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bradytlb1 
Bronze Level
Joined: 11 Jun 2010
Points: 9
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 Topic: WD Inprogress
Posted: 11 Jun 2010 at 5:04pm |
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I recently purchased a WD for $500 and so far I have been able to get it running quite smoothly, by removing the magneto and replacing it with a distributor from a Farmall. All I had to do was fine grind the connection rod to fit the coupler. Biggest issue I have right now is trying to figure out all the controls to start trying to cycle the pto and lift the converted 3 point hitch. Only thing that was missing on the tractor was one of the two lift cylinders and I have picked two of them up at a very good price. I have them installed along with new hoses but as i said I have only been running the tractor for an hour or so each day now that it is running and I have added Rislone to the oil and some water pump lube and fuel system cleaner to make sure it is going to clean up for the first oil changes and such. Can anyone give me some direction on the controls and or any other things I should be doing or looking for before putting this baby to work, she was setting for two years possibly longer before I acquired her.
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DaveKamp
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5816
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Posted: 11 Jun 2010 at 6:26pm |
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Hmmm... well, I wouldn't have done any of that.
Rather than replacing the mag with battery/coil, and pouring chemicals in, I would've just taken the mag over to the local mag guru for a half-hour on the workbench. Once setup right, mags work incredibly well.
I wouldn't think of adding oil or fuel-system cleaners, particularly if it's been setting for a long time- I'd just drained 'em, and added new oil, dumped and cleaned out the tank and sediment bowl, and checked and topped the coolant.
I don't recall seeing any water pump lubrication requirement... any modern 'additives' really don't apply- this engine was designed to use rain, soft, or distilled water as summer coolant, and same with anti-freeze during the winter... and having a low compression ratio, would run on most any gasoline fuel available. Best solution for dirty fuel system, is to yank the tank, sediment bowl, fuel line and carb, scrub 'em out, reassemble, and add good fuel.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5816
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Posted: 11 Jun 2010 at 6:28pm |
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Lever on the left hand sector controls the rear lift. Engine clutch must be engaged (foot off pedal) for hydraulic pump to operate.
PTO is a pull-rod down by base of steering support. depress engine clutch before engaging PTO.
Foot clutch has a dog that will hold the clutch released for hand-starting, but don't leave it held in any longer than necessary, as it's hard on the throwout bearing.
Hand clutch - pull it back to engage the final drive.
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LionelinKY
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Radcliff,KY
Points: 695
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Posted: 11 Jun 2010 at 6:48pm |
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Since you say you have it running, I am assuming you have the ignition and throttle controls down. FYI-the half circle located behind the steering wheel as you sit on the seat is usually referred to as the quadrant. The throttle control lever is on the right side of the quadrant. The lever on the left side of the quadrant controls the hydraulics-up for up and down for down. The lift arms will raise first and then anything hooked to the remote line will raise after that. Near the base of the steering column support should be a rod with a knob on the end. This engages the pto. Push the foot clutch in and pull on the knob thus pulling out on the rod as far as you can to engage pto. As you slowly let out foot clutch, the pto should start spinning. The WD also has a hand clutch which is the large hand lever to the right of the steering wheel. Pulling this back until it locks engages the clutch. Both foot and hand clutch must be engaged for tractor travel in gear. The hand clutch was designed so that one could stop tractor travel but maintain pto power by pushing the hand clutch forward. Pushing in the foot clutch stops both pto and travel. Make sure to thoroughly change all fluids before you really start to work the tractor. HTH and most of all-ENJOY
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bradytlb1
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Joined: 11 Jun 2010
Points: 9
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Posted: 11 Jun 2010 at 6:57pm |
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Thanks guys, this was helpfull!! And I chose the distributor route because the magneto was spider web cracked all to hell and had several chuncks of it missing and the cheapest replacement I found was $350.00 and I got the distributor for $ 75.00. hope that explaind the reasoning.
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Gary in Texas
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Burkburnett, TX
Points: 630
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Posted: 11 Jun 2010 at 9:42pm |
Down load the manual it helps a lot
I am sorry for the incorrect link.
Use the one below.
Edited by Gary in Texas - 12 Jun 2010 at 10:05am
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1247
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Posted: 12 Jun 2010 at 9:38am |
I believe this is the link you wanted:
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Gary in Texas wrote: