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Valve Springs

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Ryan59 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 Jun 2016 at 8:43pm
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Would there be any issues caused by doubling the stock valve spring pressure? I am considering installing stock Chevrolet valve springs in a 125ci engine. 
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 2016 at 9:56pm
As long as you don't use stock retainers and keepers.    MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 6:38am
I can't remember exactly what the seat pressure ended up on the head of the 160 engine in my turbo CA. I kinda think it is near to 60 PSI seat pressure. Then again I run at near 15PSI boost and over 4000RPM. Now with the big two barrel it can breath like it should. I have not noticed any wear in the valve train. I used new OEM stock retainers and keepers. I do use Amziol 15/40 in both of the pulling CAs. This is when I still had the single barrel up draft on. to see how it runs now with the two barrel watch this.   http://youtu.be/GXU6b43E6ro



Edited by PaulB - 17 Jun 2016 at 1:18pm
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 7:36am
WHY? I know guys that run big cubes at or near stock rpm that go the other way drastically, to reduce pressure on the cam. ( cam has notches cut in it to clear the rods) With a good seat, higher spring pressure won't help with anything but wear, unless you are running 3 times the rated rpm or more.
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Ryan59 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 5:20pm
Thank you Paul for the useful information and posting a picture of your turbo set-up. I had been wanting to see how you plumbed the draw-through system, She sure walks that sled LOL.

Well, parts came in yesterday so I made a trip into town to go over what I wanted done to the head. The exhaust seats were ate up a lot worse than pictures show. Before I bought it, it had set outside in the rain, probably for years. Although the exhaust was capped water runs in around the exhaust pipe adapter sleeve at the manifold. The shop where I took the head has a Serti machine, he showed me how deep he would have to cut the worse exhaust seat to clean up the pitting. So we stepped back in his air conditioned office where we could think a little clearer. He knows this tractor and has rebuilt dozens of these heads, he doesn't think I'm doing anything unusual or extreme. He made me a cash deal on hardened exhaust seats installed and 3-angle Serti cut. The intakes seats didn't need a lot of material removed to clean up like the exhausts.

I did ask him about valve springs and showed him the stock and Chevrolet springs. He checked the rate of the chevy spring and said it was a 45lbs rate spring, wouldn't hurt the stock valve train at all. Didn't add anything more to his reply.

All I can do is offer my opinion why I feel this engine would respond positively to higher rate valve springs. I wish Jerry had checked the rate of the new stock spring but it didn't seem important at the time.

First I considered all the weight that the spring has to over-come. Valve, retainer, keeper,  rocker arm, pushrod and lifter. The valve spring has to control the weight of those items to follow the cam lobe profile. I understand we are discussing a low rpm engine but those stock springs look marginal at best for maintaining valve-train control. I'm going to say that 45lbs of seat pressure should be required as an upgrade to seal the valve on the seat for reliable compression. That's not carved in granite though. There are some very knowledgeable engine builders on this forum that may be holding a different opinion.    
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DiyDave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 5:34pm
 [TUBE]http://youtu.be/GXU6b43E6ro[/TUBE]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 8:26pm
Hundreds of thousands of those engines built and you think it needs more valve seat pressure????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 10:44pm
Yes. Manufactures build most things as cheaply as possible. Not everything of course. These tractors were designed to operate in a wide variety of elements across the nation. From Canadian and Alaskan winter cold to Arizona's dry 117 degree heat they expect this weekend. For the largest part of their design, engineers took into consideration farmers working on them out in the pasture or along the side of a country road in the middle of nowhere.

I'm sure at some point over the many years that these tractors have been in service, a valve spring or two has broken and something other than the factory original valve spring(s) were put in and left in there for generations.

I bet there are several members of this forum that have something other than the stock valve springs under their valve covers. I offer you this statement: If the factory built every engine for maximum power output. There would be no need for aftermarket parts. Even airplane engines are not developed for 100% work load.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2016 at 11:27pm
The Engineer(s) who designed the valve train on this engine series(which would include the valve springs) had to meet several criteria before settling in on the final design. Now, I wasn't there, but I imagine I can guess what some of those criteria were. #1. Performance #2. RELIABILITY   #3. cost #4. Serviceability #5. service life. To just decide to increase spring pressures without proper testing of the rest of the components, would automatically create at least one negative...lack of performance. By that I mean, increasing spring pressure on all eight valve springs (when it isn't needed) would certainly not result in an engine HP increase. Quite the contrary...it would create more friction on all parts involved and quite possibly result is less HP/torque produced at the flywheel. How much?? Depends on the increase in spring pressure, but one thing for sure.....it wouldn't cause a gain in HP !! Then, there's the matter of service life. Cold starts with little oil to lube the camshaft lobes and lifter faces, etc, etc. Yes, all of those nasty little details that one change in design specs can come back and create unforeseen problems to the life span of other related parts. You go right on ahead and do what you want to do. But, always remember there were millions of those springs used over the last 70 years that have never caused one second of downtime over millions of hrs of service life AND were often reused time and time again at overhauls and placed back into service, and they still performed well not ever causing a problem..
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Ryan59 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2016 at 7:06pm
Ouch

Edited by Ryan59 - 04 Jul 2016 at 2:35am
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2016 at 10:18pm
The valve spring p/n is 70206879 for the B-C or CA tractor engine. It also is used on the D-14 and D-17 engines. Those are 2,000 RPM factory speed engines. I have used stock valve springs at 3,000 RPM when tractor pulling and have never floated a valve or had a push rod jump out of place. I sure hope you find someone who is knowledgeable about these AC engines to help you figure out valve spring pressures are good enough as-is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2016 at 11:32pm
Originally posted by Ryan59 Ryan59 wrote:

I am aware of how this engine oils and share your concerns. Basically my first question was to inquire from more experienced people if increasing valve spring pressure caused any issues. Gaulding cam lobes or cam bearings etc.

