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Wd45---starter draws battery down

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Kanemtn View Drop Down
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Joined: 03 May 2016
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kanemtn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Wd45---starter draws battery down
    Posted: 05 May 2016 at 7:48am
First time posting on this awesome site.Getting my Dad's wd45 running again.The tractor will start easily with a good battery,after 10-20 minutes of running showing a positive charge of 18+/-maps,I shut it off.Tractor will not have enough juice to kick starter in,battery is dead.The tractor is converted to 12volt.Does the starter need to be 12 volt also? Any help will be appreciated greatly.Thanks,Dave
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CAL(KS) View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 7:58am
12v will not hurt the starter.  were the leads on the amp meter switched when it was changed from 6v pos ground?  you may actually have a large draw.  i dont see how the starter can be drawing unless its turning while the tractor is running.  are you sure the alternator is charging?  if the amg guage wasnt switched over, it may not be.
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Dnoym N. S. Can. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dnoym N. S. Can. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 8:05am
Q 1 dose it have an alternator ?
Q 2 dose the alternator get hot can you hold
your hand on it ?
Q 3 can it be that the amp gauge
is hook up back ward and it discharging
 don`t think that it`s the started .
starter only get used to start the engine .

   B:-)     Dnoym

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Kanemtn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kanemtn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 8:11am
I cannot say for sure if alternator is charging.When tractor is running it shows positive 18+/-maps.I did notice on one my tries the amp was up to 20+.whatever is causing it, it only takes a short time to run battery down.The amp gauge has not been taken off for a long by the looks of it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 8:20am
Are you sure it is charging at 18 amps? That's excessive after 20 minutes. The battery should be charged back up within a few minutes if you are equipped with an alternator. Was this converted to 12 volts, negative ground, and the ammeter not reversed? That +18 may actually be a -18 amps if the ammeter wasn't reversed.

Edit: Your battery could have a shorted cell too.



Edited by DougS - 05 May 2016 at 8:27am
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 8:37am
Be certain the battery polarity is the same as the alternator. The alternator is generally negative ground, though a few positive ground alternators have been made in the last half century.

If it doesn't have an alternator, make sure the generator has been flashed to get it to build with the proper polarity for the battery. The starter turns the same direction with either polarity so its not a polarity indicator.

There is a simple test for ammeter polarity, turn on lights and ignition without starting the engine. The ammeter has to indicate discharge if its wired right. Then if the alternator output is wired to go to the battery through the ammeter as it should, there should be a charging indication soon as the alternator starts charging. With a 1 wire alternator connection it can take running the engine speed way fast to get the alternator to start charging.

With an alternator the ammeter ought to be rated at 50 or 60 amps, not the 20 or 30 of the tractor original.

Gerald J.
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 9:47am
One other test if the ammeter is connected correctly and the battery is good: Disconnect the starter cable at the starter while the engine is running. Be very careful. Do not short anything to the frame. If the ammeter behaves normally after this it would indicate that your starter switch is not disengaging completely.
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Kanemtn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kanemtn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 10:22am
I want to thank everyone for your help and suggestions.Long story short,Ist I replaced starter switch on starter which my Dad's had on tractor,last fall..it started once with battery.,tractor sat for few days,went to start to haul it home ,battery was dead.Pulled it started right up.brought it home for winter sat parked till now.Started with fresh charged battery for 10-20 minutes then would not turn starter over.Bought rebuilt starter--same thing(2 days ago).Today after reading your replies,I recharged battery,reinstalled starter,--started right up,this time amp read 9 volts,alternator putting out 9 volts.Tractor has started 3 times now seems all ok.Had old starter tested it was shorting out.I think I am just getting all the bugs out--too many different issues at the same time.Thanks again for all your support.I will post updates,Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 10:43am
One thing you should ( must ) do for all old tractors is to TOTALLY rewire them ! Over the decades !  several 'modifications', 'repairs','bodges' WILL have been done. It is always best to rip out every piece of wire and start fresh. Steve at B&B has 'kits' or if you're 'electrically minded', do it yourself, but be sure to follow the ORIGINAL wiring diagram,edited for alternator. It's best to keep the same colours for obvious reasons. done right , it'll outlive you and maybe the kids too !

Jay

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Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 11:12am
9 amps., 9 volts...?  If its an alternator/ battery swap to 12 volts, it should be charging upwards of 14 volts when running, not 9 volts. Sounds like you might still have an issue... 
 When tractor is running , hook up a load to the battery and see if the ammeter goes up or down, or stays the same...  A load, like several headlights ...

 If hooking the lights up, and it goes up, you might be discharging the batteryand ammeter needs turning around, and alternator fixed., If it goes down, then alternator isn't charging enough, if it stays the same, then maybe it is okay.

 A battery that has been dead all winter will take a long while to get back to acting normal sometimes and sometimes never gets back to 'normal'.
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 11:44am
In order to help you out correctly, we first need to know whats on the Tractor that's doing the charging chores. Alternator or Generator? Next thing is how is it wired? One wire, or three wire Alt? Or is it a 12V Generator running through a regulator? Is this Tractor equipped with a Voltmeter or an Ammeter? If Ammeter, whats the sweep? 20/20, 30/30, or 60/60?

The things you can check-

1. Charge up the Battery and do a draw test. If you don't have a draw tester, take it down to the local service station and ask them to draw test the Battery for you. If you have a bad cell, that would cause the dead battery or overcharge problem.

2. Inspect the Battery cables and connections. Make sure the cables are in excellent shape, and the grounding cable to the chassis has a good clean ground. Is it Positive ground or Negative Ground? In most cases, if its an Alternator, it would be Negative ground. Although I've built a few PG Alternators in my 49 years of rebuilding.

3. Inspect the fan belt. Make sure it is tight, so whatever its spinning that's doing the charging chores the belt isn't slipping around the pulley.

As far as the Starter motor is concerned: most 6V Starter motors as long as they are in good condition internally, will handle 12V's okay, BUT running 12V's through 6V field coils can make the Starter engage violently which eventually could lead to cracked, or broken nose cones, internal premature parts failure, or torn up flywheel ring gears.

Find out what the Tractor has exactly, and come on back. Before answering questions, its always good to ask what you have for components and the type of system you have first! If you make a visit to our website, there's plenty to read and learn about 12V conversion systems and the components that make up that system. HTH

Steve@B&B
bb-customcircuits.com
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2016 at 1:20pm
Dave,
 Welcome. The right place to get info on your family tractor! Glad its working better too.
When you get settled in post some pictures of your tractor/s.
Regards,
Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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