D17 piston and sleeve replacement?

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   This is a series III with a gas 226 engine.  It smokes alot, and uses about a quart of oil every 30 minutes.  I had the head rebuilt with new valves, guides and seals.  It still smokes.  Now I want to try replacing at least the piston rings or more likely replacing the pistons/sleeves with an overbore set.  

My problem is getting the oil pan off.  There is part of the power steering system that appears to be blocking access to one of the pan bolts on the front right, and it looks like the steering shaft is going to block removal of the pan on the left.  

Do I need to remove the front wheel and steering assembly in order to remove the pan?  It's a wide front.  I've tried hammering out the roll pin that holds a u-joint in place on the steering shafts, but it won't budge.

Can anyone give me some tips, procedure or advice on removing the oil pan?  I have the I&T manual for this.  It basically says to remove the oil pan to gain access to remove the pistons, but doesn't really explain what all needs to be done in order to remove the oil pan.

Thanks for your help.

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paulinkansas Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 30 Nov 2009 Location: Kansas Points: 45	Post Options Post Reply Quote paulinkansas Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: D17 piston and sleeve replacement? Posted: 30 Nov 2009 at 11:48am
	This is a series III with a gas 226 engine. It smokes alot, and uses about a quart of oil every 30 minutes. I had the head rebuilt with new valves, guides and seals. It still smokes. Now I want to try replacing at least the piston rings or more likely replacing the pistons/sleeves with an overbore set. My problem is getting the oil pan off. There is part of the power steering system that appears to be blocking access to one of the pan bolts on the front right, and it looks like the steering shaft is going to block removal of the pan on the left. Do I need to remove the front wheel and steering assembly in order to remove the pan? It's a wide front. I've tried hammering out the roll pin that holds a u-joint in place on the steering shafts, but it won't budge. Can anyone give me some tips, procedure or advice on removing the oil pan? I have the I&T manual for this. It basically says to remove the oil pan to gain access to remove the pistons, but doesn't really explain what all needs to be done in order to remove the oil pan. Thanks for your help.

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Chris/CT Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939	Post Options Post Reply Quote Chris/CT Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Nov 2009 at 7:06pm
	Remove engine from tractor.

kev/ont Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Castleton Ont Points: 282	Post Options Post Reply Quote kev/ont Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Nov 2009 at 7:14pm
	I would have to agree with chris on this, Removing the engine from the tractor will allow you to do alot better job of prepping the block for rebuilding. It sounds to me like you have a broken skirt or something of a similar nature for you to be going through a quart in a half hour.

TexasAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Texas Points: 396	Post Options Post Reply Quote TexasAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2009 at 8:03am
	Pull the engine. Pretty easy job on a D-17.

Skyhighballoon(MO) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115	Post Options Post Reply Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2009 at 8:23am
	Paul - it can be done. I've done exactly what you are doing on both a Series III and a Series IV D17 for my dad. Unfortunately, it was about 25 years ago so I don't remember the specifics on the problems you mention. You might need a specialty wrench to get the tight fit bolts or something but yes it can be done without removing the engine or the steering shaft. However, as everyone as said, taking the engine out isn't that bad a job on a D17. Mike
	1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers

CTuckerNWIL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823	Post Options Post Reply Quote CTuckerNWIL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2009 at 10:41am
	If the valves and guides were wore out and the rings and pistons and possibly sleeves wore out, the crankshaft will more than likely need ground and new bearings. I would say pull the engine and do it all.
	http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Kipn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Tewksbury, Ma Points: 800	Post Options Post Reply Quote Kipn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2009 at 11:14am
	You have made the top of the motor to strong for the bottom of the motor. To much compression for the rings and to hard on the bearings now. Replace them also and as said, make sure crankis right. They're usually not. Got mine turned and sized for $200.

Brian Jasper co. Ia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2009 at 11:53am
	The shop manual says the ft pedestal has to come off to get the pan off in the tractor. Like the others have said, better to just pull the engine and go through it. Hot tanking and shot blasting the block gets all of the crud and rust out of it. You'll never be sorry you did it 100%.
	"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Creek Jenkins Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Northern Minn Points: 812	Post Options Post Reply Quote Creek Jenkins Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2009 at 10:13pm
	I just did an in-frame o/haul on my Series I. I wish I would have pulled the engine, it would have been easier. cheers, Creek

roosky01 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 371	Post Options Post Reply Quote roosky01 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2009 at 10:55pm
	Split tractor, removed and re-installed engine in a D17 twice in one day. Completely..... Don't ask....LOL!
	Government always finds a need for whatever money it gets. Ronald Reagan

D-17_Dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990	Post Options Post Reply Quote D-17_Dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Dec 2009 at 12:26am
	When you separate the front end from the side plates, the star shaped coupling will slide apart. No real need to remove the steering cross unless the joint is worn out and needs replacing.However, if youdo remove the role pin you'll need to strike it with a solid hit. Do this by placing a hard wooden block under the joint with enough clearance for the role pin. This wedge will keep the shaft and joint from "running away" from the blow. Get a good heavy hammer. That pin has been in there a long time and will need some coaxing to get started. The pin should have at least one side flush with the joint. Use the punch on this side so the blow doesn't flare out the head of the pin. If you don't have a flush side I;d grind one side flush if the first couple of blows doesn't move it. Once it starts it should come out pretty easy. If your depending on the tractor for regular duty then splurge and remove it and give it the whole treatment. it'll then be good for another 25+ years under normal use. This may mean a combination of most of the above. Turn the crank if needed, maybe replacing the cam, a complete high compresion piston/sleeve kit, oil pump, carb kit, water pump and new hoses, plugs and wires and maybe an electronic ignition. Good time to check the clutch out, and fix any other leaks arount the tractor. Might even be time for a little paint. WOW, look at that sharp looking and running tractor now!