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AC6080MAINE 
Silver Level
Joined: 22 Nov 2016
Location: Maine
Points: 60
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 Topic: 6080 Brake Level sensor
Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 5:22pm |
Hi all, trying to get a better understanding of how the brake level sensor works. I searched and found some info from johnwilson that stated:
The brake light is probably the sensor put in wrong. If you look at the cap, there is a little rod with a copper ring on it. When the fluid drops, it hits the contact in the filler neck. If the rod is put in incorrectly, it always hits the contact, even with full fluid. I think you need to pull part of the rod out of the cap if I remember correctly.
Can someone elaborate on this at all? It looks like my cap has its own separate little cap, but it doesnt fit on snugly. Is it broken? I includedsome picture for reference. Thank you.
Also, can someone tell me if this is the ether injection unit? It looks like it is when i compare it to the agco parts book pictures. I'm missing some parts though if it is. Could I get some advice on how to get it back operational?
Thank you
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DSeries4
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7372
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Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 5:51pm |
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I can't help you on your brakes, but I can say that you do have the ether injector. However it is missing the can of either. I think it will accept most cans of starting fluid.
Personally, I would much rather use the manifold heater. I try to avoid using ether where possible. If you have the heater, I would recommend it. If you do not have it, I have a brand new kit from AGCO that will fit right on your tractor.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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hillmonkey
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Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Location: oville fl
Points: 417
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Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 6:28pm |
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The yellow cap is designed to stay in black cap, when the black part is unscrewed to add or ck fluid it should let the black cap spin but not spin with it so the sensor wire does not tangle. look under the yellow cap and see those white pieces? they should snap into the black part. they loose there ability to hold form and or crack over time from being in petrol base environment.look to see if they are broke or collapsed, also possible for the seal or gasket on the bottom of the yellow cap to be deformed or missing over time although it looks like on that one the yellow does all the seal duties.
pull the wires off the sensor and ck for continuity with a meter when moving the white float up and down.if it shows the float sensor working trace the problem further.
Edited by hillmonkey - 08 Dec 2016 at 6:44pm
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PeteMN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Hutchinson, MN
Points: 196
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Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 7:05pm |
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You're missing the side straps and bottom adjustment device that tightens the can of ether up into the head. I just put a new can of ether into my 6080 and it looked like every other ether kit. Didn't take the side straps off, just pivoted them back and changed cans, pulled the straps back under the new can and tightened it back up. There is a foam-type seal where the can fits up to the head and it can fall out sometimes.
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AC6080MAINE
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Joined: 22 Nov 2016
Location: Maine
Points: 60
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Posted: 08 Dec 2016 at 7:10pm |
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Thanks guys! I will do some testing on that brake cap and report back.
I do have the manifold heater. I read it should be held for 45 seconds before starting so I need to give it some more time in this 20 degree weather we have been having. I appreciate it.
Edited by AC6080MAINE - 08 Dec 2016 at 7:16pm
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LB0442
Orange Level
Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Location: Boise ID
Points: 767
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Posted: 09 Dec 2016 at 9:08am |
Here is a picture of my 6080. I had the same problem with the brake cap when I got mine. This is the agco replacement one. Nothing I could do with the older one and it was letting dirt in the system. I noticed your wires are off the air cleaner restriction indicator on the air intake. Could be due to a bad sensor or someone forgot to put them on. I am kinda fussy, I like all of the lights and sensors to be working, I guess I am a member of the correct police.
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bradley6874
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Joined: 05 Sep 2010
Location: salisbury md
Points: 1349
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Posted: 09 Dec 2016 at 5:16pm |
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Hydraulic fluid not brake fluid is what is supposed to go in the brakes
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: 09 Dec 2016 at 10:07pm |
 bradley6874 wrote:
Hydraulic fluid not brake fluid is what is supposed to go in the brakes |
Brake fluid.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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LB0442
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Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Location: Boise ID
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Posted: 10 Dec 2016 at 12:34pm |
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No it is hydraulic oil in the brake reservoir.
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bradley6874
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Location: salisbury md
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Posted: 10 Dec 2016 at 9:04pm |
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Yes just to make this clear the brakes use hydraulic fluid not brake fluid so that if it leaks internal it dosent affect the hydraulic system
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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DougG
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Location: Mo
Points: 8175
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Posted: 11 Dec 2016 at 11:19am |
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Brake fluid ruins the rubber O rings and the fluid then bypasses , gotta used 10 wt or hyd. fluid
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kev/ont
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Castleton Ont
Points: 282
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Posted: 11 Dec 2016 at 12:19pm |
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You can buy that cap at any cnh dealer as well 35 series as well as tn and tl series tractors use that cap. They also have hydraulic brake fluid that works well in those systems.
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AC6080MAINE
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Joined: 22 Nov 2016
Location: Maine
Points: 60
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Posted: 14 Dec 2016 at 11:29am |
LB, thanks again for the pics they really are worth 1000 words. I tried to order a new cap from my AGCO dealer, it was $60 so i said no thanks. I was able to get mine in decent working shape. It at least will not allow any crud to get in the reservoir. It looks like good clean hydraulic fluid in there with a good level, so i'm not going to touch it.
As far as the little things go, I will get there eventually. The AGCO dealer was not able to get me the ether bale, so i have found a used one. LB how often do you find yourself giving it ether to start? Do you just give the button a quick poke once its turning over and throwing out smoke? At what temps do you need to?
I will be investigating the air cleaner next. I don't have the precleaner, but I pulled off the primary air filter and it was missing the fine particle secondary air filter. I have that on order now. I'll get the sensor hooked back up and once i have the proper filters in place, we'll see if the light goes out. How common is it that the sensor fails? Why would someone unplug the leads?
Thanks guys.
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LB0442
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Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Location: Boise ID
Points: 767
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Posted: 14 Dec 2016 at 3:59pm |
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Mine has around 7000 hrs, very little blowby. I had the injectors and pump redone while I had the head off so it doesn't smoke at all, very little under load. Runs great, nice and smooth. That being said I do have to use the ether below 40 or so. It does not have the manifold heater, 1983 model. Just one shot will get it going, usually. The other day it was about 20 and I haven't used it in about 2 weeks and it needed a second hit to fire??
I checked my air cleaner sensor with a vacuum pump when I got it just to confirm it worked. I think it came on around 18 inches? Went off after that and I haven't worried about it since. My older 7000 series don't have that sensor so I don't know how reliable they are. Just have to plug it in and see what happens.
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