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7060 performance parts |
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 10:43am |
Does anyone out there have any performance parts, for sale, or advise on pulling with a 7060 power director tractor. Just started pulling this year, tractor is holding together and seems to be doing well. I am around 100 hp over stock now, hoping with some pump work, bigger injectors, and lines to be at the 300 -350 hp range for next year. Thanks, Mike
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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If you haven't tied down your torque limiter yet, you need to do that first. If you still intend on farming with it, I'd have a pulling pump and pulling injectors to swap out for the Summer Pulling season. I've never swapped any injector lines. Turbocharger needs to be improved, and a 3LM466 Schweitzer would work for pulling and farming. There are better ones out there than a 3LM also. Windshield washer fluid injected into the airstream ahead of the turbocharger is good for 50-60 HP and pretty easy to install and remove after season. If the tractor is to be a dedicated Puller, then that changes things.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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thanks for the reply, I do not need to use it to farm anymore, I work at a diesel repair shop, the guys in the pump shop rebuilt pump last winter, turned it up as much as they could while still on the engine, I can pull it this winter, I guess they can do some internal upgrades yet, have new injector nozzle's, was also planning on sending out to be machined bigger as well, I did install a new 3lm turbo, the turbo moves air, and keeps the exhaust very clean, how ever, I do run out of fuel to keep it spooled at the end of a run. The tractor was in at an old Allis dealer for much of the winter, it had new torque limiter clutch installed with the heaviest disc, and double spring pressure plate, also had the entire power director looked over resealed, and repaired as needed, as well as the power director valve body resealed. the tractor worked well in the field, and seemed to be good on the track, I have been able to launch in 3rd high, and shift power director both ways with out slippage. So with what I have told you, in your opinion with a little more power, will I need to do any more drive line upgrades, or may it be ok for this year? I have located a power director assembly out of a 7580, thinking about picking it up now, and saving it until needed. Any thoughts? thanks, mike
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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7080/7580/N6 injection pump is better than your 7060 pump by far. Double sprung torque limiter should hold 300 HP pretty easy, I would think. Injectors need to be 4 hole X .020" minimum set to 2500 to 2800 psi.
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Gary(WI)
Orange Level Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Location: WI Points: 995 |
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I have a core pump for you with the 3.1 head if interested. $200 9two0 25three 8192
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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thanks for the info, I have learned that it may be possible to take a power director from a 7060, put a different piston in it, and be able to fit one more disc and plate in. Can anyone confirm that is possible? thanks Mike
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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A 7030/7040 clutch has 3 discs in low range. A 7045/7050/7060 has 4 discs in low range. Change the clutch piston on a 7030/7040 and add an extra disc. You already have a 7060, so you are at 4 discs in LOW RANGE. High range has two discs in ALL models except late 7080/7580, which can have 5 in low and 3 in high, and low range separator plates are thicker to withstand more heat before warping.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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Ah right right right, that makes sense. So could a guy fit the thicker plates in the clutch packs on this 7060 would you think?
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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Some machining would have to happen to stuff the thicker plates in low range.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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ok but it is possible, and perhaps has been done before? Is there any chance or way to do enough machining of the 7060 clutch housing or piston to fit another disc and plate inside that one? I am considering buying a second tractor for parts basically and am wondering if I would then have a spare director that could be built up.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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Your best Power Director clutch would be from a very late 7080 or 7580. Get the whole clutch and both drive hubs. I would consider adding the thicker plates in HIGH side to that clutch. Disc count is 5 low and 3 high.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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Ok I am looking at a second 7060, I was curious if anyone had figured out a way of getting the 5th disc on that assembly, of if there is no chance of that, lots of other usable parts on this tractor for me. To buy and haul a 7580 from god knows where, may be a real head ache.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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Well, I know of one local Puller who bought the whole P.D. clutch from a salvage 7580, so they are out there.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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Yes you are correct, I have a line on a director from a 7580, it is still in the tractor, but at the best price, and shipping it still would cost more then this entire running operating tractor I found, so that's a tough one to swallow you know.
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BKarpel
Bronze Level Joined: 27 Apr 2012 Location: Collinsville IL Points: 108 |
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Can you take out the power direct and install a gear box in its place? You would have to redo the clutch and get it to all line up. I think the gutless general AC 7030 did this. I know he's running a 7000 series rear end.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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Hmm not sure about that, at least in this 7000 series chassis the power director is your only way to disengage the engine, so not sure how you would make that work, I thought about that as well, if you could make a coupling for the power director assembly, and made yourself a throw out of some kind, and use the torque limiter as the clutch of the tractor...... Any ideas?
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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I did purchase a second 7060 tractor thinking I will take the director out of that and see what can be done to either fit the thicker steel plates in, or maybe come up with something else.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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Does anyone have any information about making a "dual disc" torque limiter? Or is there need for concern of breaking the center drive hub of the torque limiting clutch? thanks Mike
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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Existing hub isn't going to be a problem.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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Hmm so the upgraded disc with 6 pads is plenty strong? The only reason I ask is, the stock torque limiting clutch disc I had, exploded while running on the dyno and shattered the center of the disc. Not sure of condition, or if installed correctly, that was right when I purchased tractor.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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Any time a torque limiter is assembled, it must be centered ASAP. To center the disc, the engine has to be full throttle, transmission in a gear of 10 MPH or more, and brakes applied forcefully, trying to kill the engine. At some point before engine stall, the torque limiter will slip, immediately centering the disc to the flywheels center. Sounds like whomever did the install didn't do that. If the limiter was double-sprung, it becomes even more important to do this. Depending on the actual size of the pads, 6 pads will actually hold less torque than 4 pads when they are under the same assembled pressure. If you are serious about making high HP, you probably need to have a drive disc built for this job. Bolts up to the flywheel already centered.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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Hmm that's very good info to have, so if you put some "stop" bolts in the flywheel, how would you be able to center the clutch disc? Or where would you be able to get this drive disc? One person I have talked to, keeps advising me to put a second disc in and turn it into a dual disc, they seem to keep saying that some of the pullers are doing that, and you want there to be some slippage there. I'm not sure if I will have issues with the torque limiter slipping next season or not. Im not quite sure just how much more power I will be putting out after some upgrades this winter, but I am attempting to get a handle on just how far I may need to go to get the power to the ground.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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You need to go back to this guy and get your twin-disc information. I've never done it like that. I'm sure a Company called High-Capacity can make you a bolt in drive disc. For your twin-disc drive, custom parts will have to be made for it as well. The clutch input shaft is only so long and if you're going to have two narrow hubs on it, those parts will have to be made.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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So if you got yourself some kind of a bolt in drive hub, you would have to get the flywheel machined correctly so it would be aligned when it is installed? I am assuming that the input shaft to the power director does not have any kind of pilot on the shaft, and that is why you have to align it with a stall load?
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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If you look at the flywheel, it has a way of centering a bolt on drive disc. There is a machined step and 6 half-inch bolts to attach it to. Should be no problem for a builder to attach a springless drive hub to a disc.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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Ahh I see, so they use the machined area of the flywheel where the flywheel bolts to the crank, so is that drive disc bolted right to the flywheel? and the pressure plate is no longer used? Or is it just a rigid center on a disc, and the other parts of the limiter are still used?
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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All limiter parts are scrapped. Use existing holes in the flywheel to mount the new drive disc with hub.
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mbachmojave
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2016 Location: mosinee, wi Points: 85 |
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Ok that gives me plenty to think about, what are your thoughts on the engine? I have a good running engine everything works as it should, I believe it to be original, I ran it with fuel pump turned up and upgraded turbo, now have upgraded entire fuel system, turbo should be plenty big, what else do I need to do to hopefully keep it together for next year with out a total overhaul? Rod bolts and bearings, heavier valve springs, and crossed fingers? thanks
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20475 |
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Unless you're going to run over 3,000 RPM all the time, stock valve springs are fine. You will probably fail a head gasket at some point when you get much over 40 pounds of boost.
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7040
Orange Level Joined: 11 Aug 2013 Location: newglarus wi Points: 418 |
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While you're doing rod bolts you schould consider having rods hardened. Also pull sleaves and have grooved for fire rings. The head gasket will fail if you don't
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