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12V conversion questions

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Larry in OK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Larry in OK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 12V conversion questions
    Posted: 14 Jun 2010 at 11:38pm
Decided to put a 12V alternator on my '52 CA. Got it up and running on the alternator today but I may have to do some more tweaking on the bracket for clearance issues but I think I'm going to be able to handle that, maybe.

First problem is with the alternator exciter wired to the coil side of the switch, when I turn the switch off I'm still getting voltage feed back from the exciter and the kill switch doesn't.
DO I need a diode/resistor/warning light or a combination to correct that?

2nd issue is I'm getting 16 to as much as 17.5 volts read at the battery at 3/4 to full throttle. That seems a bit high to me. After market amp gauge is showing 30+ amps at full throttle.


Edited by Larry in OK - 14 Jun 2010 at 11:41pm
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 6:08am
My 'new' D-14 has the resistor in the circuit, my 'old' D-14 has a diode,so the choice is up to you.A diode will block all curent flow, the resistor slows it down... Someone here can link you the wiring,
 
The voltages sound OK,you need more than 14V to charge the battery to 14 volts.30Amps sounds like the battery needs a charge! Does it go down after a few minutes(battery charged up)?
 
Also did you compare the readings to your truck or another tractor? The voltmeter may be 'generous' in the reading.Cheap digital meters can add noise to he readings and vary a lot in quality,Old school analog meters are more 'stable'.
 
hth jay
 
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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omahagreg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote omahagreg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 6:20am
A properly working altenator will not put out more than 14.6 volts at full load, at idle. 
Greg Kroeker
1950 WD with wide front and Freeman trip loader
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JoeO(CMO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeO(CMO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 6:30am
I'm always interested in the fabrication of mounts for an alternator on the B, C, CA, D10-D15 engines, anyone have pictures of their mounts?




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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 6:53am
Joe, I used the original mount for the altn on my CA. It sets the altn back a little too far to make the pulley line up so I made a new pulley with a longer hub. It seemed like the thing to do at the time. LOL
  DO I need a diode/resistor/warning light or a combination to correct that?
I believe any one of these will work. I have the diode in mine.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 15 Jun 2010 at 6:56am
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 8:35am
Anything higher than 14.5 is an overcharging problem. 13.9-14.5 is your normal charging range. 14.2 is ideal. At present, you're boiling the Battery 17V. Make sure you run an auxilary ground wire off the Alt ground boss to a good clean ground on the engine.  A 1 amp/50V diode downstream in the feed circuit to the VR from the ignition switch will sever off any power that would energize the ignition circuit to keep the engine running after the key is off. Use of a Voltmeter is strongly advised when using an Alternator in lieu of an Ammeter. Also, a fusable link between the Alternator and the main output stud back to the Battery is a good addition for protection on the Alt side. If for some reason a draw develops on the Battery side thats high enough to start trouble, the fuse link will sever before damage to the Alternator can occur. Always use a fuse link 2 sizes smaller than the main feed. ie- 10gauge main/14 gauge fuse link. All these features are in my 12V conversion kits.  HTH
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 9:10am
You need a voltage regulator, either a replacement or one added to the circuit.

Gerald J.
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MilesGray (CO/KS) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MilesGray (CO/KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 9:19am
My 44 'C' has an alternator off a 74 Chevy Malibu and that has an internal voltage regulator. I also have one that sits between the battery and the starter. Is there any problem with this as long as it works?
Miles Gray (CO/KS)

5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 4:36pm
The internal regulators are probably newer and solid state which results is more precise regulation than the magnetic regulators. And that's good for better battery life.

Gerald J.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 5:13pm
Miles, if you have two different tractors and one has internal and one has external regulaltors, thats fine. If you have both on the same alternator, i would get rid of the external reg. If the internal one is failed, installing an external is not a good fix.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 5:15pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 5:19pm
the above is one of the smaller newer CS130 type DElco alternator.. it is actually a CS120 which is less available than the 130.  I made the bracet using the original generator mount holes. the alternator needs to set further forward so i offset the bracket and let the alternator set in front of the two ears. There is a spacer tube between the ears, and a used a 7/16 bolt about 6 inches long for the mount. YOu can buy the electrical socket that goes into the alternator "plug" at Auto Zone for about $7.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Larry in OK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Larry in OK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2010 at 5:20pm
Well crud, this should have been a pretty straight forward conversion. The diode/resistor thing was in my head but I didn't want to make another trip to town for more parts.
The overcharging thing annoys me the most since this is a new/rebuilt internally regulated alternator. I'm using a pretty high end Fluke digital meter and it shows 14.5 on my pickup. Now I'll have to yank it and let the guy at the parts place test it for me to be sure.
I guess I souldn't gripe too much as the guy that runs the parts house is an old friend and gave me pretty much his cost price on the alternator and battery.
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