I will maintain the amount of valve spring pressure is marginal on this 125ci engine. It absolutely is enough pressure to close the valves @1500rpm but neither of us has a spring rate spec for the sake of knowledge. At what spring rate pressure would you estimate a loss in horsepower? This is interesting to me because in one aspect I understand why it could cause a power loss, internal friction. However in my personal experience building engines I have seen a spring rate increase, increase horsepower on the engine dyno. But to be fair this was a solid roller cam and the rev limit was kept below 6000rpm. Small engines show (minimal) power loss more easily than large engines do. Single piston OHV engines like Harbor Freights Raptor, which is a China knock-off of the Honda OHV engine. There is a web site dedicated to that little engine. Heavier valve springs are one of the items listed. Of course there would be a You Tube video of a grown man with a Rupp Mini Bike fixing up a Harbor Freight Raptor with aftermarket parts, valve springs being one of the items. Anyway he's a big man so he's not expecting higher revs but rather low-end power to pull his weight.

There is such a thing as a valve trane dyno where the assy is spun up to speed and filmed with a strobe camera to identify valve float or rocker arm studs flexing, spring coil oscillation.

 I wish that I had all the facilities to test these theories of valve spring rates, at what point is not enough spring pressure clear up to the point of a power loss. The 4-cylinder engine that I am most familiar with is a double overhead cam engine. 120lbs of spring seat pressure is common for durability and performance. 
 


Ryan, I see you are new here.  As Dr. Allis mentioned, you should be talking to someone who is very familiar with Allis Chalmers engines (not mini bike or DOHC engines - you are comparing apples and oranges).  Dr. Allis IS one of the people who can tell you straight up what works for these engines.  He has a lifetime of working on them and pulling with them.  I would not question any of his thoughts.  He is the resident expert on this forum.  His opinions and knowledge should be appreciated and not criticized.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Ryan59 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jun 2016 at 12:29am
Sleepy

Edited by Ryan59 - 04 Jul 2016 at 2:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2016 at 9:45am
Ryan I like your forward thinking approach to things, and jumping out of the box to see what is going on. And Doc I appreciate your having confidence in what has worked successfully and sticking to your guns. But I do hope you two don't get to butting heads and the rest of us lose the competitive knowledge we get from these discussions. Sixty years ago now I helped Dad overhaul our little "C" and I guess that set the tome for a lifetime of fascination with mechanical things. At 75 the old body is losing ground with the attrition of old age, but doggone it I ain't giving up easy. I just takes longer. So let us old guys work along with the new and let's see what both of us can learn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2016 at 2:32pm
Approve

Edited by Ryan59 - 04 Jul 2016 at 2:33am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bradley6874 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2016 at 10:46am
Okay Ryan I'll put in my two cents the spring pressures only function is to close the valve in according to the lifter profile on the cam. the valve seat is what seals the combustion chamberincreasing, spring pressure has absolutely nothing to do with sealing the combustion chamber. if valves are not floating or losing contact with the cam you'r just creating more wear as the doctor said!!! exaggeration here but if you put a thousand pounds spring on a seat that doesn't seal it's still never going to seal but now you have a thousand pound hammer hitting the rocker every time the valve opens hope this helps
You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Ryan59 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2016 at 6:04pm
Ermm

Edited by Ryan59 - 04 Jul 2016 at 2:31am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bradley6874 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2016 at 7:26pm
Alright Brian the one thing you have not shared is if you're changing anything else in the valve train . what would justify increasing the stock Springs if you're not changing anything else please explain how this will be a improvement
You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2016 at 7:33pm
Valve spring pressure increase has more to think about than RPMs, when you are dealing with turbo boost pressures. As the valves have to close against that flow pressures also.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2016 at 8:08pm
Ying Yang

Edited by Ryan59 - 04 Jul 2016 at 2:29am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2016 at 12:47am
Change of thought here Ryan, you said you worked at Boeing. Was that in St Louis?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2016 at 6:22pm
No, and there can be no other reason for you to ask that question other than to be-little me.

I do not care where you work, where you are from or what you did or do in life.

It is obvious that we do not understand one another so I bid you a good day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bradley6874 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2016 at 7:27pm
Ryan the way I see it you have made your mind up to do this regardless of what several people have tried to give you reasons not to ,you keep trying to justify this to us it's you tractor fix it the way you want and have a great day
You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mgburchard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2016 at 7:18pm
You will be fine as long as you don't go over 120 lbs on seat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2016 at 7:27pm
I see spanky series 2 has weighed in...  Now you know...
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