Full Flow, Hi-Pressure system for WD-45

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   Is it possible to adapt the oil pump and oil filter system from a later model D-17 to a WD-45 or early D-17?  I can see right off that the gear on the oil pump has to be changed. The line to the filter appears to be fed from the pressure relief plug area on the side of the block.  I guess the original relief valve would be removed since the relief valve is in the pump on the newer system. If it is possible, are the benefits worth the effort? One benefit I can see is a big savings on filters since the newer system uses a standard Ford FL-1A filter.

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Brian G. NY Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2242	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian G. NY Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Full Flow, Hi-Pressure system for WD-45 Posted: 28 Jan 2010 at 10:57am
	Is it possible to adapt the oil pump and oil filter system from a later model D-17 to a WD-45 or early D-17? I can see right off that the gear on the oil pump has to be changed. The line to the filter appears to be fed from the pressure relief plug area on the side of the block. I guess the original relief valve would be removed since the relief valve is in the pump on the newer system. If it is possible, are the benefits worth the effort? One benefit I can see is a big savings on filters since the newer system uses a standard Ford FL-1A filter.

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DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20852	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan 2010 at 12:21pm
	I've done several over the years, mainly on pulling engines. It requires drilling/tapping internal passages of the block to make the oil come out of the hex cap where the regulator now is and clean filtered oil back into the side of the block above it. Easy to do when the engine is apart....not so easy when assembled. You also have to use a newer oil pump with the regulator built into it or add a regulator internally for 30 psi setting.

Brian G. NY Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2242	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian G. NY Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan 2010 at 1:04pm
	Thanks, that was just what the doctor ordered! I'm going to rebuilding a WD-45 engine in the future and I think it would be a good time to update the oiling system.

mlpankey Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580	Post Options Post Reply Quote mlpankey Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan 2010 at 1:31pm
	Dr. Allis how much oil pressure will the early D17 pump build in the later D17 block . no regulator.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20852	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan 2010 at 5:59pm
	Old D17 or newer D17 the internal oil pump gears are the same width/size. The difference is the SPEED which the pump is turned. A different camshaft driving gear and a different oil pump driven gear speeds up the pump to maintain enough volume to have 30-35 psi oil pressure at full throttle with HOT oil. If you try an old D17 oil pump set-up (old cam and driven gear on pump) and you have new crank brgs and cam brgs and you convert to "full-flow", you better use 5W-30 oil and be prepared for high oil pressure when cold!! You will be surprised when everything is tight. I tried it on a WD-45 engine 20 yrs ago and it raised/swelled the full-flow filter right up off of the filter base and pumped oil out on the shop floor. We had to warm it up at an idle with 5W30 until oil pressure would stay under 40 psi at full throttle before pulling it on the track. Next season we installed a regulator internally.

Skyhighballoon(MO) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115	Post Options Post Reply Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan 2010 at 6:29pm
	Dr. Allis - I had my D17 Series IV rebuilt totally about 10 years ago and I have had that EXACT problem ever since. When my cousin was overhauling it, he found the oil pump had a cracked shaft so he pulled another pump out of another used engine he had on hand and put that in instead. First year or two I had that problem when it was cold and attributed it to a worn filter base and cheaper oil filters. I replaced the oil filter base with a new one from AGCO and then it was mostly parked with other issues for a few years and just never got ran when it was cold. I changed to 15W40 oil last spring when it was cool and blew out a gasket. I just though I had done that by tightening down the filter too tight and pinching the gasket. Didn't have a problem during the summer but just this November though I had to switch to 5W-30 when it got down into the 20's when I blew out another oil filter. Swelled it right up and blistered the paint when I was looking right at it. Even after 5w30 oil and the tractor warmed up, the only way I could get the pressure gauge to drop off the peg was to lug it under 500 rpms. And it would only drop a couple letters in NORMAL. I was waiting till spring again to try to figure out what was wrong. So I guess that pump that got put in was missing the regulator? Is that something I can add on if I pull the pan or do I need to find the newer style oil pump with the built in regulator? Mike
	1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20852	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan 2010 at 7:06pm
	A good series 4 gasser will have the gauge pegged all the time.....check pressure at the filter base with a 50 or 60 psi gauge for accuracy.....30-35 psi is what is expected.

Skyhighballoon(MO) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115	Post Options Post Reply Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan 2010 at 8:54pm
	Thanks again Dr. Allis - I had been thinking along those lines. Will do that once it warms up in the spring! Mike
	1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers