Next project: 7060

Although my list of projects to work on never actually gets smaller, I have started in on this one. It is a 1978 (black belly) 7060 powershift that has been sitting untouched in a shed for the past 10-15 years, with mice, and has somewhere in the 5000-6000 hour range. It is my cousin’s, and I’m planning on purchasing it to run on a 11 row soybean planter, alongside a few John Deere’s and my other Allis’s. Here is the list I have come across so far:
New batteries
Cab interior kit
Fuel shut-off cable
All fluids and filters
Exhaust manifold
Mirrors
Fuel/water temp gauge
   Tires

I’m sure I’ll end up with more than that, but there’s a start.
I hooked up a battery from my WD45, and all the lights still work, along with the dash lights, and even the radio.
I did purchase two batteries yesterday for it, and I found out that if you put four batteries in, it would cost 10% of the entire tractor’s value!!
It has probably 1/3 tank of fuel on the left tank, but I haven’t checked the right one. I’m planning on draining that into buckets and putting fresh in. I also purchased some Stanadyne additive to help get some lube ran through it.
With the exhaust manifold, it is cracked. Is it a good idea to have it welded on, or just replace it?

Now for the tires! After a quick look around, it seems quite impossible to find a set of reasonably priced tires. The ones on it are likely the original duals, and probably the fronts also. The inside ones are better than the duals, but nothing impressive. I’m guessing I’ll need new front ones, but I’d like to find a set of good used Radials for the rears.
Would 20.8R38’s go on in place of the original 18.4/38’s?

Does anyone here have any recommendations on what to do to this tractor after sitting for so long?
Thanks in advance!!

That’s a good looking 7060. Glad your going to fix her up. With todays computerized and less reliable tractors, it makes more sense to me to put money in the older tractors. Neighbor had to have his green machine computer scanned because it wouldn’t start. Mechanic trip charge and a 10 minute diagnostic got him a bill for over $400. That didn’t include the repair. Any of the 3 sensors and a fuel pump could have been the issue. Turned out to be a $1,800 pump. Transmission also had to be tweaked by the laptop to correct a shifting issue, not sure how much that set him back. New tractors have nice features and are comfortable, but no way we can justify their price for our small farm. All AC to this day and plan to keep it that way until parts aren’t available. Look forward to seeing pictures when you get her cleaned And fixed up.

It is entirely possible the pump is gummed, but if the fuel doesn't smell like latex house paint, install the batteries and crank it up.  More than likely it is just fine.  I would pre-oil it if you have that option, but as long as you don't rev it any after it starts for 30 seconds, it really isn't going to be that big of deal.  If it has indeed been sitting for 15 years, that would likely take it back to when the fuel was good, and would last 25 years, not this current crap.

I've logged a few hours in 7060's.  Still have the 2 Dad & I used to farm with.  A red belly built in November of 1977 and a black belly built in 1981.  Yes the engine can be turned over without opening the fuel shut off valve.  I've accidentally done it.  It's a manual shut off controlled by a pull out knob on the dash on the left side.  I still enjoy driving these tractors.  The 7000 series cab is actually a pretty good cab for the era.  Not anywhere near as fancy as the new tractors and definitely without all the gadgets.  And that's OK with me.  The stadium lights were a great addition.  Have you tried finding tires at a salvage yard?  

Unless them tires are just completely dry rotted or might pop any time,, I'd run em..there is no real bargains on tractor tires,,, ya jus hafta suck it up an get em...the 20.8's should be ok but do really need a wider rim..18.4's need 18 inch rim, 20.8's take a 18 inch I think...

2 batteries start my 7060 ok,, now really cold might need some help, but I don't use it in the winter..

I would do a complete new exhaust manifold..but I think ASAP has each section available...

A new cab interior will make it like a new one..if I ever get the cab top off mine again,, I will add dynomat, or similar for more noise control and insulation..
With the top off, clean the heat/AC cores,replace the heater hoses,make sure the heat valve works...I put a manual water cut off in one of the hoses on the engine..

