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AJ 
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Location: mo
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 Topic: how to free a C engine??
Posted: 27 Apr 2012 at 11:41pm |
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I bought another C about a week ago. I bought it for parts mainly but apon discovery. The engine may be better than I realized. It seems to be "stuck" but had a buddy pull me around the other day and I swore I saw the engine turn just a bit. So we left it set and I pored tranny fluid in the cylinders and it has been sitting for about a week. We going to try to pull it again in a day or two. Anyone have any other ideas on how to free and engine up?
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JoeO(CMO)
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Location: Cent Missouri
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 5:46am |
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You might want to pull the pan and check for a bent rod!
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 6:01am |
Patience and 'fluid'.Got my 57 D-14 unstuck after 30+ years of sitting and just did a C last fall.
0) take valvecover off and see if all is good...then...
1)Pull plugs, fill cylinders with tranny fluid,diesel oil.
2)Put wrench on crankshaft pulley and try to just turn
3)If it doesn't move ,wait until tomorrow.
repeat 1-2-3 until it moves a bit
then repeat 1-2-3 but move it a bit more(say 5-10 degrees at a time) until it goes round and round
Be sure to ALWAYS topup the cylinders every day.
The key is lotsa fluid and patience! I'm 3 for 3 doing it this way,hopefully your's will be purring in 2 weeks !!
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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B26240
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 7:22am |
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Jay has a very important tip r.e. taking off the valve cover. If there is a stuck valve and you turn it you will bend a pushrod! Another way to turn engin is to take off the stater and use a bar on the flywheel teeth. As Jay said don't be in a rush.
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CAL(KS)
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 7:24am |
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i second the bar in the ring gear idea. worked for me in the past. also i wouldnt pull it, things can happen fast
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Orange Blood
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 7:42am |
I always hate to do this, but here is what I believe to be a better option. It takes 15 minutes to pull the head on these things. A complete head gasket set is around 50 bucks. Pull the head and "SEE" what you are up against. These things are stuck for a reason, and that reason is corrosion of one sort or another. Take a look and see how bad it is. More than likely you will need to lightly hone the walls of the cylinders that are down, and then when they come up hone the other two. All the oil and ring gear ideas are spot on, and you should use them, but you should plan on taking the head off, otherwise, that two-forty weeks of patience will be all for not, when you finally get it running, and you score the heck out of the cylinder walls, with all the crap in the rings, or you never get it running, because the compression is so bad. I hear many stories like above, it took two weeks, and I had it running, some engines are very mildly stuck, and this method can work great, but the vast majority of them, are heavily deposited with corrosion (rust), and or a valve was open, and water damage is extensive in one hole. As an FYI, what is really stuck is not the piston, but the rings stuck to the liner or the rings can't move past the corrosion on the liner. The rings are typically also filled with crap, and the oil down the plug hole, cant remove the crap around the rings, nor will running it after you get it unstuck.
So bottom line, if you take the head off, you know what you are up against, if the cylinders are full of crap, then you will have to pull the pistons, to clean everything up. If they are lightly stuck, then best case you are out 50ish bucks, and some time, but you KNOW what shape your engine is in.
Sorry for the rant guys, it's just my thinking. |
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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GregLawlerMinn
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 7:45am |
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Yep. Patience, Persistance, and Panther Pi$$. I like a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF; shake well and immediately fill each cylinder from the spark plug hole. I have found that placing the engine in High gear and "rocking it" from a back tire a few times a day works.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 7:48am |
OB's right...especially if the tractor was without a muffler or woodpecker !! Mine were barn stored so no rain got in, just the 'oil film' drained away....
Be real careful prying on the ring gear though, chipping a tooth is bad news !!
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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DSeries4
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 10:01am |
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If your buddy pulled it to see if the engine turns, it may definitely be a parts tractor now. Best thing to do is take off the head and see how much rust there is in the cylinders. Mine was jammed solid, but soaked it for several months. After that, I was able to remove all of the internals without breaking anything.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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LoggerLee
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 10:58am |
I guess I've been lucky, I just spray PB blaster in the sparkplug holes and rock the engine back and forth (easier if the engine is in the tractor, just put it in high gear and rock it gently) if you are sliding it around in high gear you are going to break something, just a little this way and a little that.
