. I think If I had used ones and they looked good and not deformed that they should work as good as new ones. I mean these are only a aid to keeping the front gasket in place while you lift it in place. So that it doesn't get out of location. Not sure what you mean by something between the oil pan and bolts on the side rails.?? Oh I think I know what you mean there is a reinforcement piece/ strip on the pan. Lets see if I have a picture?
This stiffiner is welded to the oil pan.
Good idea to re-flaten any bolt hole area that has been over torqued and dimpled in towards the engine.
Dr. Allis has a good method and I used similar techniques to adhere the side gaskets to the block first.
Here is how I preformed the end gaskets.
This may be a little tough to see but I built a plate with same hole pattern as the pan this clamped the gasket to the block while the Indian head gasket material dried and held the gasket to the block. Also note the two guide pins to help align the pan during assembly. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 8:50pm |
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Chris, I will post a picture of the oil pan. I believe I am thinking of the reinforcements that are welded to the pan. Do you just use a soup can to form the end gasket size or how big is the can?
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 8:57am |
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...round with ends touching....find your can (or that ring compressor
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WF owner
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 9:23am |
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I use a Campbell's soup can (I also use the same cans for exhaust covers). I NEVER throw out one of those cans!
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 11:27am |
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Ok Sounds good. I was looking at the reinforcements that are welded to the pan edges.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 3:58pm |
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The gasket at the end of the distributor housing next to the coil is also leaking. If I replace this gasket will anything fall out or fly across the shop?
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Alvin M
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 4:11pm |
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no
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WF owner
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 4:40pm |
 Allis Wd45 wrote:
The gasket at the end of the distributor housing next to the coil is also leaking. If I replace this gasket will anything fall out or fly across the shop? |
No, but before you remove anything, take the distributor cap off and mark where the rotor is pointing with a permanent marker. If you don't turn the engine over while you have it out, it will be very close on the timing when you reinstall the distributor.
The best way would be to have it a TDC on the compression stroke when you take it apart. The rotor will be pointing to the #1 cylinder plug wire.
It shouldn't be leaking very much because there should be very little oil in the governor.
Edited by WF owner - 02 Jan 2019 at 4:42pm
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 5:17pm |
Allis Wd45, As mentioned nothing will fly out of the back end of the distributor housing. You don't even have to pull the distributor if you dont want to. Find a gasket in a piece of sheet material. Maybe some sealer on both sides and your good to go. Mine was very gunked up in there. The distributor gears need some amount of oil/lube.
My can was a cherry pie filling can!  You going to do this project?? Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 8:55pm |
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Sugarmaker, Yes! I am going to do the oil pan gasket. I think I will leave the front crank seal a lone for now though.
Aaron
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 9:03pm |
Arron, If it will help I have about 50 pictures during mine. Some pictures might help? Let me know. Many other folks on here that can help along the way too! Now that I think about it. Both WD's have threads on here, But it might take a while to find what you need!:) Good Luck. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 02 Jan 2019 at 9:06pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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WF owner
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 9:24pm |
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Make sure you have an AC Shop repair Manual (not IT) and go step by step
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 9:41pm |
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I don’t have a shop manual maybe I should buy an AC Shop manual. I got the pan bolts loose. But I can’t get the pan off. I don’t want to bend it or dent it. I think the gasket is just stuck to the engine.
Aaron
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WF owner
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 9:54pm |
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I think you can still buy original shop manuals through AGCO. You can buy a reproduction from JenSales.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 9:59pm |
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Where is the best place to get the gasket at? I’ve been looking at Steiner’s gasket. But it looks like it’s black in color where the other ones are a light brown like cork. Also there are 4 end gasket pieces shouldn’t there just be 2?
Aaron
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WF owner
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 10:04pm |
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OK Tractor, DJ's Tractor or Tony's Tractor (all forum sponsors) all have good quality parts.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 10:06pm |
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Ok, there are 2 shop manuals on Amazon. One says by AC and had 96 pages and is $22. Another one is by all states ag parts it has 196 pages and is $58.90. Which one is the better one? I assume the All states Ag one.
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WF owner
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 10:10pm |
Here are some other choices:
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WF owner
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 10:12pm |
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Make sure you don't order a CD (unless that is what you want).
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 10:22pm |
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Thanks. I definitely do not want a cd. Can’t take it out to the shop and look at it while I’m at the tractor.
Thanks
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 10:41pm |
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Well I got the pan loose, but it is hitting the front engine mount. Can I wiggle it around and get it out or do I have to remove the engine support. If I do where do you jack the engine up at?
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 11:37pm |
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You can remove the support and no need to jack the engine up. The support may have thin shims so be sure to not lose them as these will need to go back in place after you are finished with the pan gasket.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 3:10am |
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Ok after I posted that I went and looked at some past threads and seen someone comment the same. Thanks
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 3:11am |
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Chris, Yes! If you have pictures that would be awesome. Thanks, Aaron
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