Personally, I wouldnt spend anything on tires until I used it for about a year. Make sure it is worth the inbestment and not a money pit. Once you spend $2200-2500 on tires you are married to it. For better or worse. I wouldnt fix anything until it is broke. Good tractors. Enjoy!

Take the fuel tanks off and pressure wash them out. Algae can make a mess of new filters. I would also remove the roof cap and give it a pressure washing. A 7060 PS long axle is on my want list. Does yours come with Mexican Hats?

My cousin has a large collection of Allis’s, in which I’ve been working on/ using/ purchasing over the past couple years. Besides this tractor, the rest were namely WC’s, WD’s, and 45’s, along with the beloved D-21. He originally purchased this tractor in the mid-1990’s, with plans of renting/farming a couple hundred acres. His father had 20 acres of farm ground already, and they farmed it as a ‘Retirement Farm’. Anyways, his father passed away in the early 2000’s, and he didn’t further the farming idea, since he was retirement age also, and put the 20 acres into CRP. After talking with him today, there was a time in 2010 or 2011 that he used it for to disk and seed the CRP in, so it has actually only been probably 7-8 years since it was used last. The tank looked pretty decent, and didn’t smell bad, but I’ll look into it more tomorrow.
As for the tires, the duals are low or maybe completely flat, and where it’s squashy on the bottom, the lugs look like they’ll fall off along with part of the sidewalls when it runs down the road. Another possibility that may work is to put the tires off of his D-21 on the duals, since he’s putting some 20.8’s on it. And as for the front ones, if they would hold air even though stalks and stubble, that would work for me, but if they keep getting poked through the cracks, it’ll only take a couple $60 tire repairs to pay new ones off.
Being that he did have it running good 7-8 years ago, and he did mention that he put an additive that’s supposed to keep it fresher, I’m hoping maybe the pump isn’t gummed up. My cousin is going to help me get it going.
I can’t wait to hear it run!

Orange Glow wrote: Well, even with a couple days of messing with it, it’s not running yet. I got the fuel drained and new put in, new fuel filter also. It did smoke while cranking towards the beginning, but it doesn’t really do much of that now, so I’m guessing it’s an air in the fuel problem. I pumped the primer good and many times, but it leaks fuel while pumping. Has anyone else had that be the problem, the primer letting air in through it? It would fire with ether, but not enough to run.

Edited by Orange Blood - 11 Dec 2018 at 7:17pm

Don't count the injection pump out yet.

Edited by Orange Blood - 12 Dec 2018 at 6:33pm

AC720Man wrote: The above proceeded should work but I open the bleeder valve at the filter, use the primer to get fuel to that point and then close it. Open the timing cover on the pump, and use the primer once more until fuel runs out the window. Close the window and Then follow the above procedure. Not sure if the 7060 works this way, but its how I do it on my XT. 7060 is a lot newer and a 426 cu engine so it may have different procedure.

Thanks, Orange Blood!! I will do that tomorrow, and maybe, just maybe, it will solve the problem!!
I am prone to lose small pieces, and it is a dirt floor with lots of “stuff” around, so hopefully it works well enough to not take the plate off the injection pump.

The shop itself isn’t warm, but today was close to 40 degrees out. There isn’t any electricity there, so I have been running a generator to run the factory block heater, then a magnetic one on the other side under the intake, and I’ve been running the battery charger on it also almost the whole time. The whole engine was nice and warm after two or three hours.
If I can get it to run before too long, I’d have some nice days to change oils, and get it washed up nice! At least according to the forecast.

If you don't already know...ask for procedure before just pulling pump off.

allisrutledge wrote: This may be a silly question but is it warm in your shop when your trying to start it?

Odds are the metering valve at least is stuck and very likely the plungers are stuck too. The Roosa pumps don't like sitting in old fuel, especially modern fuel lol! I feel if it was going to work, it would have started squirting fuel by now. When they are stuck, I generally have to tap plungers out with a hammer and punch after teardown. I'd take the top cover off and see what it looks like inside. That will definitely give an idea on which direction to go. If it's nasty inside, do not force it to run like that, it may end up seizing the head. Then it gets a lot more pricey to fix. Good luck!