Mine all run fine.
I fill the cylinders up with WD40 after its broke loose and turn it over (with a hand crank or nearly dead battery) to get all that crap out of it, sometimes two or three times, once its cleaned out enough then put plugs back and start it.
Taking the head off ain't a bad idea...but I've never done it. If there is a bunch of rust in the valve train then it probably needs rebuilt anyway..
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 11:50am |
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DONT YANK IT AGAIN, GREAT WAY TO RUIN YOUR ENGINE. DO ALL OF THE ABOVE MENTIONED, EXCEPT RESPECTFULLY, ID STAY AWAY FROM PRYING ON THE RING GEAR. PUT IT IN HIGH ON A BIT OF A HILL AND ROCK IT. IM 3 FOR 3 DOING THIS, AND AS MENTIONED, PULL THE HEAD, CLEAN THE CYLS WITH FINE EMERY AND DIESEL. YOUR VALVES ARE LIKELY STUCK. TREV.
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Orange Blood
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 1:55pm |
 LoggerLee wrote:
I guess I've been lucky, I just spray PB blaster in the sparkplug holes and rock the engine back and forth (easier if the engine is in the tractor, just put it in high gear and rock it gently) if you are sliding it around in high gear you are going to break something, just a little this way and a little that.
Mine all run fine.
I fill the cylinders up with WD40 after its broke loose and turn it over (with a hand crank or nearly dead battery) to get all that crap out of it, sometimes two or three times, once its cleaned out enough then put plugs back and start it.
Taking the head off ain't a bad idea...but I've never done it. If there is a bunch of rust in the valve train then it probably needs rebuilt anyway.. |
I know what I say sounds harsh to you guys that did it differently, I am surely not trying to beat you down. For the most part since these tractors rarely if ever really get put to the hard use they were designed for, not cleaning out the rings doesn't affect the parade and light farm use tractors. I was not implying that you can't get the oil and crud out that sits on top of the piston, but rather the caked on, rusted on crud that sticks in around, and behind the rings, it's just not going to come out, and all it will do is act like sand paper, as the engine runs. The good news is these engines are so overbuilt, they can handle a lot of wear before they finally quit.
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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AJ
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 6:03pm |
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got engines for you now I need to find a distributor setup for this engine. anybody have one that they want to sell?
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Can't fix stupid
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 6:17pm |
Too bad you're not closer to the boarder...I've got a row crop C that I would part with...
sigh...
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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AJ
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Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 8:52pm |
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How much?
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Can't fix stupid
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AJ
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Posted: 29 Apr 2012 at 10:26pm |
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Ok, I borrowed some parts to see if I could get her running. Engine is free and we did get it to fire up. Engine had been sitting for about 18 years and runs pretty good. Now just need to find a decent carburator, distributer assembly, and a radiator. If anyone has any of these parts.they would sell cheap let me know please. I do have a few parts that are for a C that I would be willing to trade. Thanks
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Can't fix stupid
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CAdon
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Posted: 29 Apr 2012 at 10:35pm |
hey OB & others - i'm new to tractors but not new to machines. $50 + time to pull head sounds like good insurance to me. i have regetted oh so many "short cuts". a doctor's first rule is "do no harm". not a bad approach for mechanics as well... (standard IMHO disclaimer here).
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52 CA, 41 B and a little B1 oh, yeah... and an 8N ford snuck in there, too.
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 29 Apr 2012 at 10:37pm |
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Use some SeaFoam in the gas and crankcase, congradts on getting it running, Trev.
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AJ
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Posted: 29 Apr 2012 at 10:44pm |
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Thanks for everyone's help and advice. She is a runner I think. She kicked over a couple times and then fired up and almost ran off with me. Lol. I think she may run better than my other C I have. But thinking of making a pulling tractor out of it. I don't know yet.
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Can't fix stupid
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