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SLB 
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Joined: 05 Feb 2018
Location: Ohio
Points: 42
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 Topic: spin out rims
Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 6:49pm |
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Was warm today so I started tinkering and started adjusting the wheel base on the Family's wd45. Has new spinout rims but they have never been adjusted in the last 10 years. Anyway, got it to adjust but I am having trouble with the rims staying locked in the preferred distance. Any Ideas? Any comments appreciated. Thanks, Steve
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7331
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Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 6:53pm |
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The eccentrics have to be tightened up all the way. Might need to put a pipe on the end of the socket. Also put the wheel locks back on the rail which has the holes - 2 on each rail.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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j.w.freck
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: karnack texas
Points: 1153
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Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 6:57pm |
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jack up the wheel,place the lock to be removed at the top,remove the locks 2 bolts holding it on,remove lock,soak in penetrating oil remove the snap ring on the lock drive it out,buff it up and use some anti seize compound and reinstall.i have overhauled 10 or 11 sets this way.....
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SLB
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Location: Ohio
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Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 6:35pm |
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Thank You or both responses. I have all but two tightened down . So I have everything soaking and will work on them this week end. I will need to get new tires some time this year and will break everything down and give them a proper cleaning. Steve
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
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Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 10:50pm |
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Steve, you loosen them from the top down and you tighten them from the bottom up.
As JW says, use some anti-sieze, but do so SPARINGLY!! DO NOT get any on the square lock pin. That will REALLY make it slip on the rail.
There's a sure fire way to get them cleaned up when they have sat for years and get all rusted up. I've got a tutorial on here somewhere that tells it in detail. I'll see if I can find it
When you are tightening them, you need to go completely over so the stop is touching. You can't have them loose at all. Good luck and if you need any further assistance, just PM me and I'll give you my cell number and help you out.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Ted J
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Location: La Crosse, WI
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Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 10:54pm |
Found this: Jack up the rear of the tractor. BLOCK it up so that it can't fall over!! Are the tires LOADED? This has to be dealt with or be VERY careful when moving the tire! Take
out the two bolts (carriage) that hold EACH eccentric in place. That
means you have to take out 8 bolts on each side and then proceed as
follows. Try to take the tire and rim off the tractor. Hopefully the
eccentrics will fall off the wheel. This might take some
persuasion.....I had to use a pry bar under the eccentric to get it to come loose from the wheel. They were rusted together. Took some beating on my part! Try to slide the whole clamp off the rail and hope that it isn't rusted in place!! If it is, you'll have to beat that off also. NOW, like Cal says..... "by putting the whole assembly in hot coals of the wood stove
at night.
By morning take them out and rust us gone and they turn freely, does not
seem to affect the hardening or the life of them. Cal in Ct" Or just
start a fire outside in a pit, like a camping fire, and forget them till
tomorrow. They DO fall apart after that. There is a 'snap ring'
holding the eccentric pin into the assembly. BE VERY CAREFUL taking
that off as you can't find them any more. Just two (old) screwdrivers working to get it up and off. Now
just tap out the eccentric pin. It is what everyone refers to as the
bolt, but it isn't a bolt. It has the tab on it that allows it to spin
back and forth between tight and loose. Now just clean them up.
Knock out all the rust and then wire brush them. Or better yet, if you
have access to a sandblaster, it will be a lot easier. Now put
anti--sieze on the eccentric bolt and the bolts/nuts that hold the
assembly in place and the back side of the assembly. You probably won't
need to take them off again in your lifetime, but it'll make it easier
for the next guy. Don't get any anti-sieze on the rim lock wedges! On the face that goes against the rim rail. They tend to slip then. Hope this helps....There are several threads on here for doing this, all you need to do is search.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 21 Feb 2018 at 4:46am |
If the rails on the wheel are worn, sometimes you can put a shim, between the square rail follower, and the rail, then retighten. Sometimes it only takes 1 shim sometimes more. On my D-15II, I used a busted hacksaw blade, on 1 clamp, after I ground off the teeth... 
