D17D Ignition Switch trouble?

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   I went to fire up the D17D this morning and it whirled right over a few times then everything went suddenly dead. This has done this to me on and off for the past year but I usually just play with the key and it works again. This time I had no luck, so I got off the tractor and tried jumping it by touching the solenoid terminals with a screw driver but nothing happened - I just got a faint spark off the end of the screw driver. I ended up having to tow the tractor. Once running, I noticed the Amp gauge was not showing a charge, it did show a discharge when I turned the lights on. I got out my test light and could clearly see the generator was indeed still charging the battery even though Amp gauge said otherwise. I know I have juice going down into the Solenoid from the Battery too. I have yet to remove all the side panels under the tank and investigate behind the instrument panel. Does it sound like the ignition switch is the culprit or the solenoid? If its the switch, can you still get the orginal style key? Also, I noticed, the manifold heater stopped working now too and It always worked before. There is juice going into the heater solenoid but none coming out when I push the button....could this have anything to do with the starting problem? Could a short here effect everything else?

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JayD-17(NY) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: New York Points: 577	Post Options Post Reply Quote JayD-17(NY) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: D17D Ignition Switch trouble? Posted: 01 Sep 2010 at 3:59pm
	I went to fire up the D17D this morning and it whirled right over a few times then everything went suddenly dead. This has done this to me on and off for the past year but I usually just play with the key and it works again. This time I had no luck, so I got off the tractor and tried jumping it by touching the solenoid terminals with a screw driver but nothing happened - I just got a faint spark off the end of the screw driver. I ended up having to tow the tractor. Once running, I noticed the Amp gauge was not showing a charge, it did show a discharge when I turned the lights on. I got out my test light and could clearly see the generator was indeed still charging the battery even though Amp gauge said otherwise. I know I have juice going down into the Solenoid from the Battery too. I have yet to remove all the side panels under the tank and investigate behind the instrument panel. Does it sound like the ignition switch is the culprit or the solenoid? If its the switch, can you still get the orginal style key? Also, I noticed, the manifold heater stopped working now too and It always worked before. There is juice going into the heater solenoid but none coming out when I push the button....could this have anything to do with the starting problem? Could a short here effect everything else?

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Brian Jasper co. Ia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2010 at 4:14pm
	Could be a broken wire. Just going to have to get behind the panel and see what's wrong. Steiner Tractor Parts has the original style switch and keys or the newer type like a riding mower uses. A test light is not a very good test to verify if the generator is working. Put a volt meter across the batteries and see what the voltage is with the engine running at 1/2 throttle or faster. If you have an owners manual or a I&T manual, they have a wiring schematic that's pretty easy to follow. Seems like there is a fuse holder on the panel.
	"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

DSeries4 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7379	Post Options Post Reply Quote DSeries4 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Sep 2010 at 6:07pm
	You might want to check your voltage regulator first. Just had this happen on my 17 IV. The generator was working, but not charging the battery. As far as switch availability goes, if you have the newer style Indak key (small key), they are still available through AGCO for a decent price. The older style ignition switch can be found through some of the vendors on this site. Personally, I get mine out of scrapped combines like Es, Fs, and Ks (once that have a cab). They tend to have lots of life left in them.

1946WP Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 25 Apr 2010 Location: mn Points: 780	Post Options Post Reply Quote 1946WP Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Sep 2010 at 9:02am
	I had a new btry cable on my wd45 that was loose where it clamped on the wire looked good but was not making good contact. replaced cable & problem solved.

Matt MN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Silver lake MN Points: 1491	Post Options Post Reply Quote Matt MN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Sep 2010 at 9:36am
	Sounds like dirty or loose conections somewhere. Start at the battery and work your way towards the solonoids cleaning and tighting the connections.
	Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!

TomMN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elbow Lake, MN Points: 858	Post Options Post Reply Quote TomMN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Sep 2010 at 10:07am
	Our car did that for a while, the problem was the battery itself. I think there must have been an internal crack in a main connection in the battery. Replaced the battery and all is well.

Stan IL&TN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stan IL&TN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Sep 2010 at 12:30pm
	If the battery is good with a good charge and you only get a weak spark jumping the selonoid then you have a bad connection from the battery or a bad ground. Check those connections if the battery is good.
	1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson

JayD-17(NY) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: New York Points: 577	Post Options Post Reply Quote JayD-17(NY) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Sep 2010 at 2:28pm
	Thanks for all the suggestions.I'll recheck my connections again, but I saw no loose or broken wires anywhere. I tried the lights again and today they came on weak and then not all all, at 1st I thought whatever is causing the tractor not to turn over must have drained the batteries dead but I got out my test meter and they were at full charge ....I towed the tractor to start it and tried the lights again and they came on bright as can be....Whatever is causing this ....A) Does not allow the lights to come on when the tractor is not running. B) Doesnt allow the ammeter to show a charge even though the generator is working and C) The main problem , wont allow the starter and or solenoid to work.