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JoeO(CMO)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Cent Missouri
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Posted: 21 Feb 2018 at 7:25am |
Some time back when the wife of just shy of 50 years asked if I would clean the oven while she went to her volunteer job, I said yes, so I went to the shop and brought the stuck assemblies to the kitchen, placed them on an old cookie sheet, placed in the oven and turned it on the clean mode, opened the outside door and watched TV. When the clean operation was finished, so were the adjusters.
Edited by JoeO(CMO) - 21 Feb 2018 at 7:26am
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Ted J
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Posted: 21 Feb 2018 at 1:56pm |
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And WHAT happened to you Joe when she got home??!!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Don(MO)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 21 Feb 2018 at 2:18pm |
 JoeO(CMO) wrote:
Some time back when the wife of just shy of 50 years asked if I would clean the oven while she went to her volunteer job, I said yes, so I went to the shop and brought the stuck assemblies to the kitchen, placed them on an old cookie sheet, placed in the oven and turned it on the clean mode, opened the outside door and watched TV. When the clean operation was finished, so were the adjusters.
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I used the wife's roster pot with s lid in the oven on clean that lid helps keep the smoke in the pan and not all over the inside of the oven. PS- PLEASE don't tell on me. lmao
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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JoeO(CMO)
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Location: Cent Missouri
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Posted: 21 Feb 2018 at 4:53pm |
Ted J wrote:
And WHAT happened to you Joe when she got home??!!
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Ted, when she returned the oven was clean and I never offered any more info. She was pleased!
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SLB
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Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 8:32pm |
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Hello again. I know A.C. had a tool that was used to loosen the eccentrics pins. What size was the head on the pin? (3/4)? or something different. Thanks, Steve
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DiyDave
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Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 8:57pm |
SLB wrote:
Hello again. I know A.C. had a tool that was used to loosen the eccentrics pins. What size was the head on the pin? (3/4)? or something different. Thanks, Steve |
It was like a Budd wheel wrench, 2 piece, 2 different sockets on a piece of round stock, lug nut for the front, PA size for the rear. Other piece was the handle, plain round stock, on one end it was crimped, to keep it from sliding out... some D series used same sizes, D-10, CA, used a 1/2" square instead of the 6 point 3/4 or 13/16, used on the bigger tractors. D-19, bigger still...
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Ted J
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Posted: 25 Feb 2018 at 4:42am |
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A 3/4 socket fits too tight and if you try to use a 12pt. it'll probably strip or crack the socket. Don't ask me how I know.... I think I used a 25/32 8pt. but it would still slip. That was until I got them ALL CLEANED UP.
Once I got the eccentrics all cleaned up and LIGHTLY lubed, then the 25/32 worked fine.
You just HAVE to get them cleaned first. Then it's easy.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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DiyDave
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Posted: 25 Feb 2018 at 5:15am |
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The bolt heads , on the adjusters are a little rough in casting, supposed to be 3/4" but often needs a little filing, to get them there. The AC wheel wrenches fit them just fine...
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im4racin
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Posted: 25 Feb 2018 at 7:21am |
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I use a 20mm 6pt sockets. I have one 1/2 and 3/4 drive. One to break loose and one for the stuff I have loosened up,
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IBWD MIke
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Posted: 25 Feb 2018 at 9:19am |
im4racin wrote:
I use a 20mm 6pt sockets. I have one 1/2 and 3/4 drive. One to break loose and one for the stuff I have loosened up, |
I have had good luck with the 20 mm socket too. Have one I welded to a 1/2-3/4 adapter for the really stuck ones.
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SLB
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Posted: 25 Feb 2018 at 1:03pm |
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Does anyone make the aftermarket wrench?
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Tom IA
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Posted: 25 Feb 2018 at 2:15pm |
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I use a 6 point 3/4 drive impact socket with 3/4 braker bar, fits tight sometimes have to tap on with hammer but is a good tight fit for tight ones
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Ted J
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Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 6:35am |
SLB wrote:
Does anyone make the aftermarket wrench? |
Not that I've ever heard of. Go into the classifieds section and put in a WTB (wanted to buy). But to be honest, I think you'd be a lot happier to have a MM socket to do the job with.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Allis dave
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Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 6:55am |
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I bought a 25/32 6-point socket. It fits all the ones that a 3/4 doesn't. Whatever you use, a 6 point is much better than a 12
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